Hi All - First off, does anyone have a PDF copy of the instructions for replacing a water pump on an XJR? I'm would guess it's similar to the normal instructions just with an extra step for the supercharger pulley ...

I could also use some help diagnosing a problem (which I desperately hope is just a bad water pump):
1) Last week I noticed the heater on my 2000 XJR was working intermittently. As a first step and because it was time, I flushed the cooling system with distilled water over the weekend. The heat seemed to work fine after the flush.
2) Several hours after a test drive, I went to check the coolant level and noticed that it was hot. I didn't think much of it at the time, but I'm wondering now if the pump wasn't on the way out ...
2) Last night I was out for a joy ride when she started idling very rough. Before I could get her home, the message center displayed "Performance Limited" which I assumed to mean misfires. At higher RPMs the car drove OK, despite the obvious problems, but I was trying to take it easy and panicing to get home. At that point I wasn't smelling any radiator fluid and the car never overheated (according to the gauge).
3) I made it home and began to smell burnt antifreeze. The exhaust was coming out in billowy white puffs, but I shut it down before getting a good whiff.
4) It was dark and I could not see any obvious leaks. There does appear to be some seepage along the front of the motor, but I can't be certain where it's coming from until I get her into the garage or find some daylight.
5) After letting the car cool down for some time I tried turning it over to see if I could find a leak. It seemed like it didn't want to crank. I am hoping this could be a sign of a seized pump.
6) One of the hoses near the supercharger pulley is blown and had sprayed antifreeze everywhere, but it was definitely not blown when I first pulled over to inspect the rough idle.

I'm terrified to get in there and find a blown head gasket ... hopefully I'm just being paranoid.

 

How long have you owned this car? do you know the maintenance history? miles?


The early Jaguar V8's did have water pump problems. The pumps had plastic vanes -- the vanes became brittle over time and broke off decreasing the water pump output -- often to almost nothing. Jaguar updated the pump twice -- the final pumps are OK. Your car I would think had the second generation of pump installed - they also fail.

The heater uses an electric pump as well as electric valves to control the flow - both can fail and cause problems -- but they both seem to be quite reliable.


Unfortunately -- the white smoke is not good. I fear you overheated the engine and now have a head gasket problem.

 

Nope. Even if the pump was seized solid, the belt would just slip.

 

Never trust the gauge - it does not show real and punctual information! Reading about what happened to you it seems like you have overheated the car.

After you arrived at home did you checked the coolant level?

 

sounds ominous - white smoke.

What does the back of the oil cap look like? a milky grey ring? mayonnaise on the cams?

If it runs, I'd do a sniff test and compression test.

Sounds like you've bigger problems than a water pump now.

 

If you mean that the starter actually tries to turn the motor over, but it does not:

Sounds like hydrolock. Water gets in the cylinders and being incompressible, the engine cannot turn over.

If you take the plugs out and it cranks, and water spews out of the sparkplug holes ... it is confirmed. Then you would be looking at the source of the water. Usually the head gasket.

 

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I've not had a chance to inspect the damage just yet, but I will follow up as soon as I have more info. The misfires and smoke seem ominous indeed ...

@yeldogt: In response to your question, I bought the car several months ago with about 110k on the clock. I'm technically the 3rd owner, but the 2nd had the car only a few months before deciding it was too much for him. The original owner kept very detailed records up to the date he sold it, so I have a very clear history of the work that's been done. Up until now, the car has driven like new, responsive, strong, and no signs of any sort to make me worry about the drivetrain.

@plums: Plugs were last on the list of maintenance items I had planned to do, so I'll be optimistic and just remember I had planned to be in there anyways

 

Yep. Blown head gasket. I got the plugs out and turned her over, it was like a geyser of antifreeze from the passenger side bank!

I'm scouring the forums now for any advice on the repair, but if anyone could point me to tips I'd be greatly obliged. While I'm in there I plan to:

• Check and replace the tensioners if needed
• Replace the water pump
• Replace the thermostat
• Renew worn hoses

Anything else I should consider replacing? Also, if anyone has a list of tools needed for the repair I'd appreciate it. I don't have the JTIS loaded yet, but hopefully it has a list, too. I've done this repair on an XJ6 but I'm aware this is an entirely different beast ...

Oh, and Happy Thanksgiving! Didn't expect mine to start out so greasy

 

Oh well, if you're planning on doing the timing while in there, you'll need to loan or buy the tools - something like these,
JAGUAR/ RANGE ROVER AJ V8 ENGINE TIMING TOOLS, Buy/Rent | eBay
Also a crank damper pulley puller to get the front timing cover off to remove the cylinder head.
New gaskets, and head bolts - the bolts I use range rover 2006 s/c as they're the same engine essentially and about a quarter of the price.
Looking on here, you'll find the ford part numbers for timing chain tensioners, again a bit cheaper than Jag, but the same parts.
The time is in the stripping down and rebuild. If the engine has not been down before, and at it's original torques, it shouldn't be too big an issue. Just take your time.
This forum and its members will get you back on the road.

 

Thanks for the input, Sean, that was very helpful. I had found a set of tools to rent but had overlooked the crank pulley tool.

I've been looking all over for any instructions on removing the cylinder heads, but I've not had any luck. The JTIS had useful info on getting the supercharger out but literally nothing covering the heads and cam alignment.

Could anyone point me in the right direction?

 

JTIS has a very detailed step-by-step guide on removing and installing cylinder heads.
Always go the first year of production for a step-by-step. Later years you will just get any info on changes to procedures or updated methods.

Go to JTIS XJ Sedan Range and choose 1998MY.
For info on the different VVT choose 1999 NA engine.

Your car does not have VVT so you can ignore most of that info on setting the intake cam VVT.

bob gauff

 

Bob! A thousand thanks! I found the instructions, which is a great relief moving forward.

I've found the car has the plastic tensioners, which will be replaced. Disregarding the cost, any opinions on renewing the timing chains, primary tensioners, guides, etc while I'm in there? Seems like now would be the time ...

I'll be looking for the following if anyone has suggestions about suppliers they could send via PM:

• XJR Complete Head Gasket Set
• Timing Chains/Tensioners Kit

Also, anyone in the RTP area of NC? Been a minute since I had heads serviced and the guy I used has retired, so I'll also be searching for a machine shop.

 

The 2000 - 2002 Lincoln LS/Ford Thunderbird used the AJ27 engine in a 3.9L form and we know some parts swap. The tensioners and valve cover gaskets are commonly used at half the price, or less, of Jaguar parts. For instance the $120 Jaguar valve cover gaskets are available from FelPro at your local auto parts stores for less than $40. Same for the one time use head bolts at 1/3 the cost of Jaguar boxed. You efforts would appear to be a great opportunity to expand the list of interchangeable parts. The question of head gaskets have come up but no one has confirmed that they are the same. In fact, FelPro has a complete upper gasket set.

Here is a list of the upper tensioner part numbers to get you started:

Ford PN 2W9Z6K254BA Right Secondary metal bodied Tensioner (1 required)
Ford PN 2W9Z6K254CA Left Secondary metal bodied Tensioner (1 required)
Ford PN W500301S300 Bolt (4 required)

 

Thank you, Test Point. I have everything ordered and on the way except for a couple special tools. I am taking photos of the entire process and will post a full documented procedure once I'm done.

Guess this thread about a water pump is kinda misleading at this point ...

 

You aked for pointers- I will offer some as I remember them- (all in all I have done my best to forget the head gasket saga!)-
First, get a good 6 point socket to remove the head bolts. Do not round any off! And yes, I hate to sayI know this from experience.

Removing the center bolt in the damper/ front pulley- The crank lock tool should not be used to hold the crank while breaking the bolt loose. Use a big strap wrench and pipe handle extender to hold the OD of the pulley while breakng the bolt. Oh, suprisingly (at least to me) the bolt holes in the damper used to attach a flange puller are SAE, not metric, threads- 3/8 as I recall. I did not have to learn this on my own as motorcarman gave good advice

Most new head bolts actually use a Torx-Plus size 65 drivers, but I have been told that a Torx, or even a hex driver will work. I found the corrct driver at tooltopia.com, I think.

If you need head work, I recommend Dover here in Atlanta- I am not sure they work on Jags, but they have taken care of everything else I have taken there with exceptional service and they have been in the same place forever- at since 1977 when I first used them to repair a cracked block. and I definitey recommend hiring out a head rebiold. The keepers are tiny on this engine and a REAL PITA to get back on- That one I know from experience.
More tips later as I relive the painful experience in my mind!

 

Thanks for the tips, Spark. I broke a headbolt down at the threads on my VDP a few years back, so I will most certainly follow your advice. Like you, I've done my best to shut that experience out of my mind ...

So far everything has gone smoothly. And I found one of the timing chain guides was nearly cracked through (I will try to attach a photo). I think I'm quite lucky the head gasket went before that thing snapped in two!