Gents, just took ownership via online auction of a 2002 XJ8 with blown head gasket or gaskets. I started tearing into it and noticed someone had been there before. When I got to removing the exhaust manifold from the downpipe I saw a 2003 marked on the left head (definitely someone there before). My question is move on with the head removal or be concerned with a cracked block and just go for an engine replacement? I have found a 2003 4.0 with about 140K on the clock for $550? How much work is it to take out the engine alone verses engine and tranny? I have a lift so no crawling under is necessary.

 

Having been behind an unknown amount of a previous owner/mechanic/oil change technician's efforts on another car, I would suggest the swap with a known running engine is a better solution . . . especially if you can get it for $550. While I have yet to pull my engine/transmission to clean it I have read that that is the way to do it.

 

Pull em both. That way you can check the condition of the transmission A-drum at the same time. Plus you will spend about the same amount of time contorting and trying to undo bolts on the tranny as you would just pulling them together.

 

My personal experience, my engine had a blown head gasket which hydro locked the motor. To make it short, it was 2k for a factory reman with 1k in shop installation. So I got the reman and pulled the engine myself. If your not up to the task, 3 to 4k after all said and done to have a shop do it. Dealership not an option I say

 

KMM597 Where did you get a factory re-manufactured motor for $2K? I will pull that sucker in a minute if I can get a reman motor for $2K - wow what a deal - thanks!!!!

 

I just went through this on a 98 VDP. Coventry West in Atlanta sold me a used 97 XK8
motor with 56,000 miles on it for $2,650. The upper tensioners were done and some
gaskets replaced. Pull the engine and transmission out together. This is a GREAT time to replace every heater hose and radiator hose so it does not happen again. Coventry West had a kit for $350 with all the hoses. They have aftermarket engine mounts as well. Welsh Enterprises has the improved thermostat housing for under $60. Take advantage of how easy it is to fix things without an engine in the way. Good luck.

 

All, thanks for all the advice, I started to pull the heads and found some idiot put a heli-coil in the center head bolt up top of the block. Not down in the block where the threads are, that bolt was hand tight obviously where the head gasket had given way. When I got the head off I found the head had dropped a valve seat and totally screwed the head. At that point I pulled the engine and transmission, what an easy job with instructions from this website it came right out. Well I bought a motor and transmission from a guy in Ky, leaving me an additional transmission. I found a 98 with 118K miles on CL (quite by accident) with a bad tranny that the guy just wanted out of and bought it for $700. I parked that one until it warms up. I am in the process of moving parts from one engine to the other and replacing heater hoses, fuel lines, vacuum lines etc BTW the engine and tranny I bought was a 2003 so it has the improved chain tensioners. Should have the engine back in in the next couple of days. I have really enjoyed this project, I have a lift in a barn which makes life easier as I get older. I will update when I get it in and (cross fingers) started. I think I will rebuild the old 2002 engine with the bad head and Heli-coil and hold on to it for the 98 for when the Nikasil gives out. I think I am addicted to these cars.

 

I think you will have a problem with the ECU/TCM communicating with the 03 units if it is a 4.2 with 6 speed.
As to the nikasil giving out, if it has good compression now it will probably outlast your other engine. The two things that destroy nikasil are high sulfur fuel, a thing of the past, and overheating.

 

The engine is a 4.0 '03 I have it back in it is getting fuel but not starting - where to start? Only code is a P1000 and the engine is in failsafe mode.

 

Is the MIL light on?
Although some chassis codes (which you can't see) will set the MIL you should have a Pxxxx code.
Is your reader reliable ?
Are you getting a spark?

 

mil on no spark

 

Ok- shoot over some info:

1. What are the compression readings
2. Have you looked over every connection in the engine compartment?
3. Have you disconnected the battery and touched the leads to "reset"
4. Did you move over the crankshaft position sensor from the old engine, or trust the new one?
5. Check the inertia switch
6. What codes does your reader come up with?

 

Compression is good all cylinders, triple checked connections moved the crank position sensor. Will try the reset cable touch, what and where is the inertia sensor?

 

Inertia switch- behind the kick panel by the door on the passenger front side. You can feel the push button from the top.

Codes?

 

There must be codes to set the MIL
Try another reader.

 

Problem was with the transmission linkage not being in park all the way, allowing it to turn over but not fire. fixed the linkage and it fired - thanks for all the help!

 

NICE! Congratulations, and thanks for following up with the resolution-

 

Glad you sorted it - doesn't explain the MIL though.