I have a 2002 jaguar Vanden Plas. I had the fuel pump replaced but when reassembled gas is leaking into the trunk and under the rear seat. I’ve drained the tank and dried everything out but working at home I have no access to where the two fuel lines connected to the tank. I’m sure the issue was right there. Is there a way to cut a hole in the floorboard of the car Under the rear seat to gain access to where these lines connect into the gas tank. From there I think I can correct the leak in the worst case use a material like JB weld to coat the lines and the connections into the tank to stop the leak. Has anyone ever done work like this where you cut a hole in the floorboard to access these two lines.

 

If you don't have the Workshop Manual, watch this video:

 

 

The fuel lines were likely NOT removed and the proper procedure was NOT followed.

You now see the results by people that just use shortcuts.

I believe that the fuel lines are NLA and you will need to source used pipes.

good luck.

bob

 

 

Some on the forum have had success with "springing" the fuel lines out far enough to access the pump. So, that might have seemed like the way to go. Mine didn't have anywhere near enough rubber tubing in the line-only one had any-to pull the tank out without badly straining the metal lines and their connectors.
But, the safe way of doing the change--and the real, surefire "shortcut"--starts with disconnecting (and preserving) the lines as shown in the factory manual and in related threads here, including one started 3-10-18 labeled "Fuel Lines". The sad part for your situation is that from here on to the successful completion, the easiest part of the repair job you now face will be the removal of the lines that's needed after all. BTW, at the end of the video noted above are other videos that include same need on an XK8 that has the same line access problems. The shown method of line release uses a fabricated QD release tool design that is a standard with Jag veterans like Highhorse and probably many others. As you get the QDs released, be patient with pulling them out. The lines are likely now sprung and will be binding like mad,even when the tank is slid back into the installed position.
And last, after all the line and fitting replacements you'll need, an epoxy patch has no place in liquid systems--on the road or at home. If you can safely get home with no fire in the event that it breaks, then go ahead.

Lots of work ahead; hope it goes alright and gets you back to the fun part of having a Jag!!

 

A jack and stands, someone with thin arms and a set of QD line tools like these below would make things a lot easier for you.
Using an epoxy on your PETROL tank is something I would NOT advise.
I just hope it's the lines and not the tank connectors that are damaged, for your sake.
To answer your original question, no access to the tank via the floor as the rear suspension unit sits in the way, unless you want to cut a bit out of that also.

 

Sorry all interested readers. The video I referred to above is not always there in the follow-on menu. Simply click on this for the XK8 line removal, supply/return lines are similar to these M/Y XJs:


Chow,
Cyu B

 

I'm new but I'll throw in my two cents
I just did a fuel pump on mine and to get to the lines above the differential I just dropped the rear subframe about 5 inches by undoing the 10 bolts holding the subframe in but no others. It then will drop just enough to get to the lines .

 

 

Looks like more work than I would ever consider!!! (I hate working on the interior of cars)

I just put the car on a lift and disconnect the lines!!!

Glad you got it sorted!!

bob

 

 

Did mine on the ground with 2 jack stands
no lift needed
the way I did it was quite easy as long as rust isn't a big factor.

 

I'm facing this now, or the local shop wants $500 to put my pump in (labor only). Dropping the subframe sounds like the way to go if you don't want all the under car fiddling with the lines. Was getting the subframe lined back up fairly straight forward? No alignment issues? Does dropping it down make the lines really easy to disconnect? Was it worth it to drop the subframe, or if you had to do it again, would you just leave it in and deal with the lines?

 

If I did it again I'd drop the sub frame again.
There are two alignment pins at the front mounts so going back up was fine.
alignment seems fine but sould probably be checked.
my alignment is probably off any way 124k miles and was in storage for 9 years.
As I cautioned before if you have heavy rust there could be problems.

 

Somewhere back in my post history is a custom tool I made (with fabrication instructions) for removing the lines. I found that the standard quick release tools were just a bit shorter then desired. Its totally doable to remove the lines in your driveway without dropping the frame, it just takes patience and the right tools

 

Those holes in the back seat area look like they were made with a cutting disc in a grinder. Right? Wrong? Weren't there gobs-o-sparks? Seems like that would be a good way to die in an explosion.

 

A few points, first of all, I ran the car until the gas tank was empty, even then, I started it multiple time and it would run a few minutes and stop. It was not until it would not start at all that I determined the tank was empty as much as I could get it. Second, I opened the trunk and doors and let the car air out and dry out for over 2 days before trying any cutting. In regards to the actual cutting, I did first use a grinding wheel but only to make about a 3 inch straight lind cut, from there, I changed to a sawsall with a small blade and cut the blance to reduce the chance of sparks. The entire process worked great with no issues.