Ok, we got this 2000 with blown secondary chain

Fixed it replaced all

Drove the hell out of it to break it, couldnt, so we put new tires on it had it aligned drive it around 1,000 miles no problem

Was low on gas so I pulled into 711 (has ethanol, all do here) put in 20 bucks 93 octane (cough) and left. Drove about 18 miles in rush hour traffic, two trips. 3 miles from home second trip light turns green accelerate away from pack but not full throttle at all, radio up couldnt hear anything if there was anything.

RP comes on, car drives ok for 1/2 mile, pull into left turn lane, its idling bad, shaking. On attempting to move forward really shakes for about 5 seconds until it gets above 10 mph, no power, crawled home 25 then 40 mph, for about 1.5 miles

1/2 mile from home it just cuts off, says STALLED

coasted into driveway.

On attaching my code reader says MIL is OFF, and RP is not being displayed, got the codes then cleared them.

Cranked engine, cranks fine, but now it wont even attempt to catch and start, just cranks.

When we first repaired the chains we had a hell of a time getting it started first time, fuel issue, we used starting fluid and cranked it a lot, and finally had to keep the starter engaged while it ran for 30 seconds and then all was well.

Has always fired right up after that initial start, until now.

I think when it went into RP it was cause of knock detection cause of crappy gas, but I think there is another issue with regards to getting it to restart that is tied to the fact the it only ran 2 miles in RP and then cut off like it was fuel starved, and no wont even catch as if it has no fuel.

Is there a fuel reset on these, for the pump, i havent looked for a place to check fuel pressure yet, have to set up some lights

In any case I think Im gonna have to suck that 711 crap fuel out, get some starting fluid, and crank her til she catches like the first time.

Here are the codes, this engine has been code free for a few thousand miles now, since we got it started post chain repair.

*************************************
******* 12/19/2011 5:27:54 PM *******
*************************************
STORED CODES

PENDING CODES
P0307 17
P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P1316 17
P1316 Injector Circuit / IDM Codes Detected (Ford)
P1316 Misfire Excessive Emissions Fault (LandRover)
P1316 Injector Circuit / IDM Codes Detected (Jaguar)
P0351 17
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354 17
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0356 17
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0357 17
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P1111 17
P1111 System Pass (Ford)
P1111 Engine Coolant Temperature Radiator Outlet Sensor Low Input (BMW)
P1111 Intake Air Temperature Sensor circuit intermittent high voltage (GM)
P1111 Atmospheric pressure sensor high input (Subaru)
P1111 If a pending code = system tests passed (Jaguar)
P1111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage (Jaguar)
P1111 O2 Control (Bank 1) System too lean (Audi)
P1367 17
P1367 Ignition Spare (Ford)
P1367 Ign ctrl cyl #7 not toggling, or low voltage (GM)
P1367 No Signal In TDC 2 Sensor Circuit (Honda)
P1367 Ignition Spare (Jaguar)
P1367 Cyl. 5, ignition circuit Open Circuit (Audi)

 

Obviously I have not heard the car run, BUT I am highly sceptical that 7-11 gas is your root cause. These cars are just not that sensitive.- It might throw a RP if you pushed it hard with low octane, but I think you ar ein denial to hope changing the gas will fix anything. If you have water in your gas, that is quite possibly the problem, and can be found by letting some gas out the pressure test port and looking at it through a clear container.
Your brand references next to the codes and the multiple "causes" indicates you are obviously not following the JTIS list. You need to get it and ignore whatever other references you are using.
I would say you some electrical problem that affects the entire ecu, like a bad battery connection or ground strap. The ignition primary codes do not sdem like they could come from engine fueling. Check the power posts under the dash on the firewall and especiallyt check the engine ground strap. Check the main harness connector- maybe it got loosened during the timing chain work.
Good luck.

 

OK, tried some starting fluid no dice, doesnt try to catch at all just cranks.

" If you have water in your gas, that is quite possibly the problem, and can be found by letting some gas out the pressure test port and looking at it through a clear container."

Well that could happen from the 711 gas right ?

The car was on fumes, put in 5 gallons from 711, went 18 miles then out of the blue this happens

Prior to this, car had been driven a lot for 3 weeks no issues.

The ONLY thing that changed that day, was the 711 gas, prior to that was shell 93 only

Anyhow, acts like it doesnt even have a spark now, Im gonna open it up and check it

I popped the valve on the fuel rail and fuel came out, didnt test for water yet

Did a hard reset on the computer as well neg cable to ground

Assuming it has water in fuel, and the computer is hard reset, why wont it even attempt to catch with starting fluid sprayed straight into the metal manifold passed the butterfly.

"our brand references next to the codes and the multiple "causes" indicates you are obviously not following the JTIS list."

Those come straight out of the obdcom and i post it here as it reports them so others here that are familiar with the codes can interpret based on their knowledge rather than me looking at a list and not knowing more than I do know, kind of the purpose for a group forum.

"I would say you some electrical problem that affects the entire ecu, like a bad battery connection or ground strap."

Perhaps, but none of these wires were touched during the chain replacement and again ,the only thing that changed was putting 711 gas in the car and then out of the blew major issues and dead.

One of the codes even references contaminated fuel

 

ok tested engine has no spark at all

So whats the first most common thing to check if none of these coils is firing, no way they are all bad

 

P0307 - Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P1316 - Misfire excess emission - Refer to P1313 Possible Causes
P1313 - Misfire rate catalyst damage A bank (1)
NOTE: This DTC will flag only when accompanied by an individual cylinder misfire DTC:
P0300 – P0308.
Possible Causes - Cylinder compression low
Worn camshaft / broken valve spring(s)
Fuel delivery pressure (low / high)
Fuel injector(s) blocked / leaking
Fuel injector(s) continuously open
Fuel contamination
Fuel injector circuit fault(s) (Injector DTCs also flagged)
Spark plug failure / fouled / incorrect gap
ECM to ignition module primary circuit
fault(s) (Cylinder misfire detected DTC also flagged)
Ignition module ground circuit open
circuit, high resistance
Ignition module / coil failure
P0351 - Ignition coil (A1) primary / secondary circuit malfunction
Possible Causes - ECM to ignition module primary circuit
open circuit, short circuit to ground, high resistance
Ignition module ground circuit open, circuit high resistance
Ignition module / coil failure
P0354 - Ignition coil (A4) primary / secondary circuit malfunction Refer to P0351 Possible Causes
P1111 - This just means the diagnistic routine (drive cycle) has completed
P1367 - Ignition monitor – Group One (1A, 2B, 3B, 4A)
Possible Causes - Ignition monitoring circuit between splice
and ECM open circuit, short circuit to ground or short circuit to B+ voltage
Ignition module / coil group ground circuit fault
Ignition coil relay failure

These are Jaguar DTC codes from the AJ27 PDU manual. Codes from other manufacturers are irrelevant.
Sounds like you have a fuse or relay that is not working in the ignition system, or a continuity or ground issue.
Maybe someone else can see something here.

 

check the relay and fuse for the coils in the engine compartment fuse box. I just had 1 in here for that. Had a bad relay. I would still check the fuel, if the plugs are wet theyre not gonna fire either with fuel or water. the coil issue is normally a coild failure but also in the plastic connections on them. check those too

 

If you did get water in the fuel pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol then put some fuel in it. The alcohol will absorb the water to get you running. If you ran the tank too low it could also be that the fuel filter is plugged. The tank probably has quite a bit of sediment in it.
Of course this is after you finaly get spark and clean dry plugs.
Dave

 

jagstrated-

Suit yourself with the codes BUT, what your code reader says a fault is for another brand of vehicle does not matter to anyone. The codes are not a symptom of a problem that might just apply to another brand of vehicle. They are a delibrately programmed diagnostic that has a specific meaning for the computer the are programmed into. So, get the list of X-308 codes and what they mean and go from there.

My neighbor ate an apple yesterday and had a heart attack last night. He ate nothing else all day, so it must have been the apple.

Check the fuses brutal mentioned and if that does not get anywhere, then go for the grounds and hot leads.