My 1998 XJ8 failed its MOT because the ball joint covers were spilt. There doesn't seem to be any play in the joints themselves. I see you can buy just the covers from Ball Joint Boots, Replacement Ball Joint Boots.
Has anyone tried these?

Having read some of the posts on ball joints, I would certainly like to avoid having to press the old joints out.

 

they should name them ball ache covers, there must be a knack to fitting them. Try them and let us know.

 

To test if the ball joints are bad try to lift the tire, not just wiggle. I could do the "12&6" test and the "3&9" test and there was no play. Lifting straight up showed quite a bit. You can get new joints for under $70 a pair. Just have to heat the LCA to 450ish* and tap the old one out.

 

12 ton press, a torch and a harborfeight ball joint kit is what it took me

 

Thanks all for the helpful advice. I had a look on Sunday. The first snag was the wheel wouldn't come off. I had to slacken the nuts and drive the car up and down the driveway to loosen it.

That turned out to be just the start! Everything was so seized up. Despite liberal applications of Plusgas and heat the bottom balljoint taper would not budge. I tried pressing it out with a bottle jack, hammering against the collar of the retaining nut and a 'pickle fork' balljoint breaker. NB. If you are trying this, make sure the prongs on the fork aren't too long. Mine are, and I did some minor damage to the brake backplate as a result.

No joy with those methods, so I thought to remove the brake disc and back plate to get a clear swing at the offending joint. Hah! I split two good quality 17mm sockets and still couldn't remove the calliper carrier retaining bolts.

OK. I took the tie-rod joint and the top balljoint off to try to get a better purchase on the bottom balljoint. Still seized solid and resisting all my efforts.

Sorry fellow Jag owners, but after a full day's trying I have had to call quits on this job. It needs a wheel-free lift and a younger, fitter mechanic!

I'm waiting for the garage to call me back with a quote.

 

Wish my shop was closer. I am doing mine this morning as long as I can get the Mustang and Beretta out of my other stalls.

 

If you use the torch, heat the metal that the ball joint is pressed into. Buy yourself a can of PB Blaster. Heat the metal up a bit, no need to go crazy, perhaps up to 300*F and douse the ball joint with PB Blaster. Make sure to get where the joint is pressed into its housing. Sit there and watch it to ensure you're getting penetration. You'll see the PB Blaster bubble around the lip/edge of the ball joint. Keep heat on the housing and keep spraying. When you get back from work, spray it again. Are you using an impact on your c-clamp ball joint press? Are you sure you're pressing from the correct side?

 

My local garage quoted £267 plus VAT as long as I leave the car with them for a few days so they can fit it around other jobs.
That's for top and bottom joints and track rod ends both sides, so not a bad deal by the sound of it.

Just the "restricted performance" problem to sort out now!

 

Good luck with that job. I checked out Harbor Freight. I wish we had such well equipped tool stores here in the UK!

 

Just did mine. What a PITA. Had to heat the LCA to over 500*F (they are steel, not aluminum as I was previously informed) and get it glowing then slam it with a hammer. More specificaly a ball peen hammer rested in the middle of the ball joint and slam it with another hammer as not to gall the joint or control arm. Half dozen big swings and it droppes right out. Had the new ones sitting on ice and they slid right in. Held them in place for 15 seconds to make sure they swell back up and the LCA holds on to them like new.

Now on mine because they were extra stubborn I had to get the metal to glow AND the old ball joints literally exploded apart but in the end..... ME:1 Jag:0

 

I would have paid that to have it done. It was a pita.