Well it was nice while it lasted. I was out visiting accounts today and after talking to a customer about them changing their parts supplier to us, I hop back in the old beauty and crank. crank. crank. crank.......nothin'.
Being the expeirenced Jag tech I am (not) I check for pressure on the fuel rail and get nothin but a bunch of air, not even a mist or squirt, and that was with the key in the on position.
So here I go again, should be a breeze this time because its still so fresh in my head. I hate to admit it but I think Im going to use the same type of pump and hope this was just a bad one. Whats your ideas about it?

BTW JagtechOhio. I hope the one you used does better than this!

If anyone needs details about this job there is alot of info in my thread on in...
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ight=fuel+pump
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ight=fuel+pump

 

I just read through some of the older thread and this time I had alot of pressure in the fuel rail and after I bled it all out I tried to start it a few more times and it built air pressure back up in the rail. If the pump is out should it still be building air pressure in the fuel rail? Its in front of a potential customers business so I'm not working on it until they leave for the day. I haven't checked for the relay click or pump humm, but I will when I get back to the car.

 

The guesses from that information would be that residual fuel in the rail is vaporizing from engine heat, and you will not find pressure when you check it cold. That symptom isn't significant, just the absence of fuel...

Start checking it from the beginning, with a test light at the connector on top of the tank flange. I'm hoping the pumps aren't crap too.

 

I tore into this thing thinking I could get it done tonight, I got it out in under an hour got the pump and strainer warrantied out for new parts and as I was reinstalling it I noticed the link connection had a melted terminal on the black connector. So by this time it was dark and I was reconnecting the barrey to test if I had power to the melted plug when I arc the damn wrench against the tank and now I have no power to the link lead, the connectoer on top of the pump housing and the relay is not clicking anymore when I turn the key. So I swap the relay with another and it still does nothing... Oh but it gets better keep reading.
Now its black out side and Im doing this by my wife holding a flashlight, while I'm still in the customers parking lot, and as I push the tank back into place to close the trunck and call it a night and order the link lead the sharp edge of the tank cuts through the rubber of about 5 of the wires in that huge glob of wires to the passenger side of the tank...sparks fly the trunk lights go out and I realize I just blow it. The car cranks, interior lights work and the head lights work. the instrument panel says I have a rear lamp out(I didn't before) and the remote key fob is not working.
I'm beginning to think maybe this car doesn't like me.
Needless to say...Help PLEASE. Is there anyway of telling what the wires in that bunch go to by what color they are? Can someone post a link to a dealers or tech sites diaghram?
Thanks

 

Not quite sure I understand the problem with the harness damage, all of the wires have different color codes so it should be easy to match them up and splice them together. I can go out and look on a car and identify every wires' color code in that section of the harness, but I don't see the point. Maybe when you're working with some light you'll see it a little differently.

Everywhere in the factory manuals, you read cautions about fuel volatility. I chuckle about this alot, usually with a cigarette in my mouth, but the only time I saw a problem was when an electrical arc from a shorted wire ignited fuel vapors in the trunk of an XJ6... You are lucky.

Several features about the Airtex pump made me happy, one of which was the heavier gauge terminals on top of the pump. I got caught out when I opened the parts kit and found no adapter for the link lead inside...that took a trip to another store. The factory link lead on the car I was repairing had burned, this one was on the positive terminal connection atop the pump. The other two I have seen were negative terminal, but burned in the same place until they went open circuit. So I cut and spliced the Airtex plug onto the end of the factory link lead, and that saved me from having to order one from Jag for another $120. or so.

That's the way I'll be doing them all, unless this brand of pump's reliability comes into question. Splicing eliminates the added connection point between the replacement link lead and the factory one. That's where your failure has occurred, it's likely that the original link lead was already damaged and you didn't see it the first time around.

If you haven't figured out the loss of power from the first short circuit episode, look in the power buss box below the tank: follow the positive battery cable back from where it connects to the battery, and you'll find the box. Check for power through the fuses there. Just don't make any more sparks back there, or you might end up with alot more light to work with than you need.

 

Thats a great idea on the link lead slicing. what type of connections do you suggest? I could use the standard butt connectore but I would image youd like something more secure. I know Im lucky about the fumes and the arcing, and had it been day light and I wasn't mad about the whole ordeal I would have never made that mistake. I'll get the colors of the wires that were damaged after work today and get back to ya.
You are an invaluable asset to this forum, Thanks You.

 

I am going to splice the new harness into the stock link lead and skip paying 120.00 for it. What type of connectors did you use to splice the wires. A pic would be awesome but you probably didn't get one, huh.
I'll be doing that tomorrow and today I'll be trying to track down where i lost power to and hopefully find an easy fix at the end.