Hello gentlemen......I have a no start issue on my 98 XJ8. I recently replaced oil and filter, started up and allowed enough time to circulate ( short time) and rechecked oil level ok. After a while I decided to start her again and it turned over fine but never fired. I have been checking several threads, and have concluded after checking that I do have the following.
Fuel pressure 45lbs
fuel injectors firing according to Noid? light ( Bosh2)
Spark with a visual check with a plug out and grounded(good spark)
Pulled all the plugs and checked compression I have a low of 60psi and a high of 85psi.
I am now considering 1/4 teaspoon of oil in each cylinder as I suspect fuel
wash that has lowered them all........................Am I on the right track??

 

Yes, without a doubt.

 

Just noticed this is your first post. Welcome to the forum, and once it's running again please visit the new member area and introduce yourself.

New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Welcome on the forum, good to see someone who did his homework before posting .
As RJ237 says, most likely bore-wash, you are on the right track.

 

Thanks for the come back Eric and RJ.....you will be the first to know how this "washes -out".........onward and upward !!

 

Will certainly visit the "Newby" page ASAP.

 

I am back with a few more questions on this scenario, before I proceed .........Due to the fact that I have not experienced this issue after having this XJ8 for over 5 years, and this did happen directly after oil change, I wonder now if the new oil 5w30 Mobil synthetic that i used is also contributing to the problem. ( ie is it too thin?) I believe in the past I was using 10w30 ? Hmmmm ? What say you?

 

Not an oil problem, you just shut it down while it was running the rich mixture for start up.

After you put the oil in the cylinders turn the engine over a couple of spins with you foot all the way to the floor on the accelerator pedal. That shuts the injectors off and spreads oil on the cylinders. You might even go to 1/2 tsp. oil but don't over do it.

 

Take the advice of RJ237 and ericjansen, these guys are spot on! I had exactly the same problem, and following both their advice bore wash turned out to be the problem. I tried the foot hard down, got a crankcase backfire that made me turn white so tried the 'put some oil in each bore' route, fired up first turn. I was a little unlucky in that I ruined a Knock Sensor, hopefully you will escape that. If all is well, thank these guys, they deserve it

 

The easiest cure for bor wash is to hold the throttle fully to the floor and crank the engine for about 3 to 5 seconds. Do this 3 or 4 times then hold the throttle part way and crank the engine to start.
When the throttle is fully depressed on start up it shuts the fuel off to the injectors and allows the cylinders to clear. Crank adds oil to the interior of the engine.
This method works to prevent knock sensor damage and all of that lovely smoke.

 

I fully agree on this, if it was not that it seems some cars have their throttle pedal stop wrong (probably from the factory), it should be 90% fully pressed against the stop, some are less.
I strongly presume that if the pedal can't be pressed the full 90%, the fuel is not cut off.

Orrrr, as some cars have the stop as a fixed bumb, and other, later models have it as a kick down switch, there might be differences there.

I am not sure on both of the above, but rather sure the advise of fully pressing the accelerator to solve bore wash does not cover the full line of our cars.

 

Gentlemen..........Great news, I followed the 1/4 teaspoon 2.5 ml of oil/cylinder trick today. I removed Fuse 7 in boot fusebox(fuel pump) , cranked it a couple of time for approx 5 sec. I then replaced F7, gave it 1/2 throttle and my cat leaped into life. Yes there was some smoke for approx 1 minute. It was a beautiful thing!!! I do have a "check engine light", will be looking at the codes and erase as necessary. ....Thank you all so much for the encouragement along the way and the great advise....Cj ( PS will check in tomorrow with followup)

 

Well done chriselley, welcome to the 'bore wash club', it's great to hear the big cat roars again. Let us know your findings with codes, as I said before, mine turned out to be a Knock Sensor, and since changed I don't think my engine has ever run better, maybe it was a fault prior to the bore wash, who knows? Told you the guys on here are brilliant!

 

As a follow up......I do have several error codes listed now and a check engine light. I will be checking codes and hopfully erase them all along with check engine. will check in on the 15th with an update...

 

I cleared out the error codes last night , check engine light now is out, and now have the P1000 ( normal) code . All is well thank you all again for your input and encouragement

 

Great.
The P1000 will be replaced by P1111, once all emission tests are run successfully.
Mine normally sets after some 20 miles, but need a bit of constant highway speed to finish the last two.

 

What causes bore wash?

 

Welcome to the forum 9under1roof,

Starting and then switching the engine before it has had time to warm up and is still in rich/cold start setting. Typically moving the vehicle a few feet out of the garage and switching off straightaway does it.

You've noticed the engine is at fast idle after a cold start and this drops about 200 rpm after a few minutes (depending on external temperature) as it warms up? Switching off while still at high idle can cause the bore wash problem.

Graham

 

Thank you!

 

This, bore wash, is also known as "lawn mower syndrome". Back the car out and shut it down to get the mower out and boom, bore wash. It is also very common among some Volvo's, where i first learned on this.