Crankshaft Locking
#21
Here's the drive plate Bob, Ross and me are on about, it's not built for over 300Nm of torque......silly money from Jaguar, just shy of a grand to replace - don't rely on the crank locking plug. The plug slots in the oval hole, if this is mis-shaped then the crank position sensor is screwed, strap up the crank damper and stick with a hefty impact wrench/long socket bar, a bit of heat on the bolt head will help break down the threadlock, but be careful not to cook the rubber in the damper.
torque converter boss?
Can you tell me which part of this is the torque converter boss described in the manual? I'm assuming it's the red arrow, but haven't got underneath to look through the opening.
#22
It's a bit of a PITA to find, especially if you are trying to do it on your own. I would spot it after it had passed the required spot, so I painted the squares a slot or two before it, so I knew when it was coming around. You remove the crank positioning sensor, and put the crank locking tool in its place when the oval slot is lined up.
You have to remove the rubber inspection grommet to view inside, position yourself a little to the right of the center of the car, and shine a light towards the left, and you will see the oval slot as it comes around. And obviously all four of the flats on each of the camshafts have to be in the "horizontal" position at this time with the right bank of cam lobes pointing towards each other, and the left back pointing away from each other.
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#23
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volkris (03-08-2019)
#24
The way I did it was quite easy: turned the crankshaft and stopped somewhere before the cams approached the flats position; put the crankshaft locking tool in and used a suitable longer bolt with a spring on it to spring-load the locking pin; then turned the crankshaft very slowly until the pin slid in.
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