Help with strange sound!
#1
Help with strange sound!
Hey, everyone
So a few months ago, I hit a curb really hard and fast, which popped both right tires and even dented the both of the rims. The accident rendered the front rim seemingly unusable, so I used the full-sized spare in its replacement and bought a new tire for the rear right tire (but have since bought 4 new tires so they're all the same). After that happened, I started hearing this strange, whistle-like sound coming from the back passenger (right) side of the car. The sound comes on and off sometimes, but it is really bothering me now (but hasn't really gotten worse, just annoying really). The only other strange symptoms I've encountered was that maybe on two occasions since then, with traction control on, I would try accelerating from about 25-30 mph (not hard either, not even to cause wheel spin) and the car would not accelerate and the ASC light would come on as if the wheels were spinning, which they weren't because I didn't accelerate that much, and the road was gravel-free and dry.
I also changed both rear rotors and pads in attempt to solve the issue, but no change in pitch, loudness. The sound doesn't change with hand brake or foot brake either.
I have no idea what it could be, so any suggestion is welcomed.
I uploaded a video file to my Drive, since it was too large to upload here, so the two videos that I have are:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/13n4...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uyc...ew?usp=sharing
If you listen closely, your can hear almost like a whistling, screeching noise faint in the background--that's the one I'm talking about. It sounds louder in the car though, with the windows down.
Any input would help.
Thanks!
So a few months ago, I hit a curb really hard and fast, which popped both right tires and even dented the both of the rims. The accident rendered the front rim seemingly unusable, so I used the full-sized spare in its replacement and bought a new tire for the rear right tire (but have since bought 4 new tires so they're all the same). After that happened, I started hearing this strange, whistle-like sound coming from the back passenger (right) side of the car. The sound comes on and off sometimes, but it is really bothering me now (but hasn't really gotten worse, just annoying really). The only other strange symptoms I've encountered was that maybe on two occasions since then, with traction control on, I would try accelerating from about 25-30 mph (not hard either, not even to cause wheel spin) and the car would not accelerate and the ASC light would come on as if the wheels were spinning, which they weren't because I didn't accelerate that much, and the road was gravel-free and dry.
I also changed both rear rotors and pads in attempt to solve the issue, but no change in pitch, loudness. The sound doesn't change with hand brake or foot brake either.
I have no idea what it could be, so any suggestion is welcomed.
I uploaded a video file to my Drive, since it was too large to upload here, so the two videos that I have are:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/13n4...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uyc...ew?usp=sharing
If you listen closely, your can hear almost like a whistling, screeching noise faint in the background--that's the one I'm talking about. It sounds louder in the car though, with the windows down.
Any input would help.
Thanks!
#2
#5
rear wheel Bearings; look for distorted metal up front; check the plastic air tubes that rush air to the brakes on the right front (these are fragile when new and ripe for breakage when old -- lost mine on I 4 in Orlando hitting a pothole and they dropped off in a gas station in Ga hours later); donut that retains the right muffler and tailpipe. All on a lift!
#6
I have tried checking the bearing by lifting it slightly to get the rear wheel off the ground and attempted to rock it side to side and vertically side to side. I found no play in the wheel, so I'm not sure if that rules out the wheel bearing completely. I will see if I can get it on a lift tomorrow, and see if I notice anything you all have mentioned.
I appreciate the help.
I appreciate the help.
#7
I lifted the side where I hear the whistling noise (rear right) and turned the wheel by hand, and heard sort of a scraping noise at specific points when turning the wheel, which I might figure is just the pads. I also heard the same scraping sound on the rear driver side, where I don't hear the whistling noise. So is it not of concern?
Here is a video of the sound:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Fd...ew?usp=sharing
I also rocked the wheel side to side from the top and bottom and from the side and heard little bit of play only rocking it from the top and bottom. I also did this to the driver side wheel and felt a little movement rocking it from top and bottom (not as much as the other side), but none on the sides, and the rocking noise wasn't really audible on this side.
Here is a video with narrative of what I'm talking about (sorry, I'm just recovering from the cold and am congested):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lwA...ew?usp=sharing
*I did tighten the wheel lug nuts before the video.
Thanks for the help.
Here is a video of the sound:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Fd...ew?usp=sharing
I also rocked the wheel side to side from the top and bottom and from the side and heard little bit of play only rocking it from the top and bottom. I also did this to the driver side wheel and felt a little movement rocking it from top and bottom (not as much as the other side), but none on the sides, and the rocking noise wasn't really audible on this side.
Here is a video with narrative of what I'm talking about (sorry, I'm just recovering from the cold and am congested):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lwA...ew?usp=sharing
*I did tighten the wheel lug nuts before the video.
Thanks for the help.
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#8
#9
#10
Sean B,
Haven't been able to get it on a lift yet, and I'm not sure when I can.
If both rear wheel make that scraping sound, should I replace both bearings?
As far as rocking it from the top and bottom, both rear wheels have very little play, but the one on the right is more pronounced as shown in the second video.
#3 on the diagram is the outer bearing
#9 is the inner bearing
Which one would I be looking to replace?
At this point, would it be easier to find a used hub assembly and just replace it?
Haven't been able to get it on a lift yet, and I'm not sure when I can.
If both rear wheel make that scraping sound, should I replace both bearings?
As far as rocking it from the top and bottom, both rear wheels have very little play, but the one on the right is more pronounced as shown in the second video.
#3 on the diagram is the outer bearing
#9 is the inner bearing
Which one would I be looking to replace?
At this point, would it be easier to find a used hub assembly and just replace it?
#11
#12
Solved
So I followed Sean's advice and took the abs speed sensor off and took a peak through the hole and the ring looked dirty and seemed like it was in contact with the wheel hub. I took a flat head screw driver and attempted to move the abs ring away from the hub and I did notice that it moved slightly. I then cleaned it with some WD-40 and with small air can and attempted to move it with a screw driver again, but this time it seemed like it was where it needed to be.
I test drove it, and NO noise. It's gone. I can finally open the windows without being annoyed!
Thanks for all the help.
I test drove it, and NO noise. It's gone. I can finally open the windows without being annoyed!
Thanks for all the help.
#13
#14
Update!
Sound came back after a few days. I have since then cleaned between the abs ring and the hub further, greased my cv joints on both sides of the half-shafts, and the noise is still there... Today, I lifted the rear of the car by putting jack stands on both sides and put the car in drive and could hear the noise again. Pitch doesn't really change with speed, neither the loudness, but it seems that after reaching 10-15mph, it comes on. The noise definitely is on the wheel part on not the differential. But I think it is internal since I sprayed a small amount of WD-40 on the brakes and behind the wheel where the CV joint is and didn't change the sound.
I took the wheel hub assembly off the control arm and unscrewed the bolt that tightens the axle to the hub, and couldn't budge the axle off the hub assembly. Is there a special tool for this, or is it just a matter of forcing it out?
At this point, I don't know what it is. It definitely is internal, so the half shaft may have bent, maybe the spindle? I spun it freely by hand and found no play or grinding noise, so I don't believe it to be any bearings.
I might just buy a whole hub assembly and half shaft because it really is irritating.
Sorry for the false alarm, but any help/suggestion is appreciated.
P.S. My professor tells me that I should just sell it and get myself an american-made car. Is he correct at this point?
I took the wheel hub assembly off the control arm and unscrewed the bolt that tightens the axle to the hub, and couldn't budge the axle off the hub assembly. Is there a special tool for this, or is it just a matter of forcing it out?
At this point, I don't know what it is. It definitely is internal, so the half shaft may have bent, maybe the spindle? I spun it freely by hand and found no play or grinding noise, so I don't believe it to be any bearings.
I might just buy a whole hub assembly and half shaft because it really is irritating.
Sorry for the false alarm, but any help/suggestion is appreciated.
P.S. My professor tells me that I should just sell it and get myself an american-made car. Is he correct at this point?
#15
#16
Open diff not limited slip - why oh why Jaguar, every car up to the point of this model had powerloc diffs, probably Ford penny pinching, with reliance on ABS.
Once you have the hub assembly off the car an are able to inspect it and all parts thoroughly....it'll be time to change the bearings. If you go back to your accident, then think about clearances - the bearings are the item that'll take the brunt of the forces involved.
A used hub assembly would be the quickest way of getting it back on the road. There's an XJR being parted out on the for sale forum, maybe ask on a price.
Did you explain to your professor the issue with your car was driver error and a USA built vehicle would have been totaled!
Once you have the hub assembly off the car an are able to inspect it and all parts thoroughly....it'll be time to change the bearings. If you go back to your accident, then think about clearances - the bearings are the item that'll take the brunt of the forces involved.
A used hub assembly would be the quickest way of getting it back on the road. There's an XJR being parted out on the for sale forum, maybe ask on a price.
Did you explain to your professor the issue with your car was driver error and a USA built vehicle would have been totaled!
The following users liked this post:
AZjag1999 (03-20-2018)
#17
Limited slip would make for a fun ride. Oh well. I may have bent one of the *****/rollers in the bearing, but what is strange is that after cleaning the ABS ring and the general area with air and WD-40, the sound went away for about 2 days, then came back.
I read up on the 2001 XJR that's being parted out, and got a deal for the hub, spindle, and half-shaft from the owner. I wanted to get all of those components since they're already pressed in as an assembly (I believe) and would make swapping components easier. Also, the exact cause could originate from different possibilities, so swapping all of the different components would eliminate all of the possibilities.
And yeah, he's a Ford, specifically Mustang, guy, but his reasoning is that Chevy, Ford, and Dodge parts are cheaper.
Honestly, when I hit the curb, the whole car jerked so hard that I thought I totaled it. Walked around the car, and was surprised that it was only the wheels and the slight internal damage that's causing the noise.
I read up on the 2001 XJR that's being parted out, and got a deal for the hub, spindle, and half-shaft from the owner. I wanted to get all of those components since they're already pressed in as an assembly (I believe) and would make swapping components easier. Also, the exact cause could originate from different possibilities, so swapping all of the different components would eliminate all of the possibilities.
And yeah, he's a Ford, specifically Mustang, guy, but his reasoning is that Chevy, Ford, and Dodge parts are cheaper.
Honestly, when I hit the curb, the whole car jerked so hard that I thought I totaled it. Walked around the car, and was surprised that it was only the wheels and the slight internal damage that's causing the noise.
The following users liked this post:
Sean B (03-20-2018)
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