This has been a slow frustration trying to get to my tensioners!
Using a normal puller (bolt is already out) and I cannot get the pulley to budge. I have left it with tension for a few days. I have put heavy tension on and off for an hour. I have bent 3 bolts on the puller working on it. I have used percussive influence on the pulley ( working around the edges) with a 2x4 through the grill area, smacking it with a hammer. I've used penetration oils and sprays. I've done this with three cars in the past and never had this amount of effort needed. Heat has been the only avenue I haven't tried yet, as I have no idea the rubber content in this general area.
What say you folk? Heat it and beat it? I'm open to any and all ideas!

 

Soak it in wd40 or similar and then apply as much pressure as it is safe for the bolts, leave for some time, release pressure and hit pulley back inward, apply pressure again wait some an hit inward again, rinse repeat till it releases. it will take quite long time but eventually will work out
Due to conical collar applying only outward pressure does absolutely nothing and only locks the thing in place but applying pressure and releasing moves the collar tiny bit by bit till it holds no more
...and don't get mad at your pulley, i actually dented mine while trying

 

Jaguar issued a TSB decades ago.
Just pull the damper a few MMs and strike it to loosen.

5. Hold the crankshaft by holding the torque converter with a lever, as described in the manual,
turn the bolt using a 24 mm socket and bar, to move the damper and collar 1 to 2 mm
forward on the crankshaft.
6. Remove the tool from the damper and then pull the damper forward and off the crankshaft:
if necessary, lightly strike the damper to loosen it.

 

I had to heat the collar and damper with induction heater to get it loose. Without heat it did not budge at all.

 

Thanks for this info. I've been doing a tightening most mornings and loosening each afternoon, 13 hours later. With PB blaster or WD-40. And a little knock with 2x4 and hammer. No movement yet, but I did manage to break the puller. Off to buy another! I will not surrender!

 

Looks like I'm buying my first induction heater tool then, much to my bank accounts dismay.
Never having used one before, did you just set it on the end/middle of the collar, since it doesn't protrude? My viewing of this tool always seems to involve going over a bolt to get it going, but I'm not savvy on this?

 

Maybe my thread contains new ideas - I don't know - but the pulley-puller, which I used, worked for me... - I did not have much of an issue pulling the balancer off.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-swap-266724/

But note that that pulley (balancer) consists of 2 parts connected via a layer of rubber. After you pulled it off, check, if that rubber is still intact, or if it got damaged...

 

I'm not sure if this will properly show the extent of the bend before the breakage or not, but we are using the same style of puller. Mine was cast, yours looks like an upgrade maybe?
I'm taking all my clues from your initial post btw, that's what inspired me to do this myself. Plus my local mechanic wanting $4100 to do the job. I'm nowhere near that desperate haha

 

I had tube style heater tip. I heated until wd40 started to smoke. Then quickly inserted puller back and voila, damper moved. I had to replace the o-ring inside the damper though. i do not know did it strech because the heat or not.

 

The sealing 'O' ring inside the damper always gets 'crispy' and crumbles trying to remove it.
It will usually come out in pieces.