The X308 had started leaking so I shoved it to the back of the shop last winter until I could get around to fixing it. Now its summer vacation and I'm tearing into it. I intended to replace the front main seal as well as check/replace the primary guides and tensioner (secondaries done many years ago). I got the pulley bolt out, which I think was the most force I've ever had to use on such a bolt. Now I can't get the pulley off. My generic puller fits just fine but I'm afraid to put any more torque on it for fear of stripping the threads out of the two bolts or snapping the heads off. Instructions say to pull it outward a millimeter or so, then tap it back inward to free it from the collet like its just the easiest thing ever, but I can't get it to budge outward even a thousandth of an inch. I've soaked it with penetrating oil for a week, tried a propane torch, nothing will break the grip. In desperation I thought about the opposite of heating to swell the pulley, packing the bolt hole with dry ice to try to shrink the crankshaft snout, but all the grocery stores are sold out of dry ice due to the holiday. Any hints before I throw in the towel?

 

I always just use a good quality puller set.


Use a few M8 x 1.25mm bolts fully threaded into the damper but don't go too far and hit the front timing cover.

bob

 

pdupler, when I did my tensioners, the main problem was undoing the crank pulley bolt, I had to repeatedly heat it and loosen it 1/4 turn at a time, until it came out. You have already overcome this obstacle, so it should be plain sailing from here on.

I found the crank pulley to be very tight, but I used the "proprietary" puller that came with the crank holding tool. It has a "centralizing button" that fits inside the end of the crankshaft and also helps keep the pulling force equal. What I did was put as much pressure on it as I dare using the puller, and then left it with that force on it over night. In the morning I applied some additional pressure and the pulley moved. Then, as per the standard advice, you tap the pulley back on a little to free it from the collet. (if you keep pulling it just keeps tightening the tapered collet) A bit of back and forth and the crank pulley comes off.

The "proper" tool is not cheap, but it may be the answer to your problem?


Or maybe you can borrow one from a forum member who is close by, or rent one from a local repair shop that works on Jags?



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I've got a puller similar to the one Bob shows. Able to thread the bolts in by finger so they don't go too far. A giant pin wrench that I made for another job adequately secures the pulley from turning during all this and functions just like the factory tool. I'm just staggered at how much torque I've already applied without it budging. If it had three or four bolts instead of two, then I'd feel comfortable just going ahead and torquing the heck out of it. I will try leaving the torque applied overnight.

 

The problem is, when pulling the pulley, you are actually wedging it tighter onto the collet (the collet is inverted). So it is essential that you keep on hitting the pulley back on two opposite sides. What I did was tighten the puller as much as I judged still safe, then release it just a bit and hit the pulley with a copper hammer alternating the sides. Tighten the puller again, release a bit, hit and so on. The pulley freed after some ten cycles.

 

Carnival, you are a hero to the Jaguar community! I did as you suggested, cinched up the puller very tight on Saturday evening, then left it for the "pain to argue with it" for a little over 36 hours (took Sunday off to go to a car show). This morning I went out to the shop, turned the wrench much easier this time and felt it break free in 1/8th turn. From then on it slipped out a couple of mm like butter. One tap and it was loose. Fished the collet out with my fingers and then removed the pulley. I was expecting it was still going to be a fight, but your little trick made it so easy. Anyone else doing this repair, just plan ahead to allow the time for the puller to work its magic on its own.

 

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I am so, so pleased to hear that the "waiting game" worked for you. I have used this method with stubborn pulleys and gears for many years! I was so sure it would work that I was worried when you didn't report in on Sunday!





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Hi,
Hopefully you guys still reply to this thread. Im not sure if I should keep trying to apply torque to the puller or try to knock the pulley back in. Please see the photo to see the current position of my crank pulley and the tapered collar. At this moment, I have broken one of the bolts on the puller set. Now I have to use the 2 jaws pulley to pull from the outside diameter. I know it could damage the pulley but it’s my last resource now. It looks like the pulley and the collar have moved outward a little and I should knock the pulley inward now. I have tried to knock the pulley really hard but its seems it doesnt move, yes literally knocking on it not tapping. Did I over pulled the pulley too much? You can see the bolt I broke in one of the photo.

 

Jaguar issued a TSB almost 3 decades ago about removal with the 'split cone'.