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Hi all, I'm about to install my newly rebuilt heads on my 2000 XJR and I have a question on how to set the cam shafts when I install them. The engine is at TDC (or whatever the position is where you install the crank locking peg) but the factory service manual doesn't seem to say anything about how to position the cam shafts so that the timing is correct or so don't tighten down the cam journal caps and bend a valve. Are there marks on the cam or some other indicator to let me know the correct way to install them?
Thanks.
There are no camshaft timing marks per se, you need a set of camshaft alignment tools to align the purposely machined timing flats on the camshafts.
Here is a link to a blow-by-blow procedure, if you scroll down to the assembly section it describes the timing alignment. Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement
The timing tool set can be purchased on Amazon for around $50.00
There are no camshaft timing marks per se, you need a set of camshaft alignment tools to align the purposely machined timing flats on the camshafts.
Here is a link to a blow-by-blow procedure, if you scroll down to the assembly section it describes the timing alignment. Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement
The timing tool set can be purchased on Amazon for around $50.00
I've already got one of those that what came with the crankshaft locking tool, right?
I think I see what I need to do, but I'll ask anyway since that write up you link was for replacing the timing chain not for replacing the whole cylinder head. After I bolt down the heads and tighten the head bolts accordingly, I position the camshafts in whatever way allows the camshaft locking tool to fit over them and then that locks it in place to get the timing chain one.
Also thanks for the write up, it just made me realize I still need to get a timing chain cover gasket.
Yes, set the cams so the flats align and can be locked in with the tool. Valve spring tension will fight you some, so be extra diligent with journal tightening order. Just to be extra careful, I took about 3 passes in order just to get the journals down against the head before even thinking about torque. Take your time and you'll be rewarded in the end.
PS while you have heads off would be a good time to consider a new alternator and starter. Super easy to get at with the head off, and they'll need replacing sooner or later anyway....
Steve
Scooby, yes, that is the timing tool set, which you already have, it includes the two camshaft locking tools, and other tools you will need when you come to attaching the timing chains.
As per Steve, you will have resistance from some of the valve springs that are naturally "open" in this timing position as you tighten the cams down.
When you order your timing cover gasket, don't forget to also replace the timing cover crankshaft seal.....and a new harmonic balancer retaining bolt.
And to jump forward a little, the blow-by-blow pdf I linked to is performed on a earlier A26 motor, which has different VVT actuators. In the description it states the torque for the VVT retaining bolts is 115-125nm (84-92ftlbs). Please note that on the later A27 motor the VVT retaining bolts are hollow and must NOT be torqued that high, the tightening specs for the later, hollow bolts is 85-90NM (62-66ftlbs).Check if your VVT bolts are hollow or not and torque appropriately.
Last edited by Carnival Kid; Oct 17, 2018 at 01:56 PM.
Reason: add appropriate pdf
Scooby, yes, that is the timing tool set, which you already have, it includes the two camshaft locking tools, and other tools you will need when you come to attaching the timing chains.
As per Steve, you will have resistance from some of the valve springs that are naturally "open" in this timing position as you tighten the cams down.
When you order your timing cover gasket, don't forget to also replace the timing cover crankshaft seal.....and a new harmonic balancer retaining bolt.
.
The timing cover gasket I ordered came with a smaller ring shaped gasket, is that the crank seal? Didn't get a harmonic balancer bolts, I'll order that next.
Originally Posted by Carnival Kid
And to jump forward a little, the blow-by-blow pdf I linked to is performed on a earlier A26 motor, which has different VVT actuators. In the description it states the torque for the VVT retaining bolts is 115-125nm (84-92ftlbs). Please note that on the later A27 motor the VVT retaining bolts are hollow and must NOT be torqued that high, the tightening specs for the later, hollow bolts is 85-90NM (62-66ftlbs).Check if your VVT bolts are hollow or not and torque appropriately.
The timing cover gasket I ordered came with a smaller ring shaped gasket, is that the crank seal? .
The timing cover/crankshaft seal is an approx 3" diam standard lip seal. (shown in the pic below at approx 1-o-clock). The harmonic balancer also has a smaller rubber "O" ring that fits inside a groove inside the harmonic balancer taper, this also should be replaced, (it is shown in the pic below at approx 11-o-clock), it is the thin rubber "O" ring, in the pic it is incomplete because it is the old one which has broken and is missing the top 30 degrees or so when it was removed, as yours also probably will be. Be sure to replace it with a new one.
So I'm about ton install my heads on the car, one quick question just cause I don't want to screw this up. The diagram above is from the workshop manual, is the side of the head marked with and "A" the front for rear of the engine?
I'm not seeing the answer I'm looking for in the thread you linked. That thread is about cylinder numbering. The diagram I posted above from the workshop manual for the cylinder head installations, the numbers correspond to the tightening order of the head bolts. I just want to confirm which end of the diagram is the front and which is the rear. Is the end marked "A" the front?
I believe that "A" is the front of the engine, but it really doesn't make any difference, the tightening sequence dictates starting in the center, and working diagonally towards the ends. This can be done from "A" to "B", or from "B" to "A" and it will be the same thing regardless of which end is "A" or "B".
Front or rear isn't so critical, as long as you follow the center-out sequence. That said, I'm pretty sure 'A' is the cam locking tool which makes that the front
Yes, the end marked "A" is at the front where you can also see the two smaller (M8) head bolts that are torqued last. The Workshop manual, for some reason, shows that the M10 bolts "8" and "10" are at the front of the LH head and at the rear of the RH head which, although it should not really matter, does not make sense. The torquing sequence of one head should be the left-right mirror image of the other head, as shown in the attached extract from the Jaguar Dealer Training manual:
Yes, the end marked "A" is at the front where you can also see the two smaller (M8) head bolts that are torqued last. The Workshop manual, for some reason, shows that the M10 bolts "8" and "10" are at the front of the LH head and at the rear of the RH head which, although it should not really matter, does not make sense. The torquing sequence of one head should be the left-right mirror image of the other head, as shown in the attached extract from the Jaguar Dealer Training manual:
The timing cover/crankshaft seal is an approx 3" diam standard lip seal. (shown in the pic below at approx 1-o-clock). The harmonic balancer also has a smaller rubber "O" ring that fits inside a groove inside the harmonic balancer taper, this also should be replaced, (it is shown in the pic below at approx 11-o-clock), it is the thin rubber "O" ring, in the pic it is incomplete because it is the old one which has broken and is missing the top 30 degrees or so when it was removed, as yours also probably will be. Be sure to replace it with a new one.
[/QUOTE]
So I'm looking over the parts I've ordered and it does not look like the timing cover gasket I bought includes the crankshaft seal or harmonic balancer o-ring as I first thought. I've found this: part no XR81139 which I think is the o ring, can anyone please confirm. I'm struggling to find a part no for the crankshaft seal however. Does it go by any other name?
The correct cam timing is at NOT TDC. Correct cam timing is 45 degrees ATDC.
Thanks, I've got the crank locking pin in the flywheel so its set at whatever point it locks to, and will be using the cam locking will set it to correctly match that.
Follow the Workshop Manual procedures for fitting the VVT units to the each camshaft so they're in the correct position when mounting the secondary timing chains.
So I'm looking over the parts I've ordered and it does not look like the timing cover gasket I bought includes the crankshaft seal or harmonic balancer o-ring as I first thought. I've found this: part no XR81139 which I think is the o ring, can anyone please confirm. I'm struggling to find a part no for the crankshaft seal however. Does it go by any other name?[/QUOTE]
Cylinder Head install question
