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Asking the forum with help diagnosing my 2000 XJ8 drivers front door squeak. I know this is a known problem with the model at its age, but having read through the extensive threads about a fix - I am curious if there is something else awry with my door. Please see the attached / linked video for a description of the "jiggle".
I am only a few weeks into this beautiful car - I am the third owner. The car is in pristine condition for its age, and has been very well taken care of by previous owners.
Here's What I've Got:
• Door cards have been removed to replace speakers and the photograph below is of the arm in question. Am I correct in assuming the "washer trick" was already performed by a previous owner? I did not examine the other arms to compare, but the pic looks different than original equipment arm photos I have seen.
) shows the jiggle of the arm at the connection to the body. My first "fix" attempt was to tighten those star head screws. Unfortunately, these screws just spun without tightening. A cursory poke-around led me to believe access to these screw backs / whatever they bolt into is hard to access.
• Previous owner seemed to be aware of the issue : the car was missing the plastic cover for this part of the car at purchase.
You need to replace the door check. His hack repair did not fix it so take all that apart and see what it needs? Might require a bit of welding too.
I would look at the passenger side setup and see what's broken and/or missing.
When you attempted to tighten the screws did you hold a backup on the nut? It might just need to be snugged up some?
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When you attempted to tighten the screws did you hold a backup on the nut? It might just need to be snugged up some?
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If you knew how to access the nut, it would be very helpful in trouble shooting. Would jump all over this as a temporary, but as I mentioned - accessing that area eluded me. I did not start pulling trim/etc. to really dig in.
Could be moot - 2 weeks in and my trans fluid hose is leaking because of a bum steering repair (rubbing hoses making holes) that was performed by the previous owners shop. Mechanic believes the work hours needed to access the hose for replacement could be very large. It may be the end of my Jaguar experiment. Wish it luck.
Hmmmm...I guess the days of a 30 minute power steering hose change
are gone. I admit I have not attempted it on the Duchess so I am not certain
what is involved.
I am confused?
How did you get the picture you posted if you can't figure out how to access it?
Yes if you can't DIY the repairs on a 24 year old expensive luxury car it will be very expensive to use a commercial garage and even more troubling is how to find a shop that knows your car?
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Last edited by clubairth1; Aug 25, 2024 at 09:45 AM.
the star heads that are jiggling. mentioned in the first post and re-indicated in the second. they presumably screw into/are held in place by something.
on DIY:
mechanic with experience with the model suggests large elements of the car need to be removed to access the trans hose for replacement. maybe this is an easy diy for some folks with a mechanics garage at home? if you anyone has knowledge of this repair and can correct me - it would be wonderful news. i work in design/build and bought the car to cut my teeth on body/mechanical work. i would love to do this work myself. i am using freds wrigglyville garage in chicago. if any locals know a better spot for an x308, im all ears!
on Vibe:
i know its a forum thing, maybe amplified as a jag forum thing - but where is the love? i obviously bought this car because i love it. i dont think anyone buys a 25 year old jag expecting it to be a honda civic. i am on the forum looking for support from other folks that ?want to be on a forum to share advice and appreciation for a lovely car? i wanted to grow with this car and spent months finding an example that appeared healthy. hoping jag owner stereotypes prove out to be untrue if I keep leaning on the forum. i am being a snark, i know, as a new forum member. bad news, know your place. but just disappointed in the face of some sad news about a car i have already poured hours and hours into.
Last edited by The Pumaman; Aug 25, 2024 at 10:20 AM.
The trans cooler lines cannot be removed/replaced without dropping the front 'crossbeam'.(or remove the engine)
I did repair a chaffed gearbox aluminum cooler line once by cleaning it carefully and splitting a piece of hydraulic hose and 'packing' the line and hose with oil resistant RTV and clamping in place.
The repair lasted years and might still be holding?
There is a lot of FLOW but little pressure.
What I can take from the video. Door check arm is dry as a bone. Torx bolts at the A pillar are loose and possible stripped threads. Grease the arm rollers and try to tighten the torx bolts.
The trans cooler lines cannot be removed/replaced without dropping the front 'crossbeam'.(or remove the engine)
I did repair a chaffed gearbox aluminum cooler line once by cleaning it carefully and splitting a piece of hydraulic hose and 'packing' the line and hose with oil resistant RTV and clamping in place.
The repair lasted years and might still be holding?
There is a lot of FLOW but little pressure.
thankyou, that is very motivating. saw these flavor of line fixes, and think ill attempt to wade through after i get my (presumed) enormous estimate from the garage today. worse case, i can always call in the garage up if i mangle the job. excited to get under the car for the first time.
What I can take from the video. Door check arm is dry as a bone. Torx bolts at the A pillar are loose and possible stripped threads. Grease the arm rollers and try to tighten the torx bolts.
Will try both & see if the torxs need a replace. Will update the thread with the results. Thanks for the diagnosis.
I am still confused on how you got a picture of the nuts but you don't have any idea how to access them?
Who took that picture?
Is it from your car?
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