Hi Jag Folks . . . I'm half dreading any answers, but I've still gotta ask. I'm still wandering around my recently acquired 3.2 ltr 2001 XJ8 (X308) that has traveled approx. 105k English Country miles. Read various threads on door clicking issues and I've just taken out the foam fill that sits around the door stay (inside the door itself (first pic)) and taken a few pics (see pics 2, 3 and 4) that show x2 cracks on the metal panel where the door stay arm mechanism affixes to the inside of the door.

Now I know this is not good, but I'm hoping there might be a fix out there short of removing, disassembling and welding or sourcing another door? The original problem was probably as a result of the other end of the stay being loose where it is fixed to the A pillar. Fixed that over weekend with a simple tightening of the torx bolts which has improved (reduced) the loudness of the door "clicking" but not completely cured it.
The foam insert removed from the cavity in the door end of the door stay arm.

Looking into the door stay cavity in the door itself. Can just about see the cracks running to both upper and lower bolts.

Another picture of the crack running to the upper bolt fixing

Another picture of the crack running to the lower bolt fixing

Is there any kind of aftermarket/bespoke plate that could be affixed to either door and/or A pillar anchor points to strengthen them?

Livin' in eternal hope . . Stoke Jag Dude

 

Thinking out loud for a minute . . . would it help it I cleared a circle of paint away (to bear metal) from around the bolt and sandwiched (say) a 1" washer under the nut but also coated the inside face of the washer with a metal alloy compound mix. That would surely strengthen the rigidity of the plate at this point?

Any thoughts? Cheers Guys

 

I had to replace my door check arm as mine actually snapped at the base. When I removed it I found the typical bent and torn sheet metal on both the leading edge of the door and on the hinge side. I opted to use the largest diameter, thickest (and hence sturdiest) washers I could get in there and still get the nut to fully thread onto the bolt. Couldn't tell you what size washers I used, they were in that big jar of spare bits that we all have accumulated over the years. This was over a year ago and I've had no issues since.

 

Cheers for that info Mayhem . . . its sorta . . . "sad to be glad" that others have had same/similar issues. It appears to be a design flaw to me that a big heavy swinging Jag door doesn't appear to have any strengthening/rigidity plate at the stress points on the door itself or on the A pillar? I'll see if others jump in, but using some washers and metal alloy mix might be a cheap and easy "fix". Just to be sure, are the protruding bolt threads fixed to the mechanism on the other side of the plate in my pics . . . or I have I gotta have access from removing the door card?

Cheers . . Stoke Jag Dude

 

look for threads on this issue. There are reinforcements available; that said, huge washers work too! No matter which way you go, you will need to remove the door card: there is a trick, it slides forward . . . again search the forum.

The attached doc is what I saved from doing this on F35063 . .

 

Back when Coventry West was open, they used to offer a really nice, thick steel plate already drilled and ready to install. I think at least 2 if not all 3 of our jags have them installed. Unfortunately I don’t have another source for them.

 

Daily driver fixed just with washers. Project car much worse and needed welding and washers.

 

Thanks for all your input and I think I'm gonna get x4 washers on all fixing points for now as a temporary fix. I've gotta go into drivers door in future to replace a broken speaker grill and I'll do a more permanent fix by drilling washers and using metal mix alloy on backs.

Thanks for all input . . . keep the Cats roaring!!

 

Don’t really need washers on inside as hinge has large contact area. Also thickness of two washers does not leave much thread. Can do washers with door on. If take off, pull pin in big hinges and do not unbolt.

 

Ewwww.... These postings made go and check the door stays on the Duchess, fearing
the worst. I was pleasantly surprised to find no degeneration or issue. It makes
me wonder if the doors whose pictures appear in the thread didn't get caught in
a wind gust that caused undue stress.

 

I think always driver’s side since much more use. Just this sheet medal and small bolts. I’d add washers proactively.

 

Just a quick UPDATE on my mission to cure my annoying drivers door "clicking" door check/stay arm. I've concluded the internal mechanism is busted and I've got hold of a replacement used stay to go on. Using the replacement part, I can give you the max size of the washers to use. Useful as its a bit awkward to reach and judge the sizes whilst the stay is in place.

The studs that protrude out from the mechanism inside the door are 6mm and the torx bolts that go into the A pillar are 8mm. The optimum size washers to use are . . . 38mm diameter and 8mm centre hole and about 2mm thick. A couple of pics are attached. BTW . . the locating pin in the bracket on the A pillar is "ribbed" at the top of the pin. DO NOT try to rotate it . . just tap it upwards after removing the nut off the bottom of the pin.

Cheers Chaps

Maximum diameter of any washers to use

Hole size that accommodate both studs (off door) and bolts/pins into the A pillar

This is what the door check arm/stay looks like. Studs push through the door inner face towards the A pillar.

Another pic showing the torsion bar that checks the arm at the two stay positions.

Stay from above showing the top roller. A bottom roller provides the pressure onto the bottom of the arm which is contoured to check the travel at mid point and retain it in the fully open position as shown.