Not sure of your car but do you have a foot brake switch or brake pedal position sensor?

 

So, I am decided for a TB rebuilt , from ASI.
I bought a XJ8 unit from ebay,the part is located in the States , East coast, and I am going to send it to them for a rebuilt.
My question, as some of you already used this company, what is the difference between the price of 289$ repair and 489$ repair as seen on ebay shop?
1999 00 01 2002 Jaguar XK8 99 03 XJ8 Throttle Body Assembly Repair XW939E926AE | eBay


99 00 01 02 03 Jaguar XK8 XJ8 Throttle Body Valve TPS PPS XW939E926AE Oos | eBay

My part is an AE unit.

 

I would call and ask them they have a 1.800 number

 

Hi Flay
The first Ebay listing - 1999 is a rebuild Service ($289.99) on TB (your existing TB sent to them and they rebuild it then ship your TB back to you.

The second Ebay listing - 99 is a ($489) Remanufactured TB (one they already rebuilt that they send out to you and after you install it, then you send your old TB to them --- exchange program). You have a short downtime with the exchange.

Rebuild Service timeline is your TB shipped to ASI, Rebuild time, ASI shipped your TB back to you.

Exchange Service timeline is ASI rebuild TB on shelf, ASI shipped their rebuild TB to you, then you ship your old TB to ASI.

At least it is what I understand from reading the 2 Ebay listings.

Jim Lombardi

 

Thank you for that! I had a chat with one of the operators from ASI and I was not very sure what he said, "THE REPAIR SERVICE IS YOU SENDING US YOUR THROTTLEBODY WE WILL REPAIR IT AND SEND YOUR ORIGINAL THROTTLEBODY BACK TO YOU.OUT OF STOCK PRICE IS 589, REPAIR SERVICE PRICE IS 289" .
Seems that repair and rebuilt is a different terminology there; the ebay prices are including the free delivery of the repaired unit.

 

Before ordering the throttle body rebuilt I am thinking about the airflow sensor... with the engine stopped sometimes is sees a 399 kg/min consumption, sometimes 5,7 kg/min, but never 0. Is it a sign that something is wrong with it? The lack of power may be influenced by this? How are your readings on the airflow sensor with the engine stopped, 0 or something? I have no code about the airflow sensor.
Your help appreciated!

 

Hi,
I had exactly the same problem with my car and the same warnings. Not really knowing what the problem might be I took off the plastic bulkhead covers to see if I could see anything loose etc. In the middle of the bulkhead is a small black canister with Jaguar on the cap, it is held by two bolts. I took the bolts out and found that there are three vacuum hoses attached to this canister, the small middle one had come loose on mine. I found some new plastic pipe and reconnected everything back up. I have not had any more warnings and the car runs great, I have been told the canister is to do with emissions control and should it fail it will also cause oil to enter the air filter. I hope this is of some help with your problem, it's only a few minutes job to check the connections on the canister.

 

Hi there, it's the purge control valve and I must admit that during my LHD conversion I stretched that pipes a little trying to reach the harness at the top of the gearbox. One of the hoses had some holes and I repaired it with some tape.
Did you check and there were P0121 codes?

 

Hi,
I did not check for any codes, so cannot help you there. What I have learnt though is that ANY vacuum leaks will cause problems, when I made my 1st. repair I used a soft clear plastic pipe, after a few weeks this kinked and back came the warnings. I changed to a much stronger pipe and it has been OK for about a month now.

Your repair with tape will not be good enough as any leaks will cause problems, if I was you I would go back and do the job properly with some new pipe. Good luck.

 

Hi, I just changed today all the clamps on the purge valve with some jubilee clips; the hose repair is still good, it was some RTV silicone plus a lot of tape over it, but it's on my list of needed parts.

 

For weeks now Vandy ('99 XJ8 VDP) has pretty much remained in the driveway. Whenever I've relied upon her to provide much needed transportation, she can go miles with no problems..then suddenly fail again. Each time this happens, I've either just hit a "sharp" bump, changing from reverse to drive or when turning a corner in the neighborhood and the transmission is downshifting to low gear.

Yesterday I went to move her so she would not get covered with dust while I mowed the yard, and right away she started up in the Fail Safe mode with the transmission fail etc. messages. Shut her down, pulled key, went thru the start up mode again…all's well. Let her warm up, took her around the block and on the 3rd left turn as the transmission shifted down to low, BOOM, fail safe mode again.

Now based upon the codes etc. and as many have suggested in so many posts on the forum, I'd suspect the coded TPS or PPS. But 3-4 times now the failure has been "bump" related and for just as many times the failure has happened when the transmission was shifting into low and a few times when going from reverse to drive. Like i say, i would suspect the PPS or TPS as for two of the conditions, my foot would be barely depressing the pedal. However yesterday, without success I purposely tried to recreate the problem for 5 or so minutes, lightly depressing the throttle pedal…back and forth. Giving up, I took it around the block and as I said, the fail safe mode came back to me on the 3rd left turn in the neighborhood.

Daughter's wedding in a couple of weeks…no extra scoones to spare to spend for dealer or shop troubleshooting. Short of a match and kerosene…suggestions?

 

Again, I have to advocate the 'cable tie' fix.

I believe the clips on the TPS plug get brittle and break, which is why the plug moves when you hit a bump. Not very much, to be fair, but obviously enough to cause the fault.
A cable tie, wrapped tightly around the plug, seems to be holding everything tight enough that I haven't seen the problem since

 

I have to agree with your thought process Grandell…which is why a few weeks ago I was fairly certain I had solved the problem after cable-tying all the associated connections. I even thought that it may have been the Crankcase Position Sensor connection where the brittle tab had broken off…so I also glued it together. I also disconnected, inspected, reconnected and then cable-tied the large black connection junction block that is located on the firewall. Alas, after a full day of running well and subsequently sharing my thoughts of success with my brother over a very late lunch, the FAIL SAFE stumble dance happened as soon as I went from reverse to drive, after backing out of the restaurant parking spot.

I've also disconnected and inspected, cleaned and reconnected every ground point that I could access.

I think I've read elsewhere something about possibly the instrument panel connections somehow influencing the issue? I know I have the random gauge lights out issue…where rarely they all work in unison. Usually a random 1-2 will be out, and it changes with each drive…and a few times, I've either lost or gained a light during the drive. Finally reached a point that I no longer check to see if a bulb is burnt out. A year or so ago, I just learned to enjoy it whenever all the lights wanted to play at the same time.

I'd like to believe it is the throttle body…but that is a costly replacement. And since I can't seem to purposely make the FAIL SAFE happen, thru throttle manipulation, tapping on throttle body sensors or moving associated wires around…I am hesitant to spend $$$'s on a throttle body to potentially wind up right back to where I am today.

 

Hi Crosbo,
I had a similar intermittent fault on my XJ8 approx. 18 months ago and would get all sorts of messages. After much head scratching I discovered that there is a multiplug behind a plastic cover in the passenger foot well (mine is RHD car so yours might be on opposite side to mine). This plug carries about 40 wires through the panel and off towards the front of the car and the EMC. There is a clamping clip on this plug and looking at it you would wonder how it could cause any trouble. Well when I undid my clip the plug was such a loose fit it almost fell apart on it's own, there was absolutely no resistance between the two halves of the plug. I could see no way to tighten up the connectors so decided to do away with the plug altogether. I cut, soldered and shrink wrapped all 40 wires and have had no further trouble no matter how bumpy the road. I cannot say for definite that this is your problem but it will only take you a few minutes to check how loose your multiplug is. HTH

 

That's the "left forward harness" connector and it's on the left part of the car on both LHD and RHD. The power goes to the ABS module, headlamps, cooling fans and other.
Back to the TB problem, for the last hundreds of miles ,mine (50 pounds from ebay) showed no messages or codes, but only P1000 is stored(anybody know how long after the battery reconnection is P1111 showed?).
I am a little furious seeing new TB for the X350 at a cost of around 100 pounds new.

 

Thanx for your suggestions V8mad, I will definitely have to check it out.

Okay, so here is the update as of earlier today. I ordered and installed new Knock Sensors, as over the last couple of years I would see those codes now and again, but lately the codes were persistent. I didn't want to believe they both could "go bad" at the same time…but. Ordered up a couple for a steal on eBay (actually, I think they are for the XJ8…longer leads) and installed them yesterday morning. Then I decided to try once again to seal the cap on the thermostat/distribution tower that was leaking. NOPE…the top of the rotten piece of crap snapped right off. ARGGHHH!!!!

Yeah, more than a year back…maybe 2 years ago…I had purchased the entire kit to change everything over to aluminum. But after reading on the forum how difficult it was to get to the rear bolts etc, I was intimidated and only replaced parts as they died…holding off on the tower…until now. But that is another story.

Anyway, car back together, leak gone, new Knock Sensors in place and a hard reset later…after letting it idle for 10 or more minutes, we took a test drive. Excellent. Later my son and I took Vandy for lunch…so far, so good. Along the way, we hit several sharp bumps, took left turns, backed out of parking spots going from reverse to drive…and I hope I'm not jinxing myself, but so far, so good.

Of course, success (even short term) doesn't go unpunished. Then the door locks stopped unlocking on our P38 Range Rover…and we still can't get it synchronized. But that my fellow Jaguar lovers, is another story altogether.

Have a great weekend all…and thanx for your suggestions and postings.

--tom

 

OMG: A Landy, a RR, and a 308 jag, you are into pain . . . .

 

Indeed JHartz…indeed.

But after I finished wiping off the LR and Vandy after a nice hand washing once the sun had gone down, I once again couldn't resist stating how beautiful the ol' gal is…her lines, her grace, her sheer sexiness.

Update on problem. So far, so good. Drove around in Vandy all day yesterday with no problems. The new aluminum cooling tower looks beautiful and it is so nice not to have those trickling leaks…finally!

Never-the-less, sent the Mrs. off on her 20 mile trek to work once again, in LR. I want to drive Vandy around some more and give her the chance to act up and FAIL SAFE me, before I finally give her back to my Mrs. to rely upon. I still have V8mad's post in the back of my mind.

A fresh hand wash, new sunshade and some loving attention. Hopefully she behaves herself.