How does the front link ABS connector that goes behind the wheel arch work as there's not much room to see and I don't want to break it?
Looking at the new one I thought it would push OVER the other side on the car, and a plastic tab comes out of the slot on the edge which you need to press to release. But using a camera probe to look at the one in situ it looks like it actually goes INTO the other side of the connector attached to the car.
Do you simply pull on it to get it out, or do you need to press something to release it?

New one looks like it would go over the other side with the slot where tab from other side would come through to secure it.

But existing one looks like it goes into the other side. Can't work out what that plastic thing is which would sit behind where the slot is on new one.

 

 

Perfect! Thank you!

 

Excellent, I couldn't work that out without laying on a cold wet drive, which is why I hadn't removed mine to test them either.

 

I've tried disconnecting it but can't. It's difficult because a) I can't see it and relying purely on touch b) There's only enough room for one hand. I'm finding it difficult to feel which part to press, but then I can't press the thing at the end and pull the connector at the same time. Can anyone please help with any tips or advice, as it's making what should be an easy job very difficult!
Just wondered whether there's the same kind of connector somewhere easily accessible, like the engine bay, so I can see exactly how it works and practice disconnecting it with one hand. I'm terrified of breaking it with it being 25 year old plastic.


Proving to be a bugger to disconnect!

 

Have you managed to have a look yet? I'm struggling to disconnect it with just touch alone as can't see it, and with restricted space just using fingers of one hand. Would love to know whether you have any better luck than me!

 

I got some general advise about connectors of that kind, which are hard to disconnect: It helped me a lot in the past to spray WD40 onto the closed connector from outside, That way the connector is more willing to disconnect. Also note: When I do that I wash my hands asap afterwards, because WD40 is not kind to my skin...

 

I might look over easter while I'm off work. I did try a few months ago & couldn't get it to move so left it till it was warm enough to lay on the floor so I could see what I was doing.

I'll update here if/when I do it. It's daft how such little things can be such a pain isn't it? I can pretty much rebuild an engine but am struggling with this connector as I can't see the damn thing to get it apart.

 

On the picture in post #5, I see a clip which looks like one of the Inner wheel arch liner trim fixing rivets. If the area that I have marked with a yellow circle is part of the wheel arch liner, removing the liner would probably provide good access to the connector.

 

Very true, I've thought about removing the arch liner too. Just hasn't been the weather for it as my XJR lives outdoors.

 

I'd rather not remove the wheel arch liner if I can help it, and not sure whether it would give much more room. After looking at the pics I'm sure I'll be able to find the release tab by touch alone, so will have a feel again later. Might be able to press the tab with little finger of right hand whilst pulling connector with thumb and first finger, or pressing tab with right hand and pulling cable with left hand.

 

I'm off work from tomrrow, if you've not solved it before me I'll post some pics/hints up.
I will probably soak the connector in WD40 if it doesn't want to play, I find it softens 20+year old dirt sticking things together quite well.

 

Bingo! It wasn't actually all that difficult once I'd worked out what to press "blind", and used my other hand to gently pull it out pulling on the wires: it came out quite easily.

 

Excellent, I'll try to replicate your success.

 

Best of luck! Would be really useful if you could show me pic of clip attached to wheel arch that cable tie attaches to. Just so I don't cut it by mistake. Cheers!

 

How did you get on?

 

Well, I did it! Wasn't that difficult after all. Here's hoping it works, as I had a look at the old wire and it seemed okay, and was showing continuity with multi-meter, but couldn't open it up to check the internal wiring.


Old

New

 

I took the old one completely apart including stripping the individual wires and there were no breaks at all. So it'll be a miracle if this works. Haven't driven it properly yet, but sat in it idling for 15 minutes and the ABS light hasn't come on. Fingers crossed.

It's an extremely tough outer wire, so I suspect it would only fail after a very high mileage.

 

Update: Took it for a good drive today and ABS light didn't come on (It had been intermittent but before replacement was coming on very quickly after resetting). Let's hope it's a permanent fix.
I just don't understand though as I stripped the old one right down to the bare wire and found no breaks. There was a really stiff cover over the sensor connector end and stripped that off and checked wires within. Whether it was the connector pins themselves slightly oxidised, but obviously they're completely covered from the air, or a break in the wire within the sensor connector itself, but there can't be any movement of that due to very stiff plastic covering wire at that end, and there's no movement of the wire going into connector the other end.
Any ideas? Bob? ...

 

I've not looked at mine yet, one of my bikes broke so I sodded about with that instead. That's got an imaginary* electrical fault too as all the parts test ok but it still throws fault codes.