I’m replacing all front bushings, ball joints, and wheel bearings on my 98 XJR.

No real issues on the bushings and ball joints, but the wheel bearings, on the other hand, look like a major project.

I have the hub and vertical link assembly on my bench. The sensor rotor has to come off to get the hub out. Anyone know how to do this?? I don’t have the special tools called for in the workshop manual. Can I get the tools somewhere? There doesn’t really seem to be a place to get the tools unless you’re a dealer. Anyone have suggestions for me? The forum search is not helping me much, although I’m sure this has been covered before.

Having the hub out doesn’t look like the end of my challenges, but I need to start there. I will likely have more questions. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

I've read a 2 in 12 point socket will work, and you can find those relatively cheaply. Otherwise it looks like there are aftermarket manufacturers that make that tool for about 90-100 bucks, google "abs rotor nut socket" and a bunch come up.

 

You are correct, it is quite a project. A few weeks ago I visited the Classic Car & Restoration show at the NEC in Birmingham. The Jaguar club was out there in force and they actually showed how to replace wheel bearings.

It required several special tools and a press too. Not sure about the USA, but in the UK you can hire the various tools you need.

The guy who did the demonstration had done it dozens if not hundreds of times. But even with the tools, it is quite the job. There are a few Youtube video’s out there on some DIY work without the tools, but they tend to break some bits.

Here is one that is a bit better with own tools:


Good luck

Jeroen

 

The socket itself can be had online in plenty of places, I think I paid about 60ish on ebay for mine. The only problem with a 2" socket, is going to be that you're going to really need some good stability to tighten it down all the way. I've seen videos where people show off how "easy" it is to use that instead of spending the money on the proper socket, and it's bouncing all over the place, and surely can't be good for the ring.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-ABS-...AAAOSw5EBa4QG3

 

As above you need the tool, that looks like the one i bought on eBay which worked perfectly. To undo and torque the nut you will probably need it mounted in the car to hold it.

 

Progress to report, thanks to all of the suggestions and YouTube ideas. Here’s how I got the ABS nut off:

I attached the hub to the wheel and snugged the lug nuts. Laid the wheel face down in the grass to avoid damage. Bought a 2” socket and let the impact wrench hammer away until the nut came loose. I applied good down pressure to the impact wrench as it hammered, to keep the socket from jumping off the notches. It took a while but it worked.

Dewalt 18 volt half inch impact wrench, FYI.

I still have to press the hub and wheel bearing out, but I’m getting there. Thanks for the tips and ideas so far.

 

I took the hubs to a truck garage. They had the right press to swap the bearings.

 

I used the hammer and chisel method to remove the nuts from mine, but if I had to do it again, I'd buy new nuts and use a cut off wheel to just cut them off.

The Harbor Freight $150/with Coupon, 20 Ton press is a great tool to own if you own a Jaguar.

I also bought the $90 ABS nut socket for install, but that is a "two man job". Unlike a regular socket, the Factory Socket needs about 150lbs of weight pressing the socket into the nut (someone standing on socket), in order to put over 150lbs of torque into the nut.

If you still have it apart later in the summer (hopefully not), I can bring my socket to Arnold, Nebraska for my annual SORC vacation.

 

I have yet to make it to the open road challenge. Every year I say I’m going to go, but I haven’t gotten there. Maybe I’ll get there this year!

Thanks for the offer, but the two inch socket worked like a charm for me. I did have to take one vertical link assembly to a truck repair shop. My small press is ok, but I didn’t have enough scrap steel for the assembly, so I used 2x4’s. They worked for one hub, but the other hub was stuck big time, and the press just crushed the wood. The truck place pressed it right out, then pressed out the bearing. I cleaned everything up and pressed in the new bearing and hub using my press. I should receive the other bearing tomorrow (was backordered), and I’ll get it all back together this weekend. I have replaced the ball joints and bushings on both sides, and I have reinstalled the control arms. I installed new bushings for the stabilizer bar too.

I’m replacing everything, but the actual problems were both lower ball joints, the left wheel bearing, and the stabilizer bar bushings. I’m also replacing the brake pads. The rotors look like new, and don’t need turning. Should be like new up front.

Really hasn’t been too bad. I have a lot of patience and I use the workshop manual and YouTube extensively, along with this forum. I bought the correct spring compressor tool, which cost a lot, but I’m glad I did. It worked great, and still much cheaper doing it myself than having it done at a shop.

I have an appointment at the alignment shop next week.

 

We haven't missed a SORC since the first one in 2001. My son was 3 for our first one and now he helps drive.

Your 2" Socket sounds like it works better than the factory tool at applying torque. I may have to look into that.

 

What are you driving this year? Your signature mentions a couple different Jags, do you normally drive one in the rally?

For the innocent bystanders to this conversation, the Sandhills Open Road Challenge is an annual rally style race event in Arnold, Nebraska. The course goes through the Sandhills of Nebraska.

Here is the link:

Home | Sandhills Open Road Challenge | Arnold, Nebraska

 

We have a 1986 Pontiac Grand Prix 2+2 with a 502 and a 6 speed that we have run there every year since 2002. I would like to build an XK8 Coupe, but mine is too nice to strip out and put a rollcage in, so I always have an eye out for the right car.

We have won the 115 mph class 5 times and know what it would take to win the 120 class (and our '86 isn't it). I think a 20 year old XK8 Coupe beating 10 nearly brand new 650 HP corvettes would be cool.

 

The front suspension project is done. The spring pans didn’t want to go back in place very evenly, but eventually I got it. Here are my impressions, for what it’s worth.

My car had aftermarket poly bushings in the lower control arms when I got it. The ride always felt harsh and jarring to me, beyond what a sport suspension should be. I replaced them with OEM replacement rubber bushings, even though they were in good shape. The poly bushings are supposed to last longer, but I wanted a better ride. The car reacts to bumps noticeably better now with the rubber bushings. My theory is that the poly bushings were rock hard, whereas the rubber bushings offer a little more cushion in the suspension system. I know the rubber bushings won’t last as long, but I’m ok with the trade off.

Since the lower ball joints were shot, I’m hoping the uneven tire wear will be fixed now. The new stabilizer bar bushings eliminated the clunk I was hearing. Also, new wheel bearings means no more scratch/squeak noises from the left front wheel.

Time will tell, but I’m happy for now. Thanks as always for the tips.