99 vdp
can anyone tell me where the fuel filter is located?

 

It should be above the left rear wheel and inboard. You'll need to remove the wheel. 20mm & 16mm stubby wrenches are needed. 13/16 & 5/8 will work, but the 13/16 is not the proper fit. Also, ensure you get two o-rings for ends of fuel lines when you purchase the filter. Just changed mine out last night 99xj8. Didn't know about the use of o-rings, and now I'm back peddling. A standard length 20mm will work, but you'll want a stubby 16mm to remove line fitting from filter. Don't forget to relieve pressure at the fuel rail, or at least wear safety glasses and wrap line with rag to slow up fuel spray.

Good luck.
Ralph

 

Welcome to the forum cb, +1 ^

 

thanks for the info. changed filter this morning was able to use 5/8 and vise grips.

 

cb, glad I could help. I've been taking away more information from the forum, than I've been contributing. Picked up my o-rings today so I get to due mine again. Good news is, I didn't charge the system.

Ralph

 

what is charge the system
im sorry i am new to alot of this stuff

thanks
jim

 

jimmm27

"charge the system" what I meant by that, was that I did not energize the ignition system by turning key to on/or start position, which would have pressurized the fuel system and filter. I did not want to do this, with the old o-rings in place, just would've made a mess relieving pressure when I removed filter to install new o-rings.

Ralph

 

thank you
i didn't know if you had to bleed the system like brakes

 

Where did you guys get the o-rings from? I bought a new filter but it didn't come with the o-rings. Also is it 1 or 2 o-rings? Thanks

 

newuser: The most expensive place in town....Jaguar dealer $4 and change a piece. You'll need two, one on each end of fuel lines. I wasn't about to match up something from the local parts store. You might try one of this forums sponsers, if you don't have a dealer close to you. Or as a last resort, at least get the part number, send me a private message, and we'll talk. I have two extra.
Ralph

 

I went to Oriley's auto parts. They had a large selection of o-rings behind the counter. About a dollar for both. If you want a dealer try JPAM they are a sponsor with good price and service.

 

Great info to all! Thank you. Engine light came on yesterday I was planning on changing the spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and oil, so that gave me a reason to start.

Put the spark plugs in this morning NGK iridiums, noticed a "pick-up" immediately upon acceleration. I did gap them according to the specifications from "Vehicle Spceifictions 1997-2004.5 - All models.pdf" that I found on this site.

The 1999 XJ8 park plug gap is 0.035 to 0.039...so I set them at 0.038.

The old plugs were Bosch +4, which I remember Gus saying that's what he was using (sorry Gus)...I know there was a reason I didn't get them (maybe they cost more...). The old plugs were not very fouled, however, there was some oil in each of the spark plug wells...about 1/2 a teaspoon in each, BUT it was NOT flowing into the cyclinders (it wasn't enough to do that).

The fuel filter was a bit harder because I'm working with the car on a floor jack and I didn't want to get crushed. LOL I did buy the dealer 0-rings at $6 a piece down in Palm Beach...again, I didn't want to get the wrong ones from Advanced Auto Now I have the old ones to compare for next time.

I did put a rag under the fuel rail in the engine compartment and released the fuel line pressure by pressing the valve (that looks like a tire valve stem) - that took about 8 - 10 seconds before nothing else came out.

Taking off the fuel filter was pretty easy in itself...there was still pressure however, and fuel sprayed a bit (I did put a rag around the fittings as I pulled them apart). Seems like when you get older, you don't take as many chances and I kept thinking that I was going to spark something and ignite the car and burn down the house (with the fuel tank sitting just above the fuel filter). Also, I guess the design engineers were inhaling Jag paint fumes when they installed the fuel filter over an exhaust pipe. I don't know...but the fuel filter is back in.

Anyway, I charged/primed the fuel system with a few ACC turns on the ignition. I heard the fuel pump run, then stop each time. I then started the car - started right up, check engine light still on

I did ask the guys at Advanced Auto if they had something to check the system with (check engine light on), they said they had nothing for my vehicle.

It's an amber check engine light, not red - I've only had the car for 4 months now, 96K miles, I love it and I'll look more for the check engine thing until I can get to a place that can run a diagnostics on it...the engine doesn't run as smooth as I think it should and maybe that's why the check engine is coming on.

Yes, I'm poor and can't always put ultra-premium rocket fuel which now costs two-arms and a kidney, so I'm using mid-grade. No extra fuel boosters.

Oh, I did spray out the MAF with carb spray...it was a little oily in the plastic air duct, no cracks or holes there.

Okay, off to pick up my better 3/4.

 

tempest: Glad to hear all the advice here helped. I would recommend getting a code reader. It will be worth it's weight in gold. There are plenty of posts about different types, etc. I have a $80(?) one from the MAC Tool Truck Model ET50. Very easy to use. I'm sure there are better ones out there for more money of course. When you do get to pulling the codes write them down and then clear them. Find another parts store, there's nothing special to pulling codes from these cars, and if they can pull them, they can be cleared also. You may have corrected the problem, or it may have corrected itself. Code gremlins come and go....some stick around a while though. Enjoy your ride!

 

Thanks Rae - I have been looking for an OBD2 that I can afford - next payday or so. In the meantime, I went back to AutoZone and they connected theirs. I received the following codes:

P1111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage

P1384 VVT Solenoid A Malfunction

(I'll check the forums for more on those codes).

After he disconnected the OBD2 (Actron Auto), and I started the car, the CEL went out!

While I was there, I did buy some CRC cleaners for the TB and the MAF, so I'll do those shortly.

I wanted to thank the forum for referring me to the "Do It Yourself" cleaning guide for the MAF HERE, at maxperformancecars.com. While I was following the guide, I found I had a completely blocked Part-Load Breather tube, which I cleared.

Okay, I have to get back to cleaning the house and building websites.



Cheers and I'll be back