Hi Crystal,

I'm sorry that the folks at iCarsoft can't be more helpful. I can offer just a few thoughts:

1. The most common causes of problems with seat movement functions are disconnected or corroded connectors under the seat, problems with the motor involved in a particular function, or problems with the switch. It is unlikely that a scan tool will be able to restore the seat tilt function.

It is relatively easy to access the electrical connectors by disconnecting the seat from the floor pan. There are screws at the front and rear ends of the two seat tracks. Off the top of my head I think you will need a Torx screwdriver or socket to remove them.

Typically, I'll move the seat all the way forward and remove the rear screws, then move the seat all the way rearward and remove the front screws. The seat can then be tilted back for access to the electrical connectors. Before disconnecting anything, turn the key to the OFF position and remove it from the ignition switch. It is also a good idea to disconnect the battery negative cable.

Disconnect the electrical connectors, flush them with zero-residue electronic cleaner spray, fit them together again and work them in and out, then flush them again and allow them to dry before reconnecting them. Check to see if there is a ground point below the seat and if so, remove the nut and wires and use a small brass-bristle brush and electronic cleaner to clean the threaded stud, eyelet terminals on the wires, any washers and the nut, allow to dry, then reassemble. The nut doesn't have to be overly tight, just good and snug so humid air can't make its way between the terminals, washer and nut.

After you've reconnected the electrical connections, but before you screw the seat back down, reconnect the battery, turn the key to position II (ON) and test the seat movement. If the seat back now moves properly, you're done. If not, you can test the seat back tilt motor by applying 12 volts directly to its terminals. The Electrical Guide shows which wires connect to the motor, and you just reverse the polarity to change the direction of motor movement.

2. Regarding your CEL after the timing chain work, the shop that did the work should scan that code and resolve it if it is related to engine timing. Their scan tool may also be able to read the code(s) causing the ABS warning lamp. Common causes of the ABS lamp are a problem with a wheel speed sensor or its wiring harness, or a problem with solder joints on the circuit board of the ABS module, which can often be repaired. You will need the codes in order to narrow down the diagnosis, and these codes are usually Chassis (C-prefix), Body (B-prefix) or Network (U-prefix) codes that are proprietary to Jaguar and cannot be read by most generic OBDII scanners. However, most good shops have advanced scan tools that may be able to read these codes, so if the shop that did your timing chains can read the ABS codes that may help you resolve the problem before you find a scanner for yourself.

I don't have any experience with the JLR version of the iCarsoft scanner. I have an older one for BMWs and it works fairly well on models up to E90. I was told by iCarsoft that if I updated the firmware I would lose the functionality for earlier BMW models. That may be the issue with their Jaguar scanners - perhaps in order to add functionality for later models they have had to reduce or eliminate functionality for older ones. You might also check with Autel and Launch to see if their more affordable scan tools can read Jaguar proprietary codes. My Autel MaxiSys Elite can read every DTC available on every Jaguar I've tested from X300 onward. I also have the Jaguar SDD program running on a laptop with a Drew Technologies Mongoose interface cable, which is capable of doing virtually everything a Jaguar dealer could have done when your car was new, but it's very slow by modern standards, so I mostly use the Autel now.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don B, thank you kindly. We will dive into your suggestions next weekend and pick up the necessary tools to make the adjustments. I'll call the mechanic to see if he is able to reset the CEL at the shop. Came on immediately after I filled up the car. As I mentioned, I replaced the old gas cap with an OEM model and I was hoping the light goes away, as mentioned in another thread.

You are most kind and quite informed. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thank you.

 

Does it go into ODBII diagnose? I get communication error on my 1998 X308.

 

I would be interested to know if this 930 unit can read IAT2 on supecharged X308s and the like