My NOS instructions say to put one of the ground wires to a location that can handle (gasp) 80 amps.

Are any of the bolts in this photo up to that task?

This photo is of the drivers front shock tower area.

 

Presuming that you are using properly sized wire, and that the lug is also properly sized ...

the shock tower bolts are not a good idea and the cross-member bolts are also not so great

this is because the lug must contact bare metal on its face.

Possibilities include the bolts holding the brake fluid reservoir bracket to the inner fender and the bolts holding the brake booster to the sheetmetal under the cover at the firewall.

In either case, you will have to remove the item, remove the paint down to bright metal, refasten in the following order: sheetmetal, lug, existing, bolt.

 

Perfect!

Thank you x 3

 

After thinking about it, I decided to run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to this wire instead, since this way I know I will have a very clean and solid connection.

 

That's the long way around.

It's been pointed out in automotive electrical articles that the body is capable of carrying much more current than any single wire.

If you want to go that far, just run the wire to the grounding point of the ground strap under the chassis on the right hand side underneath the car.

 

That is better.

I did not know the body was better. That will be easier.

 

You can also use any of the bellhousing bolts on the left hand side, just like the ground strap does on the right hand side. Be sure to clean off the mating surface with some sand paper.

 

Sorry, I have to ask - 80 amps, that's nearly as much as a starter, - or 400 solenoids, or are you going to tow a trailer full of nitrous bottles.
Only nitrous I have dealt with have a couple of solenoids, an additional fuel pump, and a couple of atomizers 6 or 7 amps,
I'm interested
Cheers,
DC

 

The "ground must be good for 80 amps" was from the instructions, but after looking at the unit itself, that obviously is overkill as the power feed wire to the unit is only a 14 gauge wire and the ground wire is 12 gauge, so it can't possibly use that much power.

The unit is designed to handle 4 solenoids under continuous duty. I will be using 3, 2 in series for the NOS, and one for fuel.

 

That's insane - average 12 volt relay draws under 0.2 amp on 100% duty cycle. You might have to put a couple of solar panels on the roof --
Cheers, I know you are only following manufacturers instructions

 

I saw in some pictures that you had a Nitrous Express setup but in here you are mentioning NOS. Which solenoids are you running? NOS or NXE?

NOS Solenoids have very lower power requirements, not sure about NX.

 

My entire system is Nitrous Express.

Proton System
3 NX solenoids total at one time +1 solenoid for purge valve that makes that "Pssst, buddy, you just bit off more than you can chew" sound to the car in the next lane
Boost referencing controller
remote bottle opener

I have no idea why they were asking for a ground capable of 80 amps, since the power feed wire is only 14 gauge, so the power requirements must be less than 25 amps IRL.

 

Yeah the 80 amp rating must be a "don't blame us if you burn your car to teh ground" thing.

If they are using individual grounds any body point is fine, use star washers and start with a clean contact - check for resistance to be sure and then don't worry about it.

I have run nitrous in many cars from vintage to modern and have never worried about ground amperage load.

 

Decimal point missed out?.....possible 8.0 Amps?? Allan