I dropped a valve in my '01 XJR 3 months ago and have deceided to install a used motor from a local junkyard with only 64k ($1,500) and $1,500 labor. It will be warenteed for 101 days which I think is fair. First of all, within reason, what should I have done to the motor before it is installed? Also, they are only giving me $75 for the core charge so I am going to keep the original motor for parts (97.000 miles).
Thanks for your input.

 

How does one "drop a valve" ??

 

I just want somesuggestions on what I should do to the motor I'm putting in. Not any damn critcism.

 

I will give you a suggestion. On a forum, there is give and take of information. So if want information and someone asks for information, you give it to them without being a butt-hole.

 

I honestly do'nt think that was your objective.

 

Well, I am not yeldogt, but, unlike me, I do not know of him to bait anybody, so I doubt he started with you.

As to your question, I would suggest you mention the year of your transplant engine. There are some differences.

In any case, I would pull the front cover to examine the primary and the secondary tensioners, unless the engine has a build date after Aug 15, 2001, in which case it should have the new arrangement. The water pump is cheap enough and you don't know what condition the engine sat in before you got it. I assume you are going back with your TB and SC, but I guess that is a crap shoot. Obviously, plugs, hoses and belt tensioners should be examined while you are at it.

The knock sensors are a pain to change on that engine once installed, so I would either change them or at least examine them for micro cracks around the top side. They are a known weak point and if you do an archive search, you will find a recommendation for a later part number with a slightly longer wire that comes at half the price (about $45.00 each as I recall). You should definitely change the hoses that run under the SC back to the TB because they, too, are cheap and a major pain in the *** to change later.

So, now may I ask for a civil answer to how you got it overheated enough to drop a valve? It is fairly uncommon, but not unheard of around here, so yeldog and I are probably not the only ones who would like to know!

 

Thanks for your reply. Sorry about my earlier response but I have asked qestions before on this forum and some people want to beat me up and ridicule me instead of helping me. The engine will fit. My engine code is over the 30000 last five digits so it is a late 2001 motor. This is out of a 2002 XKR. I had issues with the car overhearing since I bought the car last August and replaced some hoses then it started leaking at the octopus hose. I tried to repair the hose but finally broke down and bought a new one. I had someone put it in with a thermostat and water pump. I don't know if it was done correctly or not but within 2weeks the engine majorly overheated and quit. A local Jag shop took the valve covers off and saw what he said was a dropped valve. He was also very supperised. The cost to rebuild the heads? was a fortune and not knowing why it overheated would not be a smart choice. $3000 for a guarenteed motor sounded much better to me.

 

Jan:
OK- others will probably chime in with other things to check. I was not asking abut the year of the replacement because of fittment- rather becasue the different year models have different weak points. I am not sure from your reference to the number that it is a post August 2001 engine, but if it is, it should have the new metal tensioners and the improved Morse style primary chain.

Not to belittle you, BUT there is some confusing information in your previous posts. About 3 months ago, you seemed to indicate you had a tensioner failure and that was the cause of the head problem. Now it seems it might be an overheat. Can you clarity that for us?

If you sit back and think about it, not getting to the tensioners is pretty reckless for anyone who has even given this forum a passing visit. I am quite sure those poking you were doing so in an effort to wake other people up who might be living on borrowed time, so to speak.

And... BTW, most of us have made some pretty bone headed choices related to our cars, although many will not admit it. But sucking it up and admitting occasional stupidity can help others understand where the landmines are.

Good luck with your engine transplant. Hopefully, this will get the bad luck with your car behind you and you can start enjoying the R!

 

I take it you dropped a valve seat ... common result of overheating the v8.

When the job is done make SURE the bleed hoses are connected at the header
tank in the correct configuration. These have been known to be reinstalled wrong
resulting in coolant puking out of the system.

stuff:

- valley heater hoses
- supercharger snout drive
- clean oil pickup screen
- waterpump
- upper tensioners
- lower tensioners since it will never be any easier for access
- sparkplugs
- belts
- idler/belt tensioner pulleys

 

Thanks! As far as the tensioner issues... a little bit of knowlege is dangerous. When the engine died, the small garage that I coasted into told me the timing chain broke. After a few days they 'did some research' and figured the tensioners must have failed and it jumped a tooth because the car would start but barely run very very rough. That is where that older tensioner post came from. Bad information. I then had it towwedto the 'Just Jags' shop here in St. Petersburg who diagnosed the problem.

 

Thanks for the defense sparkenzazp ... It was an honest question. Had the OP mentioned the overheating I would have better understood the situation.

Replace the hoses under the supercharger -- price out the knock sensors from an online dealer. You have a new octopus -- replace any other hoses that look suspect .. including any of the small bleeder hoses going back to the tank -- none are expensive. Check and use the correct clamps if you need to replace. The hoses to the SC are normally OK.

Change the SC oil while it is off the engine.

I never use aftermarket thermostats on any car .. ever -- IMO spend the extra $20.00. I feel the same way about the coolant -- its another $20.00.

The 02 engine's water pump should be fine. I can't remember any of my friends replacing a late one -- but I would never go aftermarket on this part either. Give it a spin as well as all the other things that can turn.

Check the alternator and starter wires and connections. Look over the motor mounts.

I would check to see if the plugs are original or if replaced with the correct ones.

Other then the tensioners -- It't all about the cooling system. Hunt down one of the TSB's that describe refilling the system and follow it. I tell my mechanic -- don't start the car and walk away from it -- the car needs to be watched until it warms up and you know the fluid is correct and the fans are working. It's not a 70's GM V8 that can steam away for 1/2 hour.

Always check the online dealer prices before going elsewhere. Some Jaguar parts are crazy expensive others are not.

 

NAPA 33948 *is* the same as the factory thermostat. It is a reboxed Waxstat,
exactly the same as what came out.

I'm now running a aftermarket 160*F thermostat and the engine
likes it just fine.

 

The OE (AJ86484) is made by Waxstat UK - 64C - includes gasket. I have seen some that claim to be the same -- but I know they are not because of the weight. I can't comment on the NAPA -- it may well be.

My original 02 that I bought new still has the original thermostat in it -- the system has never been opened other then 3 refreshes through the radiator. I have a new one on the shelf for the other.

Lots of cars killed by bad/ cheap thermostats -- it's not worth the trouble to save $20.00 Same with fluids IMO. It's easy to get wholesale prices on the parts.

I'm in a group with lots of old Jaguars -- we don't have cooing issues. A few easy steps .. thats all it takes. That's why we all stay away from the early cars with the bad pumps -- most have been played with too much.

 

You will never know how many very knowledgeable forum participants read this and decided to pass on offering advice. They just won't post at all!

 

I am certain you took the previous advice or questions the wrong way. We don't allow anyone, newbie or not, to be beaten up or ridiculed on this forum, ever.
Vector

 

If you feel you are being treated unfairly there is always the report post button at the top right of every post which will notify the mods.

 

I guess I never noticed the POST 'WARNING sign'.

bob.

 

Replace the waterpump, rear main oil seal, valve cover gaskets along with the bolt seals that hold them down and just above the rear main is a 17mm Allen plug that has a washer that leaks oil.
Good luck!

 

I am going to suggest that you replace the engine front mounts while the engine is out. They are a hydraulic unit. I found that both of mine were failed when I had to change an engine.

 

It is also a good idea, once your replacement engine is installed and you are up and running to keep an eye on the coolant temperature with Ultragauge, Torque or RealGauge and enable an alarm the instant you begin to go over a normal temperature. The factory gauge is a 'feel good' device that does not indicate actual temperature until it is nearly too late. (Full disclosure...I have designed and sell RealGauge)