I've been dealing with an intermittent ASC not available, TRAC not available fault with the ABS light also coming on.

Thus far I have:
1. Cleaned all 4 wheelspeed sensors, after I did this the fault did not come up for a few weeks, then it did come back
2. somewhat checked the wiring of the wheelspeed sensors, I tugged on the wires to see if there was any obvious lack of connection, since I did this the fault has only come on once.

I know it could be the ABS circuit board in the engine compartment but I don't want to mess with that unless I really need to, and I have trouble believing it could have cooked itself considering my low miles and garage kept situation.

I need to get a scanner that can read C-codes so I know what the issue is

I know autoenginuity would do the job but I don't like to mess around with a laptop in the garage.

I saw in the craftsman catalog this codescanner, in the catalog picture it had a c-code on the screen.
I think it may work for c codes since in the item description seems to indicate it can read many in-depth codes
sears codescanner:

CanOBD2® ABS+SRS Scan Tool- Craftsman-Tools-Auto & Mechanics Tools-Diagnostic Tools & Testers

does anyone have experience with one of these? I didn't see it mentioned in the thread about approved codescanners.

does anyone that is more familiar with the specifics of the computer system think this scanner has a shot at being able to deal with jaguar's C-codes?

thanks in advance

 

I kind of doubt it will work for Jaguars. I have seen other scanners which say they do ABS codes, but turns out to be only for US cars.

 

that's probably true, I might give it a try, worst thing that can happen is it doesn't work and I have to return it

 

UPDATE: scanner does not read C-codes

 

It blew my mind, but when I ran a generic OBDII scan on my PCM with my old snap on mt2500, it read a C code. This eventually allowed me to fix the problem (broken wires inside the insulation on the RR wheel speed sensor.)

 

that's lucky, I wish I had one of those

 

UPDATE: Got the codes read by an excellent independent european car shop for $50, came up with a c1095. So I bought this on e-bay and sent it off.

Jaguar Ate Teves Rebuild ABS Ebcm Antilock Brake Control Module Repair LNF2210AD | eBay

yes I could have soldered it myself but I figured it was worth $50 to get a lifetime warranty.

Turnaround was good but not good enough if this is your only car. I sent the module out on a thursday morning, and got it back friday evening of the next week, so I was without the car for a week. they do offer enhanced shipping options, but it costs more. My XJR isn't my primary car, so I went the cheap shipping route

Taking the module out is a struggle, I used the bend the brake lines method, which is scary but it did work. there is no good way to get to any of the screws that you have to undo, so it's a very frustrating process, but if you take your time you get there eventually. Also, remember that there are two plugs going into the module, one with a bunch of pins, and the power which is just two pins. you can't obviously see the power one but it's there.

When I was putting my module back into the car, everything went smoothly except for getting the brake lines back into place and the plug with a bunch of pins. somehow two of my pins on the module were way out of line, and prevented the connector from going on. Once I got out a borescope i could look closely at the pins and see the two that were misbehaving. Once i bent those back into place the connector went on like a dream.

The stupid plastic clip devices that jaguar uses to secure the brake lines into those rubber donuts are not well designed for the engine compartment heat. one of mine broke in half, so I used a zip tie to re-secure it.

so far no abs/trac light, but I haven't driven the car much, I will update this thread once I have a few thousand miles on the rebuilt module

 

OIbviously it would not be prudent to recommend driving the car without ABS, but the brakes work just like they do with a faulted ABS with the module removed (as long as you hooked the lines back up!).

 

I completely agree with you on all of that, but I didn't want to have water/road grime getting on all the metal prongs coming out of the abs pump