i have a 98 jaguar XJR

My tail lamps stopped working. I took it into a jaguar shop. They claim that there is something called a "SCP network". They want 2-3k dollars in parts and labor to remove seats carpet and my dash to try and trace down the problem with no guarantee of fixing it. Dose anyone any have information on the SCP network? Diagrams? component locations? The fsm only shows 1 picture and dose not talk about it to much.

What scan tool can I use to pull codes from the SCP network? what is the difference between the CAN network and the SCP network? A friend of mine has a matco determination i don't know if this can pull the necessary codes. I think something in the network is shorted also because my battery keeps going dead on me.

 

(SLCM) module is part of the SCP network & affects lights.

Code reader info here for the SCP network.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...reader-132900/

 

Figure 19.1 as well as the last few pages http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1998.pdf

 

I have viewed the fsm. thank you nilanium. I don't see my messaged listed. Can someone please un-abbreviate these abbreviated modules

INST = intermittent pack
BPM = body processing module
DDCM = drivers door control module
PDCM = Passenger door control module
DSCM
PSCM
DRDCM
PRDCM
SLCM security locking control module

The book only is showing these modules. The shop I took my car to told me there are 26 different modules that could have shorted. I have already had the SLCM rebuilt. Is it true if I replace one of these it has to be programed with some kind of scan tool?

The code I am showing on the dash sais rear brake lamp I don't see a listing for it. Maybe I'm just old and blind.

Locations of these modules would also be great. How do I tell if one of these modules is bad?

wow wait what the hack

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...s/680_1998.pdf

 

DSCM = drivers seat control module
PSCM = passenger seat control module
DRDCM = drivers rear door control module
PRDCM = passenger rear door ctrl module

I'm making a big assumption that you and the shop have looked into the brake switch?
Unless the shop who rebuilt the SLCM is very reputable, I would question it's functionality. In other words don't dismiss what's been replaced especially now since you have a wiring diagram.

 

2-3K means they don't really want to do it.

Try to find the power drain as it'll likely lead to the fault. There are lots of posts about chasing drains and you don't really need an OBD tool just a meter and so on

If you then want to chase the network it may be much harder and you'll spend on a OE-type tool, not just OBD. Avoid this if you can as it'll probably be a major pain - though if you can find codes in some modules they might steer you.

 

I hadn't seen that electrical training guide before (the 680_1998.pdf), I didn't realize that there was a training guide available that's on the level of the engine repair course guide. Lots of good info in there.

 

Quoting an inflated price is a common ploy to chase unwanted repair jobs away. I went through that years ago when I was trying to find a shop that would rebuild my '56 Cadillac's transmission. Good luck with your problem.

 

thank you guys for all the love. :-) I'm going figure out this problem come hell or high water.

I think one of the modules is shorted. gota be. something is draining the battery hardcore. brand new battery.

Yes I have replaced the breake pedal switch with a brand new one cost me 200 bucks.

I have to figure out what scan tool can talk to scp modules before I drop some coin on one. There is a dude selling a factory jaguar land rover tool on ebay for 800 bucks. laptop with cable. I dont know.

 

I think the autoenginuity package with Jaguar enhanced is still below $500 if you already have a laptop. I have been using it for years.

 

can someone tell me were my keyless module is located on my jaguar?

 

Under the fuse box in the trunk (or boot). That's the SLCM.

 

no no I have already had my slcm rebuilt im talking about there is a module in the mm dash for the keyless

 

Recently had my tail lights stop working because of a bad BPM. It was my own fault, as I had replaced the taillights with LED replacements and used a 6 ohm power resistor in parallel with the lights to keep the "bulb out" message away. This resistor drew too much power from the BPM (tail lights are powered directly from the BPM, while the brake lights are powered indirectly through a relay). Replaced it with a good used BPM and the tail lights worked again.

 

Sounds like you need to get it rebuilt again..............

 

INST = Instrument pack

The shop's assessment that your problem has to do with the Serial Communications Protocol network may or may not have been correct, so it would be prudent to begin the diagnosis again.

Reading the diagnostic fault codes as King Charles recommended is a good first step, but it will require a scanner capable of reading the proprietary Jaguar network codes (U prefix) and possibly some C (Chassis) and B (Body) codes as well. Typcial generic OBDII scanners can only read the P (Powertrain) codes and some CAN-related info.

The Electrical Guide contains the wiring schematics for the tail lamps and the SCP network, and you can download it here:

Jaguar X308 Electrical Guide 1998

If the codes don't give you a clue as to where the malfunction may be, you could try a traditional approach by starting at the tail lamps and working backward up the wiring diagram. When you find the point where the correct power for the tail lamps is present, the previous component with no power is your prime suspect.

Cheers,

Don

 

Is the upper brake light (the one in the rear window) lighting up when the brake is applied?

Are both lower rear brakes working?

Read again Don's instruction in #16. Print out the electrical diagram and start tracing the signals. It sounds all the world like the SLCM or a connection to the SLCM (is the upper brake light working? If so, look to the SLCM. If not, it is between the brake switch and the rear connectors). I didn't see who rebuilt your SLCM, but you might give them a call and ask for advice, the guys in Idaho (I faintly remember) guarantee their work, so they will not want it returned for a failure to install it properly, and will check grounds, straps, wiring, etc.

I appreciate how frustrating this is (check some threads, you will see me and that frustration); but wasting $3000 is more than the car is worth unless you have tons of new parts that can be mined.