Hi All:

I know this has been covered before, but I’ve searched the forum and elsewhere, and still have a couple of questions; if I may…

I have one working key for my 1999 XJ8 (VIN: SAJHD1049XC878441). I’ve only had one key for 17 years, but a few years back, I got a key cut, but never got ‘round to programming.

So now, I have SDD V130 and Mongoose cable. I’m a newbie with IDS, but I’ve successfully read the trouble codes (and cleared them), and found the Security setting for Transponder Programming.

Question 1: Do you have to reprogram (with IDS) the working key at the same time as the new key?

If so,
a. Do you always have to have 2 keys, IOW’s, if I lost my good key, could I program the new key, without another new key?

b. Or, do you need a “good” key? (I assume this is a hard "No”, otherwise, you could never start the car again, right?)

c. Which key do you start programming with, old or new? (I assume it doesn’t matter.)

In summary, I think all keys (be it 1 or 5 max) must be programmed in the same session, and doesn’t matter if old or new.

Is this correct?

Sorry, this is probably obvious as hell to anyone who has done it. But, I’ve heard horror stories of “bricking” the car-- mostly sounds like user error, like low battery. As mentioned I’m a novice with IDS, but have experience programming my Mercedes… I know just enough to be dangerous…

Next question:

I’ve always thought my car was a 2000, but my VIN confirms it is a 1999. I’ve never had a problem when ordering parts for a 2000 rather than a 1999. But, apparently, there is a difference in the keys—a distinction that seems to be lost on the sellers of key blanks and the corresponding transponders (many assume 1997-2003 are the same).

Motorcarman (fellow Texan, who’s advice I trust) provided these part #’s for the keys:

The HNA7230AA1 is for sedans EXCEPT ROLLING CODE To VIN (878717).

The HJD7230AA1 is for sedans ROLLING CODE From VIN (F00035).

I don't know what ROLLING CODE is, but I assume I don’t have it. And, with that VIN (for the HNA) and my car’s VIN, I've meticulously calculated my car is the 276th, to the last, made for the HNA key....Who knew???

Here’s where I get a little deep into the weeds…

Question 2: Does anyone know the correct chip for a 1999 XJ8?

I’ve seen:
a. Megamos ID 13
b. T5
c. ID 48 (glass)
d. T5-ID48
e. T5-20



Here’s the chip in my new key:


(Eiffel Tower is not actual size...)

My new chip looks like a T5, but has no markings whatsoever. Here’s my dilemma: I don’t remember what new key I ordered (1999 or 2000 MY), and the sellers don't seem to know which transponder is correct for my MY!

To be safe, I ordered another new key (uncut) which, allegedly, is a HNA7230AA1 (advertised as for the 1997-1999 XJ8), and has a “Megamos 13" chip. So, I will soon have my good key, a cut blank, and two transponders (a Megamos 13 and, possibly, a T5). My dilemma is which chip to use in the new key, or do I just try each and see what happens? (Sorry, that’s three questions...)

Just a WAG (wild-***-guess), but I think the difference between the 13 and T5 is cloneable or not. Does that mean the 13 is not programmable? (Oops, that's four questions…)

And, do I have enough hardware (good key, new cut key and two transponders) to safely attempt key programming? (Oops, that's five questions…)

(Sidebar: I’ve tested my new blank, with the transponder removed, and it starts the car with the old key held next to the new key. So, there is always Plan B: Permanently mount the old key in the steering column, near the ignition barrel, and use as many new, chip-less, cut keys as I want. Is this, perhaps, the safest alternative to key programming?)

Thanks to all contributors, and anyone who attempts to answer my two… err, 5-6… questions.

Regards… Mark on South Padre Island

 

all keys must be present, 1 key minimum. these are impossible to screw up

id13 blank for your model, chip form factor doesn’t mean anything when you’re dealing with china

 

2000 MY onward for North American X100/X308 use MEGAMOS 48 Rolling Code.(From VIN (F00035))

As xalty stated, the onscreen instructions will guide you.
ALL KEYS MUST BE PRESENT, ALL KEYS NOT PRESENT WILL BE DELETED, DO YOU WISH TO CONTINUE? (hit 'tick' Y N)

 

Local locksmith had a new key and fob, programmed both (and my single originals) for $245. He only needed the VIN to find the right key.

 

Many thanks for those answers. With them, I can proceed, with less apprehension, to the key programming; just waiting on the alternate chip (supposed to be a Meganos 13) to come in the mail. (Only because I'm not sure of what chip I currently have.)

For completeness: I had my key cut (without programming), a few years ago, by mailing a generic blank to (formally) Barnett Jaguar in San Antonio (maybe, Jaguar of San Antonio, today???), with a return envelope. I only had to include a copy of the title (and the uncut key) and they cut based on ownership, and mailed it back to me. IIRC, it was only about $35…

Since then, I’ve learned (again, with credit to Motorcarman), Anyone, who can cut a Tibbe key, can cut the key with either a pic of the key or the key code. Attached is the Jag key-cut code reading procedure—Fascinating!

(Sidebar: It occurred to me, perhaps my nefarious side, that all this anti-theft tech is pretty much BS… Anyone with a laptop and a pic of your key (or keen eye) can make a “good” key for these “old” Jags… "Gone in 60 Seconds"... Not to encourage such behavior... You can have my Jag, if you point a butter-knife at me!!!)

Again, for completeness (and again, with credit to Motorcarman): Here's the thread where I posted my journey to setting up the laptop for SDD V130:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...ftware-240209/

So, I hope this thread answers the many questions one seeking DIY key replacement may have. One Stop Shop, so to speak. And, I apologize, in advance, if your X308 is missing from your driveway in the morning... Keep those keys in your pocket or purse, and don’t leave them in sight of strangers at the Bar… Ha Ha…

With the warmest of Regards… Mark

 

That .pdf (76-64) is the one I made from a paper TSB from the early 1990s. You can see it was on a copy machine (dark edges) and converted to a JPEG and then a .pdf.
Adobe Acrobat 4.0 was used for the final electronic document at the time the .pdf was made from the TSB.

 

Finding a locksmith capable of cutting and programing 8 cut tibbe keys can be a daunting task. When you find one
it might be good to make 2 or three backup keys because you never know what might happen.

 

here is my case and just happened with in last month.

my Jaguar only came with one "black" key for all of these years since I got my XJ in 2008. always wanted to make an extra. I want an OEM jaguar key.

last year , I got the correct "precut" key from Terrysjag. needed to provide them my owner proof document.

I tried a few local lock smiths but only even bother to attempt programing it. the guy said he didnt have the Jaguar dealer software to program it successfully even he could "access" into the system.

i ended up going to Jaguar Manhattan dealership paying one hour labor 299+tax. I actually left the car to them the full day ( saved my parking fee) and they washed my car in and out and did a complimentary inspection( according to them) . I am ok with that for ONE TIME only service.

 

$299 from a dealer is quite a deal. My dealer here wants $450 and refuses
to touch any key but his, for which he only wants an additional $150.
Going there asking to program a pre-cut key was like asking a blind
man to point to something yellow.

 

wasn't that bad for one time deal at 299..I guess...I called a few other Jaguar dealerships and some dont even bother...they either told me they wont program the key not cut by them ( mine is an OEM genuine jaguar key) nor they didn't even have the equipment because X308 is just too old. come on...Jaguar is an old brand with a long history....they don't except people bringing in like their old E type for service ...

I dropped off the car to them a whole day...I saved my parking money for one day in midtown Manhattan, they washed my car in and out...

it was not that bad...

 

Final Report:

My total cost for a DIY additional key was under $100, including key blank, cutting, and setting up SDD V130 and Mongoose cable (laptop not included). However, it took about 2 months to pull it off.

When I last reported, I was waiting on another key blank to make sure I had the correct transponder for 1999. With help from Motorcarman and Xalty, I think we can confirm Meganos ID13 is correct for 1997-1999 vehicles, and Meganos ID48 is for 2000 up. My VIN shows it’s one of the last 1999 made at VIN 878441.

So, for completeness, here’s the procedure to program the key(s) when you have the cut key and the proper transponder (along with ALL old and new keys):

Go to the tab in IDS (arrowed) and the highlighted section:


That will take you to Security:


And, IDS will take you through the rest:





This is pretty idiot-proof…

(Sidebar: Recall I got 2 transponders because I wasn’t sure what MY transponder I had for my new key, as described in posts #1 and #5. The transponders look identical, see pic in post #1. So, I had one known good key, one new cut key, and 2 transponders (one of unknown type and one known to be ID13). First, I programmed 2 keys; the known good key, and the cut key with the known correct transponder. Next, I tried three keys; switching the unknown chip for the ID13 chip. It Didn’t Work--- Now, I might have exceed the 30 second limit described in the 5th pic above, I can’t say for sure, but there was no audible tone in either case… The good news is, both keys as programmed in the first attempt, DID Work! So, this really is pretty idiot proof—Just make sure when ordering your key blank, it comes with the correct transponder. Many sellers group MY 1997-2003 together; which is obviously incorrect. The Good News is, you can't really screw it up if you have a known good (or known programmable) key. And, my advice is, program the good key First…)

And, one more comment: Everyone should use Motorcarman’s PDF in post #5 to record their Key Cut Code… That way, even with no keys at all, you can still, with enough time and effort, start your car… eventually…, and not necessarily at the whims of the nearest dealership...

Many thanks to all contributors for the help, and I hope this thread can help others... IMHO, having as many trouble-free Jag's on the road as possible, benefits us all...

Regards… Mark

 

A very good final outcome!
Thanks for the screen shots of what to do. Very helpful.
.
.
.

 

From where, did you acquire the Mongoose cable please?

 

Sure. I don't think Drew Tech makes the MongoosePro for JLR anymore... I bought a Mangoose from OBDII365.com for $40. Took a couple of weeks to get here, but I ordered in the middle of the Chinese New Year celebration. So, it may ship faster today.

See also, the link in post #5 for more info on the setup...

Regards... Mark