My 1999 XJR has developed a number of electrical problems as a result (I think) of a long term leak in the boot\trunk, which unfortunately I have just noticed. The problems are these:

First problem was the key fobs stopped working. I tried replacing batteries and reprogramming but this wouldn't work. Locking works fine with the key, but none of the buttons work.

Second problem was the locks unlocking during driving, of their own volition.

Next problem was issues with the boot/trunk. The buttons to open (both internal next to steering wheel and external on the boot/trunk itself) stopped working. I have to unlock using the key. Also, the warning light would come on saying boot lid open.

Finally, the indicators are now flashing at double speed, but all indicator lights are working normally.

Today I found a large amount of water in the boot/trunk by the spare wheel. I cleared it out and located a very small hole. I think it must have been there for many months given the amount of water that had accumulated. What should I use to plug the hole? It cannot be accessed internally because its obscured by a plate.

I removed the SLCM. There was some moisture inside. Can I try to dry it out and see if this works? If I get a replacement, will this resolve some /all of the above issues?

 

SLCM controls security and locking/closure so all of your issues (other than the indicators) are most probably due to problems in the SLCM caused by moisture. I would certainly first try drying the module. You can keep it in the oven for a couple of hours at 70-80 C or go over it by a hot air gun (do not overheat).

The fast flashing of the indicators is usually when one of the bulbs burns. In your case, you may have somewhat poor contacts on the rear indicator bulbs due to corrosion caused by the moisture in the boot. Take the bulbs out and inspect them as well as their sockets.

 

I tried drying out the SLCM, and reinstalled, but it doesn't seem to have solved any of the problems. I can find a spare SLCM on ebay with the same VCATS number for about £30, so I will get that. Before I do, is it worth trying a hard reset? Is that a matter of holding the negative battery cable connector to the positive for about 30 seconds?

 

The battery should be disconnected whenever anything related to car's electronics is disconnected or re-connected. You can reset the systems if you disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes. Some prefer to also touch the positive cable terminal with the (disconnected) negative terminal. This probably does nothing as the Jaguar "Service Training Course 682" defines the "Hard Reset" as "Disconnect the negative cable of the battery for at least 60 seconds; Reconnect the battery negative cable" (no instruction to touch the battery terminals).

 

After drying out and reinstalling the SLCM, the boot button started working intermittently, although seems to have stopped working again now.

When I try to reprogram the key fob (full beam, ignition to 1, 4 flashes) , it bleeps to indicate it is in programming mode, but doesn't respond when I press the key fob.

Where does this leave me?

 

Hi X308XJR1999. Somewhere on the Forum there's an interesting post telling you how to use very small pieces of silver foil super-glued to the fob buttons. Certainly I tried it and it's worked since I did it nearly 2 years ago! However, there is also some posts where people have managed to purchase alternative fobs with much success, there's even some on how to clean the internals of the fob to get them working. Without doubt, from an electrical point of view, M Stojanovic will give you great advice, I remember he posted about using different batteries (3V versus 6V) and explained how the frequency of the fobs differ but both voltages will work.

If you have dried out the SLCM and it's 'made a difference, good or bad, sounds to me like you're on the right track?
Paul

 

I doubt it's a problem with the key fob. I had switches installed by Fingaz Fobs about 3 years ago because the contacts were in such bad condition(had even tried the silver foil trick). The switches work(ed) perfectly - Fingaz fobs highly recommended if you have bad contacts.

The antenna is plugged into the SLCM and appears to be OK at the top of the rear windscreen.

What could be causing the problem?

 

I suggest you go through another SLCM drying procedure. The best way is keeping it in an oven (70-80C) for a few hours. Prior to that, I would liberally "wash" the PC board with a contact cleaner spray to dislodge any corrosion residue. Some deeply soaked-in moisture cannot be removed by drying over a short period of time. After drying, inspect the PC board (both sides) for any remaining powdery oxidation residue and brush it off. If you are lucky, the SLCM will start working normally again.