So I got some mouse damage. Seventeen clean, precision cuts. Absolutely amazing. They should train mice to defuse bombs. "Cut the blue wire for a piece of cheese." Of course this particular trained mouse is dead now because I exploded! At first I thought the critter left me enough pigtails to work with, but no, upon closer inspection, two wires are cut off even with the back of the plug. My hobby is restoring classic cars and so I've done a bit of rewiring before. On some automotive plugs, I've been able to de-pin them, solder a new wire to the old pin (or replace a damaged pin) and re-insert it. But this plug type is unfamiliar to me. Before I mess with it and make things worse, does anyone know how to remove the male pins from the 54 pin connector at LF3?


For those curious, this is the forward harness that basically runs all the lights and stuff at the front of the car. Many of these run ground signals back to the Body Processor Module under the dash. So if all of a sudden you have no headlights, parking lights, turn signals, etc, and all the fuses and relays are fine, look under the left front fender by the A pillar for mouse damage. I read a bunch of threads where people were suspecting a bad body processor module when their lights failed and I kind of wondered if they ever checked here for wiring harness damage.

 

Phil I think if you look here you will see what you need. WSM should be checked but the instructions for pin replacement could well be found in bulletins. https://www.jcna.com/shopimages/tool...ls-2000-on.pdf

 

That is absolutely astonishing! Most of those types of pins have spring clips that keep them secure
in the socket, but it might take some precision tweezers to remove them. I have had to do that myself.

 

Well, one of those very cheap de-pinning sets on Amazon with a bazillion different keys contained some that worked a treat so those two close shaves are fixed. Next I just have to decipher and trace which wires should attach to which as there are three reds, two white w/black tracer and two orange w/green tracer all cut off the same length and the same precise diagonal like some kind of surgical mouse.

 

All fixed. But one of the cut WB's was at pin 14 and I couldn't find anything marked LF3-14 anywhere in the electrical diagrams. The only other WB that was cut went to the ECM and was shown as LF3-21 so after tracing that one, I connected the last unknown wire by process of elimination. If anyone happens to know what that wire at LF3-14 does, its got my curiosity going. But from now on, I'm rooting for Tom to catch and EAT Jerry.

 

Yes sir, Jerry needs a change of diet, or maybe be part of one.

 

Good work! Can you post what de-pinning kit you got?
I have a selection but it never seems to be the right ones?
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I have used this one with good results....Your mileage might vary.

 

I have seen those and for $18 I think I will take a chance. Heck just one use and they have paid for themselves.
I have a whole box of these type of things so one more won't hurt!
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I used this one:


And actually used two of the little keys, one on either side of the pin (see picture above) as none of the two-pronged keys were made specifically to fit. I suppose that's why the kit had in this case two identical single-prong keys. But what do I know? It worked and next time I have to do something like this, maybe I won't be using my eyeglass screwdrivers anymore.

 

Yes, sometimes we have to improvise, and I still use the eyeglass screwdriver for various things.