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NOT a FOB programming question....But A FOB operation question
My FOB behaves erratically at times. Sometimes, from a distance of <50 feet, I can unlock the car using the FOB. The lights will flash, i "think" I hear the horn sound 1x and ALL doors will unlock. But that action doesn't work ALL the time. Most of the time, but not ALL of the time.
At other times, I can be 1 foot from the driver door, attempt to unlock all doors and all I hear is a single beep (not the horn) and NO lights flash.
Whe doing so, the passenger doors and driver side REAR door will unlock, but the driver door remains locked. I have to manually unlock the driver door with the key.
Not a big deal, I can live with it BUT, it I want to understand why that's happening.
Do you only have one FOB?
Have you used the hard key and done the All Up and All Down security function check to see if it's just the FOB or a possible other issue?
Here's the initial function,
...if all the doors are locked turn to the key to the right momentarily and all the doors should unlock and you get a double flash from your exterior turn signal indicator lights indicating the security is disengaged.
...if the doors are unlocked turn the key to the left momentarily and all the doors lock and you get a single flash from your indicator lights indicating the security is engaged.
Now the advanced function,
...if all the windows are up, doesn't matter if the locks are or are not engaged, turn the key to the right and hold it. All the doors will unlock (if engaged) and all the windows will go down, then you release the key.
...vise versa after that, turn the key to the left and hold it, all the doors lock and the windows will go up.
Last edited by Highhorse; Nov 5, 2025 at 11:43 AM.
Considering you're saying the driver's door doesn't always unlock, I'd suggest starting there. They do need lubing up at times to work smoothly. But agreed on the other poster about it being worth cleaning the contacts in the fob, I have to do mine every couple of months.
Have you used the hard key and done the All Up and All Down security function ?
I have a second FOB but even after cleaning and fresh batteries, it’s not responsive at all.
I have used the hard key to do the up-and-down window function.
That only works intermittently and there’s no consistency as to when it will work or not work.
Currently, it won’t work.
If I use the FOB to lock all doors all, but the driver door will lock and I will get the rear lights flashing. I have to lock the driver door manually by turning the key to the left.
SOMETIMES if I manually turn the key to the right all doors, including the driver door will unlock !
Try a hard reset of the battery. This often fixes gremlins from stray voltage in capacitors. Also take a look under the fuse box in the trunk to assure there is no water entering the SLCM module (under the fuse box).
Maybe your lock switch gives intermittent signal due to failing switch or bad connection, so your fob sends open signal while switch sends close and things get chaotic
actually, the battery trick was the first thing I tried! I was able to get the alarm to not go off every time I use the key to open the door, but I’m still having that driver door issue.
actually, the battery trick was the first thing I tried! I was able to get the alarm to not go off every time I use the key to open the door, but I’m still having that driver door issue.
The only other thing before pulling the door card would be to use some dry silicone spray (small can, gotten at any hardware) and with the straw inserted in the keyhole, do a light spray shot and then insert and function the key...repeat, insert key again, repeat until it is functioning cleanly, then test with FOB. I say light shot because if you put too much in, it will wick out and run along the side of your car as you drive again and again. .....btw, this should be a standard maintenance procedure every couple of years....and do the trunk one as well. That key cylinder is well known to freeze up just when you need to use it.
I feel Hooli's suggestion deserves attention...yes it sucks taking off the door card, but it's the only way to service the assembly if the cylinder service doesn't work. I'd do the reset as Jim suggests no matter what, to do as he states, ..."clear the gremlins".
Here's what your driver side assembly looks like....and midway forward in the door is the control module for your security, doors and windows. It has a press in sync latch with a release arm to disconnect/reconnect the assembly. If you do this, give it a couple minutes to bleed off and reattach but the battery disconnect does the same, is easier and clears the whole system.
The only other thing before pulling the door card would be to use some dry silicone spray (small can, gotten at any hardware) and with the straw inserted in the keyhole, do a light spray shot and then insert and function the key...repeat, insert key again, repeat until it is functioning cleanly, then test with FOB. I say light shot because if you put too much in, it will wick out and run along the side of your car as you drive again and again. .....btw, this should be a standard maintenance procedure every couple of years....and do the trunk one as well. That key cylinder is well known to freeze up just when you need to use it.
I feel Hooli's suggestion deserves attention...yes it sucks taking off the door card, but it's the only way to service the assembly if the cylinder service doesn't work. I'd do the reset as Jim suggests no matter what, to do as he states, ..."clear the gremlins".
Here's what your driver side assembly looks like....and midway forward in the door is the control module for your security, doors and windows. It has a press in sync latch with a release arm to disconnect/reconnect the assembly. If you do this, give it a couple minutes to bleed off and reattach but the battery disconnect does the same, is easier and clears the whole system.
Annual pre-winter task - along with changing tires over - for those of us that actually have winter.