XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Now to fill the trans(help)

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Old 04-26-2010, 01:07 PM
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Default Now to fill the trans(help)

I read all the posts and am still not clear as to were the fill plug is and the over fill plug location. Found one plug at the rear passenger side just above the pan it has a allen head.I had thought it might be the over flow. As to the fill I am still not sure. Please a little help here. (ZF24 5HP)98/VDP
Thanks
Bill
 
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:30 PM
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Default Tranny Fill Plug

Bill, yes the allen (hex) head plug just above the pan on passenger's (right) side near the rear is the fill plug. I believe it is metric, not sure, but I had a heck of a time getting mine out. You have to fill the tranny through this plug, after cycling through the gears and having the tranny up to temp. You fill it until fluid runs out of this plug. Easiest way is to run a tube down from the top and secure it in the fill plug and fill until it overflows (while the car is running). Be careful the tube doesn't melt as it's close to the exhaust, and it's also easy to burn your hands.
 
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Old 04-26-2010, 03:05 PM
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BOY!! Jim
I really needed that info, I have a pump and it should not be that bad.
Thanks again.
Bill
98/ XJ8VDP
 
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Old 04-26-2010, 03:35 PM
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Bill,

If you haven't done the job already, a couple of things to know about the dynamics of this operation:

The trans fluid will over fill the check plug if the engine isn't running, so you're going to fill as much as you can with the engine off, cap it, then start the engine.

With the engine running now, remove the cap and fill until it overflows, cap, shift through all the gears, etc.

Hydraulic fluid (trans fluid) expands when hot. So, with a cold transmission, you will have too much fluid in the trans, but as it warms up to the check temp (40c) the fluid will expand and begin dripping out. With a probe in the fluid, once 40c is reached, remove the probe and cap. That is the right level. If you reach 50c with the cap off, then too much fluid has expanded and spilled out. You'll then be low and you have to cap, cool down and start all over again.

This is easier than it sounds, or at least after you've done a few. It takes a while to reach the check temp, so it's not going to come up suddenly and catch you off guard.
 
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:25 PM
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All great info! not just for me but others that are doing the job. As I said I read all posts and some times things that are typed are hard to understand unless the wording is just right.Another trans question if you have the time,it seams that when I am stopped at a light and ease forward a little the trans acts like it will shift in and out of gear with a little jerk now and then. Other then that it shifts strong and sounds like it should,just thought some one had the same problem.
Thanks
Bill
98/XJ8 VDP
 
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:15 PM
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At 54k miles I have 6qt of Valoline Import ATF and a filter in stock.

The procedure that I have noodled out would certainly not work for a professional technician but . . . .

Seems that another quart/liter will drain out of the transmission after sitting for a day. Since my car is a toy car I would leave it idle for a day then jack the rear up to allow draining the ATF into a shallow, clean, $3/12qt/6" high plastic pan through the pan drain plug. Remove the pan transferring the ATF that didn't drain through the plug into the shallow pan, change the filter, replace the pan.

Measure the volume of ATF drained by a calibrated milk jug measuring tool prepared before hand. Expect about 6 quarts. Add an additional 1/2 qt of fluid for the filter.

Replace the same volume of ATF via the transmission fill plug by whatever pump, tube or other means available with the right rear of the car elevated to reduce spills.

Replace the fill plug, start the car and see what happens.

If you need to get into transmission temp, 40 degrees C. is about 105 degrees, hold your hand on the bottom of the pan. As long as you can hold it there the temp is ok for filling. Too hot, too hot for filling.

Comments appreciated.
 
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:10 PM
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Thanks for the info, really helps.
Bill
98/XJ8 VDP
 
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Old 04-27-2010, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by deerebill
All great info! not just for me but others that are doing the job. As I said I read all posts and some times things that are typed are hard to understand unless the wording is just right.Another trans question if you have the time,it seams that when I am stopped at a light and ease forward a little the trans acts like it will shift in and out of gear with a little jerk now and then. Other then that it shifts strong and sounds like it should,just thought some one had the same problem.
Thanks
Bill
98/XJ8 VDP
Bill,

The jerking shift sounds like the "lurch". This is not going to be corrected by a fluid change. It requires a computer reflash using a WDS (or SDD now). The ECM/TCM waits too long for the last downshift and the reflash corrects this. The Lurch was more common in S-Types.
 

Last edited by steve11; 04-27-2010 at 05:30 AM.
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:54 AM
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WOW!! Steve sounds like some thing that needs to be done at a Jag dealer.What does that operation usually cost.
Thanks
Bill
98/XJ8 VDP
 
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Old 04-27-2010, 01:14 PM
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Bill,

I cannot tell you. Every dealer charges what they feel the traffic will bear, especially on diagnostics stuff. They know you have very little choice with WDS/SDD diagnostics. Of course, to defend them, they've paid a lot for the exclusive capability.

I'd start by calling the dealer, describing the problem, tell them that you understand there is a TSB on it. Ask them for an estimate. If they say they need to see the car, ask them if they discover the TCM or ECM needs a reflash, how much do they charge for it. That will save you the trip there if the price is ridiculous, and it just might be.
 
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Old 04-28-2010, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by test point
At 54k miles I have 6qt of Valoline Import ATF and a filter in stock.

The procedure that I have noodled out would certainly not work for a professional technician but . . . .

Seems that another quart/liter will drain out of the transmission after sitting for a day. Since my car is a toy car I would leave it idle for a day then jack the rear up to allow draining the ATF into a shallow, clean, $3/12qt/6" high plastic pan through the pan drain plug. Remove the pan transferring the ATF that didn't drain through the plug into the shallow pan, change the filter, replace the pan.

Measure the volume of ATF drained by a calibrated milk jug measuring tool prepared before hand. Expect about 6 quarts. Add an additional 1/2 qt of fluid for the filter.

Replace the same volume of ATF via the transmission fill plug by whatever pump, tube or other means available with the right rear of the car elevated to reduce spills.

Replace the fill plug, start the car and see what happens.

If you need to get into transmission temp, 40 degrees C. is about 105 degrees, hold your hand on the bottom of the pan. As long as you can hold it there the temp is ok for filling. Too hot, too hot for filling.

Comments appreciated.
YIKES!

A few things Testpoint -

why go all around the standard procedure? It's actually not that bad. I've seen DIYers do this job and the 6 speed first time, out of the box without failure....even if they spill a little fluid they got it right in the end.

The 5HP24 yields about 4.5/5 qts on the discharge. The 6 speed is an 8 qt refill with about 7.5 qts discharged. The correct oil change process is counter intuitive, but you're going to over fill the trans, then spill out the correct amount at the specified temp.

I've seen your process described before. Drain out what is in the pan, measure it, refill the same amount that you took out - Question is, how do you know the amount you took out is the correct amount the trans should have? What if it was low, which is more likely if the fluid is 50K/60K/70K old? Then you'll refill it low.

On the fluid level plug - with the engine off, all the trans fluid that would be circulating through the trans (except the torque conv.) ends up in the pan, so pulling the fill plug with the engine off is going to yield a lot of fluid and I don't think you can get one corner of the car high enough to get all 4.5/5 qts in w/o losing some fluid. The 6 speed is far worse because about 70% of the entire fill ends up in the pan when the engine is not running.

Using your hand on the pan is not likely to yield the correct fluid temp. The difference between 40c and 50c (105F to 122F) is close enough to the touch to be inaccurate. If the temp of the fluid exceeds 122F, but the pan still feels cooler to the touch, the trans will be underfilled. I know some techs use an infrared reader on the pan, but I believe (hope) they're taking into account the fluid is going to reach temp much faster than that temp is transferred to the pan. A direct probe in the fluid is the only accurate way IMO.

One last thing - Strongly recommend not lifting one corner of an XJ8 with lots of aluminum components/crossmembers on it, or especially an XK8 roadster. Regardless of what work I'm doing on an XJ8/XK8, I either use a car lift, or lift the entire front or rear of the car evenly using two floor jacks. On the X350 (all aluminum) this is detrimental and the JTIS warns against lifting any one corner as permanent chassis twisting can occur.

I apologize if this comes across as argumentative, but some things rub me wrongly about this process. Hope you don't mind the opinion.
 

Last edited by steve11; 04-28-2010 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 04-28-2010, 07:33 AM
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Not at all, appreciate the input. I do have an IR thermometer so at least I have that covered. And a friend with a full lift so I guess I can just do it the 'right' way.

Now, would you have any comments on how to remove the steering wheel column upper bolts to get to the reach motor?
 
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:49 PM
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Hi guys, I am really glad that I'm a member here.
Does anyone know what size the overfill plug is for an XJ8 98?
the closest one I find is T50, but it seems a bit loose and the plug is really tight. I
am affraid to strip the plug
 
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:50 PM
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the overfill plug for the transmission on an XJ8 98
 
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:29 AM
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The fill plug for the 5HP24 is a 8mm hex, and it it very tight . If you loosen it with the trans. up to operating temp it helps. I have to use a piece of pipe as an extension if it has never been removed before.
RJ_____________
97 XK8 86K mi
 
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:32 AM
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Before you remove the drain bolt, make sure the filler bolt is able to come off. Heard many horror storys of this, drain the tranny and stripped the filler bolt.

SGB
 
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:23 PM
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Definitely get the filler plug out first ! Don't use a torx it requires a hex bit.
 
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:43 AM
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Default ZF5HP24 Transmision Technical Guide PDF file

Hi
Here is a PDF file that gives a short Technical information on the ZF5HP24 Transmission (7 pages) extracted from the AJV8/ZF5HP24 Technical Guide PDF file (page 1 shows the location of the level/filler plug):

Jaguar XJ8 (X308) 5HP24 transmission Tech info.pdf


The rest of the complete guide (the other 70 pages) describes the engine with short paragraphs & illustrations about all of the engine operating systems from cooling, Lubrication, Timing, Air Intake, Fuel, etc.

I will post the engine info in another new thread.

Jim Lombardi
 

Last edited by jimlombardi; 09-21-2012 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:26 PM
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Gentlemen,
Great thread. Planning on tackling this week. Would the senior members please make a top three recommendation on the ATFfluid for my 01 VDP w/92K. I see different recommendations everywhere I look. TIA.
 
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:28 AM
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I ended up having to remove the steering column to get to the heater core. Removal of skirt near feet and steering cowls on the column is needed as well....just a few philips screws.
 
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