Hi All,

I just pulled my son's transmission out of his XJ8, expecting to replace the A-drum. Imagine my surprise to find the A-drum perfectly intact. I began to tear things down a little bit and finally found what I believe to be the reasons I had long, weak shifts and why it finally started to flare and bounce around during 2-3 shifts-

1. There is an o-ring missing from the A-drum shaft- probably from the last person who was inside the box (don't see how it could have come off any other way)
2. There is a fairly significant crack in the piston that sits at the base of the A-drum.

Does anyone know who carries A-drum clutch pistons? Even used would be ok- I just want this thing back on the road. I found F- clutches, but not A-drum clutches.





OUCH!

 

UPDATE: Found a bad 5hp24 BMW transmission sitting in some guys yard for $20 on Craigslist and saved some bucks.

The innards appear to be the same and fit as such. Also found that I was missing a spring under the clutch piston (there was one and should have been two- so that proabably also explains my slow shifts before I began having problems. Transmission is in now, and shifts great.

After R&Ring 4 times between swapping out mine and his we have it wired.

ON A SIDE NOTE: I now have two perfectly good (original) A-drums (one from the beemer and one from the transmission- I used the A-drum I bought new) if anyone is interested PM me. I may keep one for my next project, but I certainly do not need 2. I also have the innards of a BMW 5hp24 (minus the A-drum clutch piston) in case anyone needs random other parts.

 

At the risk of talking to myself through the entire thread, is anybody interested in a how-to for ONLY repairing the A-drum, and not a complete rebuild? There are a couple things not mentioned that I would have liekd to have when I did it (torque specs, how to remove, check the slultch piston for damage) Let me know

 

If you have the time, you should document it. As these cars age, many of us will be faced with the same problem.

 

+1 I think it should be in the sitcky's.

 

+2 looking forward to it.

 

Ok, will do- I'll try and add pictures as well.

 

I've been lazily repairing my transmission for about six months... crazy you did it in what sounds like an afternoon! but I've got a simple couple of questions.
first, why in all the instructions I've seen on here, does it not say anything about having to remove a line to what I believe is the power steering/ rack and pinion, to access the port to remove and install the torque converter? I was hesitant to mess with it for some time... I'm a rookie on auto mechanics, and without someone with me that's done it before, I get timid. anyway, I finally removed it.
second, what size is the socket to go on the harmonic balancer to rotate the fly wheel? I think I saw mentioned, only turn block clockwise while viewing from standing in front of car. anyone with additional pointers, please all advice welcome!!

thanks,

Jon

 

Yes, an afternoon...It helps to have a son working alongisde me.

The socket for the crankshaft bolt is 24mm I believe, only trun clockwise. I created a how to- check it out.

As for the power steering line, it should not be in the way.. you should have *just* enough room to fit a 3/8 14mm socket and a 3/8 ratchet into the hole to remove the TC bolts. It's a bit fiddly to work with, but I do not like having to deal with steering lines etc.