Seems my XJR is telling my my pass door is open and the ceiling light won't go out even when driving. Problem is I need the car for the next couple of days as the X type goes in for service Monday. How can I solve the problem temporarily. I'm guessing I need a new microswitch again which means a trip to the junk yard that just got snow yesterday. I pulled the doorcard off and sprayed it good with electric cleaner but nothing. I'm quite certain that it the offending door as when you shut it the window goes down currently. How can I keep from the battery dying without disconnecting it?

Thanks

 

Try removing the switch and connecting the two wires together. Temporary fix.

 

Well I tried that and it still has the same issue. I find it odd that this window was going down today when you shut it but that issue seems independent of the door open so I guess I will have to check all of them right as of course it will be the last one I check. There isn't any other causes right? I even tried a hard reset to make sure the computer wasn't just messed up. I had a rear door that the light didn't come on when I got the car and spliced in a junkyard switch but never an issue like this or since. Any other thoughts before I cancel my trip on monday to rip the doors aparts. Also, any luck in the past 5 years of a $.50 microswitch becoming available?

 

Well the plot thickens. Took the microswitch out of the d side rear door and cleaned it tested it etc and it was working fine so moved to the next door the following day. Pull it out and same thing. Put them both back in and everything worked just as it should. Assumed it was fixed with the electrical cleaner. Today I got home from some appt. and my daughter who had been home sick said the alarm was going off randomly. Well we are back to square one as the doors now won't "arm" and I just get the chirp back. WTF was wrong with those tried and trued external door open switches that the holes are still cut for on the bottom of the door? Again anybody have a source fore these microswitches. Hate the thought of spending time at a yard pulling just as old switches from junkyard cars. Any other thoughts?

 

So all 3 pass side door microswitches have been tested and are working or testing fine. Still you will lock the car and then the alarm goes off in 10 minutes, 2 hours or sometime. You go out and it is saying that a pass door is open. Even have disconnected. The only code I'm getting is the wonderfully useless U1135. I'm nearing my physical end for dealing with this and have no faith in a dealer within a reasonable distance to take it to. My indie Jag guy has said how much he hates electrics so that is not an option. Battery is good. 12.75 volts or higher after resting for some time (is maybe 2 years old but I do tend to keep it on a tender quite a bit when getting limited use, no other real issues that have changed. The one actuator has always been "stupid" if you befuddle it but that has been there for 5 years on ownership. Car is not ussable. Can I simply remove the rear security module and run it without that to see if that solves the problem?

 

Well my last attempt was to switch the rear door modules and the one from the other side had the same result- random alarms followed by telling me the door is ajar (when nothing is even attached to the module at the moment. Only time it hasn't gone off was when no module was attached at all in that door. Any thoughts out there or am I simply wasting my time writing?

How about a replacement car? Can't be a Jaguar since they don't make vehicles capable of towing anymore (must use aluminum to stay around 2 tons). Without any solid leads or a direction to go I will be spending my weekend looking to lessen the kitten population as I don't have much choice at this point.

 

Another place to look, where problems arise is where the wiring harness goes from the door to the "A" pillar. Have to cut or remove the protective rubber that surrounds the wiring. Flexing and pulling from opening and closing the door can cause wiring to rub through their insulation and short out or break. Have saw that happen on many cars. Give each wire a good look.

 

I actually ordered a new harness to try
9it was 10 shipped.

 

Hate to just throw parts at a problem, but sometimes no choice. Hope it works for you.

 

Considering the old on needs t come out to look,made sense for the price. I really don't think it is wiring deteriorating. Car has been well cared for, this door might have been opened 1000 times. Had it been the drivers door, maybe.

 

Yep, but you never know till you look. Better than spending the weekend lessening the kitten population.

 

Well 2 days into a used door harnesss the door/alarm issue hasn't happened again. Too bad I did rip the stinking rubber "hose" section that is visible in front of the door in a spot I can't even put on some tape. No idea what was wrong with the original. No issues visable. Now if I could figure out why the trunk seems overly filled with condensation.