Jack, I am a new user here and am awaiting "permissions" from our administrator. I can be reached by email at mikeupnh@gmail.com.

 

Hi

I have the following message front light indicator failed, yes the front light is working? this message is ramdom and sometimes does not appear. What can that be
thanks

Marc

 

I have this problem of intermittent right hand side brake light failure on my UK 2005 XKR convertible.

I have located the SLCM and it's part number is LJA1970AC/ XXXX as reported in post number 58.

I've removed the bulb holder & cleaned all the contacts but the warning "check rear lights" is still occuring.

I have removed the spare wheel and had a good look around, under carpet etc, but cannot find the VCATS sticker, anyone and idea why, maybe it was relocated in later cars??

Is there another solution to replacing the SLCM, does anyone repair them?

Thanks for your assistance

 

It started with the intermittent failure warning and then it stayed on and so did my rear lights.

I unhooked the battery and went to my mechanic (I live in Thailand so the rest of the story is true). Jimmy is really a very creative guy when it comes to "exotic" electronics and has great patience. I was traveling so over the course of 3 mnoths he wnet through all the wires that COULD effect this warning light and the bigger issue of a short causing them to go out. He rewired the lights AROUND the issue without reading the material from this site that said do not switch wires around. The SCML fried! and does that plastic smell. The manufacturer no longer exists and even if you find a used board it has to have exactly the same number as your car's (mine was 002) or end in 00 since you cannot reprogram them. All bad news, right. Well the good news was the only tings NOT working were the rear sensors and the remote opener. I hate alarm systmes and anyway no one ever is stupid enough to steal a Jag. I had a local car radio/ac/electronics shop replace the remote with a new system (just a small control box where the SCML was) and the same with the remote. Took half a day and cost was acceptable in the circumstances. Everything works like always except the remote fob is more compact. Don't wish it on anybody but it is the FINAL solution. We did it in August and no issues since. Good Luck

 

Update
Steps
I remove the fusebox from the mounting frame enclosure by pulling up the side securing latch with a special tool (usually used to remove the door card panel) and at same time pushing the fusebox toward its left and it popped free of the frame enclosure.

I had remove the entire fusebox mounting frame enclosure (was bolted down with 2 screw on one side and 1 screw on other side) to gain access to the rear coaxial connector and the 2 front harness connectors of the SLCM module.
Then I removed the connectors and the coxial cable, then used a screw driver to pry open release side tab of the enclosure and then slightly pryed the module up and out the enclosure.
Then I used screw driver to pry open the module and pull out the circuit board.

Click on the following photos to show larger view of them.

Ebay Photo of the Trunk fusebox and its frame enclosure after the frame enclosure was removed from the trunk (selling the fusebox with the enclosure):



Photo of the bottom of the Trunk fusebox after I removed it from the enclosure showing the 4 harness connectors still attached to the module:



Photo of the SLCM in place in the enclosure after I removed the fusebox



Photo of the SLCM board after I removed it from its plastic housing:



Here is a photo of the circuit board showing the 3 chips and other components on the board:



Another photo of the 3 chips closeup showing the information on the chips:



2 more photos - 1st one is outside of the SLCM top and bottom cover, 2nd one is the inside top and bottom cover:





Photo of invoice for chips ordered and received to fix the SLCM rear rh (passenger ) stop light problem. Note that the part# (BTS409L1E3062AINCT-ND) on the photo of invoice is different from the part# (71042SE) on the photo of the onboard chips in the photo of the circuit board. Forum member JackShaheen advised the purchase of digikey part (he has used it on several of the XJ8 SLCM repairs).



Photo of the Digikey SLCM chip from their webpage:



End of Update


Original posting before update
Our 2001 Xj8 has developed the passenger tail stop light always on condition with the check rear lights warning, etc.

I removed the negative battery cable, removed the fusebox, unplugged the 4 harness connectors, and I can see the SLCM module.

Here a photo of the SLCM still in place:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wtut2sykcn...ce%20photo.JPG

I am not sure how to remove SLCM module, it has a coaxial cable attached to the back of module (how to remove that cable??), also looks like the module is being held in place by two pressure tabs on top of it (how to remove the module without breaking anything??).

Do I have to unscrew the coaxial cable before trying to remove the module? Do I have to remove the 2 harnesses on the module before trying to remove it??

I am taking photos for a future DIY thread on repairing the SCLM.

Any help is appreciated.

Jim Lombardi

 

Would it make sense that my SLCM is bad if the right rear brake 5 watt running light portion comes on when turning on the headlights but the 21 watt brake light never works on the right side? Left side is always fine along with everything else on the right. I am going to order the chip and pretty handy with soldering iron. Just to don't want to go through the hassle if you guys think there may be a separate issue. I swapped the bulb mounting plates from right to left and the bulb worked on the other side. I am getting the 12v with no bulb in place and down to 0 when bulb is installed and brake pressed. 2002 xj8 vdp

 

I would love to pay to have you fix my slm. I've got so many problems with taillights and not being able to program my remote. If you're still willing just let me know where and how much it'll cost. Afterwards i'll keep working my way around until all is working. Oh yeah the backup sensors don't work either.

 

[QUOTE=FirstJag7979;930976]I would love to pay to have you fix my slm. I've got so many problems with taillights and not being able to program my remote. If you're still willing just let me know where and how much it'll cost. Afterwards i'll keep working my way around until all is working. Oh yeah the backup sensors don't work either. I also would be ever greatful

 

I had the same issue which turned out (after a lot of troubleshooting and research) to be the driver chip for brake light (passenger side). I ordered the Siemans chip from DigiKey and replaced suspect driver - no problems since.



The module snaps into the housing, I used a small screwdriver to release each tab around the module to remove from housing.

I've marked the passenger side brake lamp driver with white dot in the corner - third from right edge. Click on pic to get better view



If you are not experienced in playing with electronics, I recommend getting someone experienced with soldering electronics to remove/replace the chip (surface mount). I had no problem de-soldering the old and soldering the new chip, but I bought two chips just in case.

The circuit and wiring are well marked and color coded in the JTIS. My highlighting and marking were the result of eliminating bulbs, wiring, etc.



Alternatively, I noticed in my research that there are folks that will repair the failed module. That should eliminate the need to reprogram.

Good luck,
Dave

 

Everyone on this forum is so great. I learn more every time i have a chance to log on.Anyway, after reading all the posts about repairing your own SLM and the weather getting above freezing i decided to take mine out and have a look. What a bummer. It was pretty obvious that water had gotten in because the solder joints and every thing else looked corroded. I thought about doing a thorough clean up and touching up some solder joints but i believe that it probably is fried from corrosion jumpering all the components together. Everyone and their brother are looking for this part LNG2600HB/008. Just have to keep searching. I was hoping there was a Ford counterpart to this module but haven't had any luck. Thanks to everyone for all the advice.

 

try fleabay!
And I do not believe you will find ANY Ford module to be interchangable onan X-308.

 

Since i've got nothing to lose i may try ultrasonic cleaning. I can't believe all the different ways i've read about how people clean their boards. This was specific to cleaning just PCB's in general. I would have never tried any of them unless i had nothing to lose. If a miracle happens and i get it cleaned i'll touch up the solder joints. If it actually works i'll post the details. If it doesn't i'll post that i failed and everyone can have a good laugh. Have a good weekend everyone.

 

I'm digging up this old thread to ask if anyone has info on where to get the semiconductors for the brake light output.

I have called DIGI-KEY and the part is NLA (obsolete). Mouser is local to me but they show 0 available.

Any help is appreciated.

bob gauff

 

bob:
The part is a "high side solid state switch" and any number of replacement part numbers will work, as long as the IC package is right. There are two different size ICs that were used- my MY 99 was different from my MY 02, but I do not know when the change happened.

** Do you have the original part number? ** I realized it was in this thread! I am looking up the replacement!


DigiKey has part number BTS442E2, which should be a suitable replacement for the older, larger IC package, although it looks like you might have to bend the leads differently with some needle nose pliers to get them to lay on the board right and you might hve to cut the heat sink tab off.

Part number AUIR3315-ND is cheaper and will probably work. It is different in that it has a programmable internal circuit test (blown bulb detect), but as I recall, the Jag circuit did not use the internal test anyway, and did blown bulb with an external detection.

In either case, or for the other two available HSSSS's that Digi Key stocks, check the package dimensions vs the one you have to make sure you can solder it in. I actually used the smaller package on my older module (the one with the larger original package), but I had to rig the leads a little more than I would have preferred. It worked OK but was not pretty!

 

There are a few Ebayer selling part# BTS409L1 SMD from Germany, UK, and Portugal.

Looks like the best delivered price is this one from Germany ($4.75 each) and has 34 pieces available - shipping to U.S. seems to be fixed amount of $4.52 (total shipping for 1 piece or all 34 pieces).
If you order today then it says delivery between - Feb 19th and Feb 26th.

recap of costs - 10 pieces would be $47.50 plus $4.52 shipping - total $52.02
20 pieces $95.00 plus $4.52 shipping - total $99.52

Here is the Ebay weblink:

1x BTS409L1 E3062A Power Switch Hi Side 1 8A 18W SMD TO200AB 5 | eBay

I paid a total of $19.02 (Feb 2014) for 5 pieces from Digi-Key ($15.30 plus sales tax and shipping).

Update 2/13/15 2:58 PM -- replacement part number was a different package type (surface mount) old obsolete part is thru the board type.

Jim Lombardi

 

Try googling for it in the UK. I got one a couple of years ago but can't remember the company.
Also I had hard wired the rear brake light from the rear window brake light till I got it sorted but it was about six months later that I got around to doing the work but when I disconnected the temporary wiring I thought I would check the rear brake lights again and everything worked as normal so I didn't need to do anything.
No idea why this happened but it's still working now. I've looked for the part I had but sods law I can't find where I put it. If I find it I'll give you a shout

Dave

 

Again:
There are two different packages for the IC- early and late!

 

I talked to a Digi-Key sales lady and she talked to someone in engineering about a compatible part.
She told me that it is OBSOLETE and no replacement available.

I saw the Portugal eBay listing but thought I could get a few closer to home.

I saw VYRIAN in Houston listed a few thousand in stock so I might call them.

I'll keep looking on the internet and try some of the other numbers y'all posted.

Thanks. I'll let you know what I find.

bob gauff

 

Hello all. I have a 99xk8 with the rear bulb warning stuck on but all bulbs woking. I have tried all the fixes I could find in the forum except changing out the ICs. Does anyone know how to get ahold of Q16 and Q17. (probably only need q17 since there are 4 of them I would guess one of those is the culprit)

I am working with the folks an digi-key but I don't think they will find a replacement.

 

Scott:
The ICs you refer to are one and the same as discussed in the post above. What you need is a high side solid state switch, with a voltage rating above 20 volts and a current rating above 5 amps or so. That covers a lot of range. Most importantly, you need one in the IC package to match the ones installed on the board.

As to which one is the bad one, you need to trace from the pin in the main socket along the foil, back to the particular IC driving that pin.

Maybe bob found a good source and will comment.