Would this work as a replacement for for the factory rear shelf sub speaker found in the premium sound system? I have done much searching on the forums and can't find any advice other then there is a repair kit available for the OEM sub. This is the right size and shallow enough but don't know if it will put out much bass. I don't need car shaking bass which is why I am not interested in a traditional trunk mounted sub with amp.

Retrosound R 69N DVC Dual Voice Coil 6x9" 200 Watts Upgrade Replacement Speaker | eBay

 

I wouldn't put a GM audio anything in any car, they are flat out garbage...especially those Bose Tagged 80's stereo's.
Here's an old thread...https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ine-car-55096/ ...its a little painful at first, because one guy is absolutely paranoid to touch the car, but it has a happy ending and info I think you are looking for.

 

Highhorse, I went to that posting and read it. It doesn't help as that is the sub speaker setup for the x350 not the x308. They have 2 6.5 round subs while the x308 has one dual voice coil 6x9 sub speaker that fits in a shallow space over the gas tank on the rear shelf.

 

Yes, but you can use a single of those in place of it because they have better performance. The Jag sub (a loose term by Jag) isn't a true sub and with today's tech, you can easily upgrade it with a shallow enough unit.
Here's the one I am going to put in soon....Rockford P3SD48 P3 Punch Shallow mount 8-Inch DVC 4-Ohm Subwoofer. It is 2 11/16" depth top mount.
If you want to search to see what others have, just do a search for '6" shallow sub woofer'. Though you'll get more results for an 8". For example...http://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-subwo...subwoofer.html

 

Get a true sub-woofer, there should be a shallow unit to fit the bill.

 

There was just a recent thread I was reading, with I think the exact speaker asked about, Jennifer. I believe at the end, the person who had asked realized that it would be less than ideal on the basis that it's a full range speaker versus a "woofer" speaker. And with the repair kits available for the factory foam surround, that'd probably an easier way to go, really. You still have to take the shelf out anyway, and people have been impressed enough with the factory one after it's repaired. And would likely be sounding a lot better than the one linked. It's very, very hard to find a 6x9, dvc "woofer". Most of them are exactly as you see in the one you showed - older style full range speakers that were usually designed to be a single speaker in a dash or rear shelf of an older car, before stereo imaging mattered to anyone.

All that aside, I haven't taken mine out yet (will be after my upcoming road trip), but I'm thinking to see what regular sub I can fit in there, a shallow mount 6/8" or something, even if I have to trim the shelf out to fit it. I can only imagine it will sound better than the factory one, but there's also the chance I might just build a custom corner sub box for the trunk and leave the factory one out altogether. Might be an option for you also, if you aren't looking to leave every inch of trunk room.

(EDIT: Yeah, what they all said above me lol)

 

Ok, the plan is to power the sub with its own amp loaded in the trunk. Would this one work in the OEM speaker space? I don't know how single vs dual coil works but am hoping since it will be powered by its own amp it won't matter?

CDT Audio CL-69SUBCF 6x9" Carbon Fiber Subwoofer

 

If you're going to use the same mounting spot as the original, you'll likely need a shallow/slim model.

 

Unless you are disappointed with the sound I would just have the existing speaker rebuilt. Then everything remains the same. I had the rears in my XK8 rebuilt by Orange County Speaker in Orange California because you can't get a replacement with the same ohm value.
They were quick, reasonable and do good work. I am sure if you web search you can find many companies that rebuild speakers.

 

Looks like a huge magnet on that one, and I haven't seen the comparison to the stock one so might be fitment problems, althought it does list a mounting depth of 3.5" - I just don't know how deep there is for space since I've never seen it yet. As long as you've got the appropriate signal into the dedicated amp, then you're correct in that it won't matter if it's not DVC. You just have to make sure the amp has both L and R sides going into it for input. But yeah, you might be able to go with a 6.5" or 8" shallow sub to fit, and be as far ahead or farther if you're going that route. Making me want to go rip my rear shelf apart to see it in person lol

 

A dual voice coil speaker allows the bass from the right and left channel to be produced by the speaker. If you use a single voice coil speaker you will lose 1 channel.

 

Here's an even shallower option. Mounting depth 2.87". So this would indeed work with a dedicated sub? I have a local shop who the guys were gracious enough to listen to my current set up which is a Sony MEX-XB100BT with OEM premium system Alpine speakers. The head unit has a built in 4 channel amp that is powering all the speakers but the blown rear shelf subwoofer. They were completely honest and didn't try to set me stuff I didn't need which I appreciate. They said my factory speakers with the head unit sound fantastic and they wouldn't suggest replacing them until they break. They said the only thing my system is missing is some bass. They quoted me a good price to install a subwoofer with dedicated amp if I could find something that fits the existing area.

http://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_componen...s/es690cfs.php

 

6" x 9" Angled Speaker Repair Kit For Replacing Foam Surrounds
If "your" happy with the sound other than the bad speaker, I'd just fix it.

 

I haven't heard it. The speaker has been broken since I got the car. I am looking for a replacement for 2 reasons. 1. Getting to the speaker is a PITA and I don't want to deal with it and my installers aren't interested in removing the old and then having to repair it. They would remove it and install a replacement that fits though. 2. From reading posts about the OEM speaker it wasn't that great to begin with so if I can replace it with something better I want to go that route. I am not interested in any trunk mounted subs so please don't recommend I go that route either. I want something that will replace and fit in the original space that gives good bass and will be run on its own amp.

 

I agree.

It depends on your goals though of course.

If you are looking for some serious low end, car shaking bass (which BTW probably doesn't really sound that natural) then the stock 6x9 "sub" may not meet your needs.

However I am highly impressed with the X300 stock Alpine/HK (premium) system. It sounds good at all volume levels and the bass is pretty darned good (and importantly natural/proportional sounding) when the stock 6x9 "sub" is working properly. I have maxed out the volume a few times where the 40Wpc just begged for a little more, but that was ear hurting volume even then. So even though I've day dreamed at times of upgrading the system, I've decided at this point to leave it stock.

But again, all depends on one's goals and tastes. If the stock system isn't delivering what you want, then you'll have to get creative.

As noted above, the trick is going to be placement. With the fuel tank mounting in the X300/X308, there isn't much depth between the rear deck and the top of the fuel tank. So any replacement "sub" mounted in the rear deck will have to accommodate, and you'll have to likely fit an auxiliary amplifier as most aftermarket high power sub-woofer will probably be much less efficient than the OEM unit designed for much lower amplification.

That all being said, it is always interesting to see what solutions folks come up with. So please post any complete descriptions and photos of how aftermarket sub-woofers have been fitted, and what models.

.

 

Ok, at the risk of sounding rude a little, it sounds like the installers want their money's worth. I'm not saying they're good people and all that, but for what little effort they'd actually have to put in, versus what they could charge for the labor, fixing the existing surround would be a cake walk for them. But, then they lose any profit on new equipment sold to you.

For example, to repair the factory sub:
- Remove seat and parcel shelf to get to the sub.
- Remove sub
- Repair surround on sub
- Reinstall sub and seat.

To go aftermarket: First, you have to find a shallow-mount sub that will fit the opening with no modification. A 6x9 replacement will be, as you've seen, near-impossible to find. Any 6x9 that will fit a shallow opening will likely not reproduce nearly as much as a dedicated sub. So let's say you find a 6.5" sub. Will it sound as good as a factory tuned sub that many people have found plenty? Actually, most of the posts I've read have said people have been perfectly content with the full sound provided with a working factory sub - it's only in posts where the sub has gone afoul that people have complained about wanting different options, at least what I've seen. Admittedly, I probably haven't searched as many posts. Anything above a 6.5" and they're probably going to have to modify the opening to make it fit. Assuming again, it's shallow enough to fit.

And that's just the speaker itself. Because then they have to wire in a completely different amp just to run it anyway. Not that it's difficult, but it does add time/money to it.

The factory sub, everything stays exactly the same, it's like twenty bucks worth of parts, and then some labor. No additional wiring, no cutting, no mess, and still decent sound that will last for years.

Unless you want far more than that will allow, in which case anything deck mounted to replace it, is probably not going to be some earth-shattering difference over a repaired stock one. Remember, you're working with the constraints of a shallow deck with limited modifying from what you've said. That narrows the field a lot, and you're still talking a free-air sub design. But obviously there are always going to be some options that we missed (though in all honesty, why haven't your installers given you options they think might work? I mean, why do you have to do all the research for them? If they have their catalogs, they'll be much better prepared with speaker dimensions and specs, or at least I would imagine?).

In the end, it's your choice and your preferences that matter, even if I sounded harsh (apologies for that. Just a been-there, done-that thing.). Don't let anyone talk you into, or out of, something that you feel is in line with the result that YOU are looking to end up with. Either way, if you do go one way or another, definitely let us know how it goes, and any options or obstacles along the way!

 

Rocklandjag, what does that mean in terms of what i hear? What are these "channels"?

Charlzo, the difference in cost of repairing vs new is only like $50. The OEM speaker was not a dedicated sub but a new one can be, see the links to the ones I posted above. I can get the last one I linked for $70. If I bought a 6.5 round sub it would still need its own amp as the in head unit 4 channel 100 amp is powering the rest of the factory speakers. So what would be the advantage of of a 6.5 round vs a 6x9 shallow mount subs? I don't mind paying the extra small change for a new dedicated sub vs repairing the old. The installers didn't have anything that would work in the shop and yes they could have done the research to find something that would fit but then I would have to pay the premium price for them to order it for me. I would rather find out what works and get to shop around for the best deal myself.

 

Channels are just left and right. The dual voice coils allow the factory speaker to give off sound from both the left and right side of the music, in case the L/R balance is changed, and things like that. But if you only have one of the two channels going in, then there's a chance you'll miss out on some of the sound that should be there.

Question, the head unit is powering the rest of the speakers, which is fine. Do you know if they bypassed the factory amp altogether? Or did they tap into that which means the factory output to the sub is still present? I would imagine they either skipped it all around or you'd hear the sub rattling, unless they just disconnected the wiring to it.

The reason I ask, is that could make a difference on how they go with a replacement. If they aren't using the factory amp at all, they'd certainly need another small sub amp to go with it. The biggest difference between a 6.5 and 6x9, is availability. You'll find worlds more 6.5"s than a 6x9 subwoofer. Sound-wise, probably not too much difference between them, aside from a 6.5 sub is going to be designed explicitly as such. Most of the 6x9s you're finding now, were designed as a full-range speaker so it's a little less frequency-range minded. Might not be a huge difference, but depends on your tastes.

Also, since the replacement DVCs probably are a different ohm rating per coil, it'd certainly be best to go dedicated amp, even if they were using the factory one. Depending on what you go with, if they ARE still using factory, it might work, but would be best to go with dedicated. Very easy to spend a a couple hundred between a good 6.5" sub and amp. The Kicker's noted have been highly rated, but depending on which model you find, can be 100 bucks for the speaker, then the amp & wiring.

Back up to the ES-690 you linked. That would physically work, should be shallow enough depth, and can easily handle a dedicated amp and be wired appropriately. I would love to know where you found one for $70, for sure! Cheapest I found was $175. And the limited reviews don't paint a very flattering picture, but I'm sure it would be at least comparable to the factory and beyond once driven with an amp.

I just ordered the repair kit myself, going to see how I make out, and at the least give myself an idea of what else I can make fit.

(Please don't think that I'm just trying to find any fault I can in your plan, btw! Just trying to keep objective about everything, while trying to think of cost/benefit/ease and things!)

 

Charlzo, factory amp has been bypassed altogether. I can hook you up on the speaker deal if you like as he quoted me $99.95 for one or $135 for a pair. Thats where I got my $70 for one from as I was gonna order the pair and sell the 2nd one to anyone on here who wanted it. We can be speaker buddies....lol. That speaker is a dedicated sub from what I read not a full range speaker no?

 

I might just take you up on that. I did notice that the retail pricing was actually for a pair, so that does put it in line. I also know the reviews are worth only as much as internet paper, and I can't put too much faith in ... 3 reviews lol. The rest of their lineup seems to have good marks anyway. I wouldn't mind taking you up on that offer for the 2nd one, actually.

So no factory amp, so they'll be adding a small one simply for that, which should work fine. Let us know what amp they end up going with, and more importantly, how it sounds too! Do you have a time frame yet? Anxious to see how it works out.