Mine (no CATS) runs 1cm higher on the driver side, thats about a finger as well.
Dont even bother to google it, because there are millions of threads of other brands, incl. Benz and BMW, on this matter.
I just think it compensates for my fat *** .

 

LOL! Best of luck to you

 

Let us know if you won King Charles....

I have a simple battery question. About once per week, after the car has been sitting 18 to 24 hours, the ASC / Traction control warning will appear at cold start-up. If I let it warm up and then restart the car it does not come back and doesn't re-appear again the rest of the day.

The battery is BRAND new, well about 7 weeks old now so pretty darn new. I suspected a parasitic drain as a possibility but was too lazy to pull out the multi-meter and start the process. I simply hooked up my battery tester and after about 16 hours of sitting since I got home from work the battery reads 12.4 volts and 85% charge. Does that sound healthy or should it be better than that after only 16 hours?

Thanks,

 

All new batteries are not always good.
Try this, hook up the meter and watch voltage as someone starts the car.
I guess you could hook it up under hood so you can see yourself.
See what the voltage drops to when its cranking.
Voltage Drop Testing

 

Didn't win as I got distracted with other things but it went for a price I would've gladly paid US $3,150.00.

I need to sell one of stable anyways lol.

 

Well KC, that's a shame. From what I could tell in the pictures it was a beautiful car for only $3,150. And, that would have left a healthy budget for upgrades and maintenance if you compare it to what most XJRs are selling for.

We took the kids to a hiking trail/natural caves place today so I didn't do any car repair. It was a beautiful day so we did take the E30 with the top down. I don't care for it as a daily driver, but sometimes that convertible can be really fun.

My XJR had not been started for almost two full days, so I tested the battery again. Still showing 12.4 volts but down to 80% charge. Maybe there is a parasitic drain somewhere? I will investigate it more next week. I started it up to see if the ASC and Traction Control error came up and they did not. I heard the 2nd fuel pump for a second and then it fired right up. I did wait a few seconds for the "system check" to complete before I started the car. Perhaps when the battery is somewhat low and the system check has not completed before I turn the key, that's what caused the error code. I took it for a little spin and after driving the BMW all day I was again amazed at how much MORE power the Jag has, haha.

 

What's the output in amps of the battery charger?

It's a big honkin' battery and a full bench charge before
installation took me 72 hours tapering from 12 amps
to standby.

Did you ever notice the XJR is lower than the BMW E46

 

I didn't turn the charger on, I just hooked it up to get volts and percentage readings. If I do use the charger, it has a 2 amp, 6 amp and 10 amp option. If I just power on the charger while it's connected it doesn't charge, it just reads the battery power. I have never charged this battery. I just bought it new about 7 weeks ago and put it in the car. I drive the car at least 300 miles a week so it should stay fairly charged, right?

Yes, the XJR has even less ground clearance than my E30, which is just a little 325i. But, that low profile and those wide tires make it a mean looking sedan, er...I mean Saloon.

 

An alternator is meant to replenish a fully charged battery after
starting, and to run the vehicle.

Charge the battery for 72 hours on auto mode starting with
the 10 amp setting. This presumes that your charger has
automatic charge management to avoid overcharge.
You'll be amazed.

The best thing to do with a freshly purchased battery is to
fully charge it on the bench before installation.

 

I never thought of that. I mean, I know the alternator is not designed to charge a dead battery, but if the battery is in the upper 25% (above 75% charged) I guess I figured the alternator would eventually top if off with regular driving.

When I get home from work tomorrow I'll remove the battery and give it a full charge.

Thanks Plums.

 

So I pulled the battery last night and put it on the charger. It was at 12.4 volts and 85% charge with no load on it. That's pretty weak considering I'd just driven the car 60 miles.

I set it on 6 amps and let it charge for about 3 1/2 hours. I then let it set for an hour and tested it again, before putting it back in the car. It was back and forth between 12.8 and 12.9 volts and showed 100% charge.

I put it back in the car and when I turned the ignition, I swear the dash lights looked brighter. Maybe it's my imagination, but the car sure fired up nice and certainly didn't show any codes or error messages.

We'll see what happens over time.

Thanks again Plums.

 

Well, 16 days later and the asc/traction control error codes have not returned. It seems the "new" battery was not charged up good when I bought it.

A few days ago, after the car sat overnight, I disconnected the battery and tested it to see if the higher charge is being maintained. It showed 12.6 volts and 95% charged. I "think" that means it's unlikely I have a parasitic drain.

 

A little update, just to be thorough. The ASC/Traction control error started showing up again about every 6th time I started the car. It would go away if I just re-started the car but I find it annoying. I checked the battery and the charge was good.

I had checked the grounds under the hood before but they looked shiny and good, so I never messed with them. I decided to disconnect all four of them for a thorough cleaning, just for the heck of it. Although they looked good, it turns out they had a bit if a slimy/oily residue all up in them. I rubbed them clean with a rag and electrical contact cleaner. I re-attached all four of the grounds and discovered it effectively did a hard reset on the car; interesting side note.

That was about 10 days ago and the error has stopped occurring again. Just thought I would share that...

 

Jeff,
I am having the same thing but it goes away after I park the car. But the worst was when the car went into a limp mode with the ASC and trac warning. I meant to open the abs module but can't find the time yet. Where are the 4 grounds located in this car? Hard to work on it when you don't have a manual. Thanks.

 

Maniqz,

Sorry, I was going to answer sooner but I decided to try to find some pictures first. Then, I got distracted and forgot all together. Forgive me.

In the engine bay, on the drivers side (LHS) towards the front there are two fuse/relay boxes just in front of the power steering reservoir. There are two places where ground wires are attached to the frame of the car near these boxes. They have a protective rubber cap on them.

There is another ground connection just behind the upper shock mount on the passenger side (RHS) that goes into the compartment with the little tool box door. If you remove the cover with the tool box door on it you can see where the ground connection goes through and has another wire attached. I removed both sides of that ground location and cleaned them up, then re-attached the two ground cables.

I probably didn't explain it well, sorry. I will look for some pictures but I wanted to at least offer an answer.

 

One picture shows ONE of the connections near the fuse boxes, the other one is very close to this one.

The other picture shoes where the wire goes through into the normally enclosed compartment.

I guess these are all ground connections. These are the connections I cleaned.

 

Jeff, I'm not sure about the first photo but the second photo is the falsebulkhead. It's the power cable that comes from the high power protection module in the trunk. It goes from there to the starter and then the alternator.

 

Thanks Jeff, any update on the abs warnings? I have holding off doing it because it's so hot in my garage lately, thank you sunny Los Angeles, it's still very much summer down here. Probably tackle it one Saturday morning.

 

Maniqz,

The problem had only been sporadic and had stopped for two weeks when I cleaned those connections under the hood. Sure enough, right after I posted that the problem appeared to be solved it came back. Tuesday morning I drove the car to my first day at my new job and the light came on when I first started it. I stopped a few miles from home, after the engine was up to temp, and restarted. No warning lights all fine again...

Then when I went to bring it home they came on again. I didn't care, I just drove it home. That same day I was issued a company car and I haven't driven the Jaguar since. I will look into it this weekend when I'm not working. It has suddenly stopped being my daily driver so there is less urgency to diagnose issues.

 

Both of those pictures are power leads.

One thing I've done to help eliminate the ABS light is to hook up a battery maintainer if I haven't started the car in several days.