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I have to replace the rear crank seal on my SC engine (Super V8, MB transmission). I am thinking of doing it with the car on the ground, raised just enough to have space to work underneath. I plan to (if necessary) completely remove the prop-shaft (and do everything else as required for transmission removal), lower the transmission (using two scissor jacks) sufficiently down and move it back (keeping it still under the car). Will I then be able to access and remove the flex plate and replace the rear crank seal? Has anybody done it in this way?
I have replaced many rear main seals on these engines, however I have never replaced them on the ground. I will say this, more often than not, the leak is more often from the 17mm Allen plug directly above the team main. It's the exact same seal as the one for the supercharger coolant cap seal. Make sure you replace that as well. I would also use some P'Blaster on the exhaust manifold nuts and letting them soak for awhile. You'll save yourself a lot of work later on.
...more often than not, the leak is more often from the 17mm Allen plug directly above the team main. It's the exact same seal as the one for the supercharger coolant cap seal.
Thank you very much for the pointer, I have those seals spare. I can imagine how pi..ed I would be to still have the leak after all the work on replacing the oil seal and I would probably think the new seal is bad or that I did not put it in properly (I have the tool). As for the exhaust manifold nuts and studs, I have recently replaced them all with new ones so this will not be a problem.
Before I start removing the transmission, I will jack-up the car and do some measurement / judgement of the space in the tunnel around and behind the transmission to assess how much it can be moved backwards (when lowered somewhat).
Hello colleagues,
unfortunately the rear crankshaft seal of my XJR from 2000 is leaking more and more. Could you explain, what is meant with your very useful info regarding the possible additional leak of the 17mm Allen plug directly above the team main? I do not understand the terminology "team main", sorry.
How long will it take to remove the transmission or is there a trick to not remove it completely?
Glad you pointed that out. What I meant to say back then was “rear main”.
This seal pictured below fits in 3 spots.
The first is on top of the supercharger lid that has a 19mm Allen bolt.
The second is on the left hand side lower section of the engine block that acts as the block coolant drain. I believe it’s a 17mm Allen bolt.
The third is above the rear main seal that has a 17mm Allen bolt and engine oil is behind that one. In my opinion, this non-moveable seal leaks more often than the rear main seal that has a moving part. Go figure that one out!
Take your time with that top banjo bolt on the transmission for the oil cooler. There’s 2 copper washers and that bolt is easy to cross thread in the transmission so be careful!
As stated early on in this thread, PBlaster the top nuts for the catalytic converters and let them get to ambient temperature before using a deep well 13mm wobble socket, long extension and a ratchet. No power tools on these unless you like to replace broken studs.
How long will it take to remove the transmission or is there a trick to not remove it completely?
You have to completely remove the transmission. I did it myself (Daimler Super V8) with the car on axle stands and using a transmission trolley jack. After removal, just wheeled it towards the back of the car to have good working space at the rear of the engine. I found the oil plug practically finger tight. I read that, for some reason, it gets loose over time; many have experienced the same issue. With a new washer, I also used threadlocker after thoroughly degreasing the threads.
Of course, I replaced the crank seal as well. There is no way of knowing whether the leak is from the plug or from both since the plug sits above the crank seal. And you don't want to have to go in there again.
While I had the leak, I could smell strong burning oil smell coming from the car every time I parked. The oil was dripping on the exhaust, on the flexible (mesh) portions of the pipes. After fixing the leak, the smell continued for the next couple of weeks - until all the oil that had soaked into the mesh burned out.
I don’t know if they deliver to Germany but this is where I’d get mine from. I’m not sure if they have this available aftermarket. If you are having a hard time getting this seal, I’d reuse it by putting thread sealer (Teflon tape) on the Allen bolt threads and a small bead of silicone on the contact surface where the seal meets the block. I highly recommend using Corteco rear main seal because it comes with an install tool (not pictured) already mounted inside the new seal. It makes the job a lot easier. The only thing is I use a lubricant on the install tool so the lip of the new seal doesn’t roll under itself while pushing the seal towards the engine.
You could also search for these parts on eBay Germany.
Last edited by Addicted2boost; 04-07-2021 at 06:01 AM.
Good morning, sorry to disturb again: both parts/seals from Jaguar are "out of stock" (AJ83744 and AJ 89646).
You can get the parts from SNG Barratt UK. Also, this company (in Estonia) has Corteco crank seal - Spareto. They don't have the composite washer but you should be able to get one from a local hardware (hydraulics or seals) shop.
08-30-2018, 12:05 AM
Rear Crank Seal Replacement
