Rear shocks
Ok it's time to replace the rear shocks. I go over bumps and I can hear a bang as the bushings are shot. Question Would the new ones come with the new
Mount bushings or would I buy them separately.
Mount bushings or would I buy them separately.
The ones I bought from AllShocks/Turner Motor Sports - Bilsteins - came with new bottoms installed and new tops. Still haven't found a reasonable price for installing them, tho . . .,
My experience was the same as Jims - the Bilsteins from Allshocks came with the bushings. I didn't have access to a lift, so I had my Jag indie do the job. He charged me $600 to install both the front and the rear. The new shocks are a HUGE improvement.
That's what my local guy wants for the rears: he says they have never changed rears in less than 3 hours per side (rate guide shows 3.5 total) at $95 per hr. I think a alignment shop up the street might be able to do it quicker. Dealer is out, way too expensive and can't guarantee the work since I am bringing the shocks (quoted $300 per shock).0
Did the fronts myself, pretty easy, much easier than JTIS suggested, but I had already repaired the upper bushings so I was familiar.
Did the fronts myself, pretty easy, much easier than JTIS suggested, but I had already repaired the upper bushings so I was familiar.
Rear Damper, vehicle set warranty time is about 2.5 hours.
A real world estimate would be around 4 hours total.
If I was greedy I guess I would need to move to these big cities and charge exorbitant prices, but I refuse to live in a city so I will just charge reasonable fees.
After replacing a few dozen rear dampers, they become fairly easy. They are not difficult and do NOT require a spring compressor if the lower plate is pried downward enough to drop the lower control arms.
People make this more difficult than it needs to be.
bob gauff
A real world estimate would be around 4 hours total.
If I was greedy I guess I would need to move to these big cities and charge exorbitant prices, but I refuse to live in a city so I will just charge reasonable fees.
After replacing a few dozen rear dampers, they become fairly easy. They are not difficult and do NOT require a spring compressor if the lower plate is pried downward enough to drop the lower control arms.
People make this more difficult than it needs to be.
bob gauff
When I was under my car after reading the rear shock replacement procedure in JTIS, I wondered if this was possible. Good to know I wasn't pipe dreaming!
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I have described the way to lower the control arms enough to let the springs fall out.
I am sure I have written the procedure several times in the past.
A mechanic in the Jag dealer I worked at used to find shortcuts to everything.
We all used the JTIS method but he thought it was a waste of time so he removed the 4 bolts from the diff and rear subframe bracket and used a 4 foot prybar and bent the rear of the plate down until he could jam a socket or piece of wood to hold it.
The arms will fall low enough to remove the springs and dampers.
Put a trans jack under the plate and lift it back in place to install the bolts.
You can use a floor jack if you are not using a lift and the car is low enough.
bob gauff
I am sure I have written the procedure several times in the past.
A mechanic in the Jag dealer I worked at used to find shortcuts to everything.
We all used the JTIS method but he thought it was a waste of time so he removed the 4 bolts from the diff and rear subframe bracket and used a 4 foot prybar and bent the rear of the plate down until he could jam a socket or piece of wood to hold it.
The arms will fall low enough to remove the springs and dampers.
Put a trans jack under the plate and lift it back in place to install the bolts.
You can use a floor jack if you are not using a lift and the car is low enough.
bob gauff
Search for a pdf file provided on this forum, it has 30 pages, including color photos and describes the alternate method motorcarman describes.
x300 - rear shocks
For whatever reason, likely Windows 8 issue, I can't seem to attach it.
x300 - rear shocks
For whatever reason, likely Windows 8 issue, I can't seem to attach it.
As SethB pointed out, the OEM shocks are pretty good; it is the lower bushings that dry out and cause clunking -- fixing that entails removing the shocks, so for $200 in parts, might as well change them out and get new lower and upper bushings for the same huge labor bill.
who makes the shocks for jaguar. Bilstine ? also , I wonder if there is a way to help preserve the bushings that are still look good and doing a good job ? Satterfield ( old sailor )
Last edited by Satterfield; Jul 14, 2013 at 09:57 AM.
Thanks Motorcarman, your solution worked perfectly, As a suspension mechanic I have never had to deal with rear shocks on an XJ8. I am glad I ran across your post. Took me only about 2 hours for both sides thanks to you.
Looking to replace my rear shocks - 2000 XJ8 - Rock Auto seems to have good prices on the KYB shocks. They also list spring seats and spring isolators - does anyone have an exploded view of the shock assembly? I know the isolator / bushing at the top of the spring mount, where it joins the body, is toast - not sure what the listing means by spring seat - I do not see anything between the spring and top plate. Thanks
Looking to replace my rear shocks - 2000 XJ8 - Rock Auto seems to have good prices on the KYB shocks. They also list spring seats and spring isolators - does anyone have an exploded view of the shock assembly? I know the isolator / bushing at the top of the spring mount, where it joins the body, is toast - not sure what the listing means by spring seat - I do not see anything between the spring and top plate. Thanks
This will help :
Damper and Spring Fittings-Rear - Parts For XJ Series from (V)812317 to (V)F59525 (X308) | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
The spring seat you mention is probably the rubber "pigtail" seat that sits under the bottom end of the spring (item #4 in diagram). It will in all probability be on its last legs as well ....
AndyP
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