I'm pulling the heads on my 2000 XJR. Anyone tried or had luck getting them off with the manifolds attached, just disconnecting the converters? It looks like there's enough clearance ... ?

 

Yes-they come off together. Inf act, I had trouble getting the manifold off the head the first time.

 

Thanks again, Ross. You made my day. After struggling to get the crankshaft locking tool in place without an assistant I was pondering those manifold bolts with a unique sense of dread.

 

Another question: is it safer to have two camshaft locking tools? I'll be removing both heads tomorrow morning and I have only rented one locking tool. I've seen pics on the forums where people zip-tie the sprockets, and I have the flywheel/crankshaft locking tool installed. I can't see how the "un-locked" side would be able to spin, but should I consider getting an extra locking tool to be certain?

 

You only need to use the cam lock tool to set timing after you install the head. I only have one and I set one head at a time. Two is nice to have but NOT necessary.

You can even loosen the cam caps to keep the valves closed to prevent BENDING them before, during and after cylinder head work.

bob gauff

 

It is easier with two camshaft lock-down bars, but you can do it with one. There is a great step by step for changing chains and tensioners. I tried to attach the pdf to this reply, but could not get it to work. If you PM me with your e-mail address, I will send it to you. It might be posted as a Sticky as well.

I am pretty sure the gentleman who compiled this only had one lock down bar. It will probably help you with the valve timing procedure on re-assembly.

 

Thanks, JWT. Both heads are now off the car and at the shop!

I've attached a picture of a sight I hope none of you ever has to see ...

 

SO you had to drill through the head?

 

Same thing happened to me. just the head broke off the bolt, so it was just pulling the head off and vise grips to remove the bolt (lots of stud left for a good grip)

 

Not so bad as all that. I had to drill the head off of one head bolt then cut the stud with a hacksaw while propping up the cylinder head. I couldn't get clearance to pull the head off the catalytic converter without cutting the stud. Good news is that after all that fuss the remaining stud came off by hand.

 

Dont you love working on OHC engines My thunderbird head bolts are so long that they have to be held up by rubber bands to keep them away from the deck surface during installation while the engine is in the car. Either way, it sounds like you had a blast Keep us posted.

 

If you ever find yourself in the position of having to drill off another head bolt you might try going to your locale harbor freight store and picking up a set of spline- sockets. These have multiple uses, one being useful at removing bolts with rounded-off heads. They work great on bad nuts too!! john

 

I'm afraid I have seen that myself!

 

Thanks, Johnny. I have a nice set of those I bought a while back doing a similar job on my XJS, but I didn't have any luck with them this go around. I also have a great tool I got from Sears for removing a stud once the head is cut off, but I fortunately didn't need it this time. It's like a metal donut with a toothed inner donut that you can set a wrench to, and the inner piece will clamp down like a champ on the offending stud or shaft.

Related, I once broke a head bolt on my '85 VDP clear down at the threads. As in way at the bottom of the block. Talk about a nightmare repair ...