I'm going to replace a front ABS link harness due to ABS warning light on and strongly suspect it's this. I've bought a second hand one, tested it and ready to fit.
Easy enough to disconnect sensor plug, and cut the zip ties holding the wire onto the suspension.
I've attached a picture I found on the internet (not my car) to show what I'm talking about.
Questions are:
1. There's a strange clip attaching the wire to the body, where the blue thing is on the pic. How do I detach the wire from it? Do I have to break/cut it to remove the wire, and if so how do I re-attach the wire? Is it a special clip or something?
2. I can see the other end of the wire going behind the wheel arch liner. Is access to this connector easy, or do I have to remove the wheel arch liner? I can't really see from the picture.
Just want to know before I go to the trouble of jacking it up removing wheel etc. and then find I can't do it and having to take it to a garage.
Many thanks,
Simon

 

It's a simple job from jacking up, placing a stand under it and removing the wheel.

The link lead connects to the harness behind the arch liner - which you can drop the front down to access, a trim tool to remove the reusable push rivets, or long nose pliers & flat screwdriver in a pinch.
I think it's a cable tie to a screw on holder, just replace the cable tie and leave the holder on the chassis.

If you've a C1095 then it's the pump itself that has a simple issue you can fix. x300/x308/x100 all have the same issue.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5-code-206274/

 

Ahh excellent thread, I think that harness is faulty on mine too - I had a few ABS lights when I got the car, found that was misrouted so it was bent too tight. That fixed it for a few years & now it's back so I assume it's broken internally.

I couldn't see how the cable unclipped behind the arch liner to get it off to test it either. It's been to cold & wet here to take the arc liner out & look properly so I've been ignoring it till it's warmer.

 

Difficult to tell from that pic whether you actually need to remove the liner, or even bend it out of the way by removing the top plastic rivet. You can see the 2 wires at the back of the liner, so the connector is just out of sight. You may be able to do it just by feeling it. It's too wet here too but I'm going out shortly to turn the wheels and have a look and feel.

 

I've just checked. Slightly tricky with wheel on but I've got a better idea: the connector doesn't go underneath the wheel arch, it goes behind it up into the frame, not far, but far enough not to be able to see it, so could only feel. On my new one there's a hole on one edge where plastic from the other side of the connector must come through, so I guess you just need to press on that and pull the connector off.

 

This is my error code, so it does look like it's the cable not the ABS module, thank God!

 

module’s bad don’t even waste your time remaking the harness. just put a scope on the pins at the module watch the vrs signal go up and down on top of the bias voltage.

just did one the other day they lose the LF circuit internally. had a db7/crown vic mk20 module lose the rear right circuit. good rebuilders will fix them up no problem.

 

I do have 2 JLM21323 ABS modules with a PERMANENT C1155 DTC so I scrapped them in the junk pile.

The modules were swapped to another car and the DTC followed the module so I know they are defective.

Most of the time the link harness is the fault.

 

I'm confused why Xalty says it's the ABS and don't understand what he means.
You said in the other forum "The two very common problems I fix all the time are the C1095 (pump motor fault) that the module circuit board soldering will fix and the short link harnesses (C1145/C1155) to the front speed sensors fail from constant up/down and side-to-side movement." which makes sense.
Now I'm getting worried it is the ABS module.

 

abs module sends a 2.5v dc bias across a known 1100-1800 ohm resistor (sensor) and the ac signal rides on top of it. when these modules fail you get bogus circuit monitoring codes and sometimes the bias disappears

i butchered a good harness for no good reason even when i knew the signal was getting to the module

 

Sorry, still don't understand you! It makes sense what Motorcarman says, that the harness has been moving thousands of cycles with the suspension over 25 years, so likely the wires have broken inside. He's never seen a faulty sensor. Seems logical to me to start with the cheapest option initially (harness cost me £7). Also the light doesn't come on straight away. First came on last June, then again a few months ago, then after I've driven a few mles, but does seem to be getting slowly worse.

 

i’m saying if you have the tools check the signal going to the module, my experience is biased towards module failure but you’re right that these harnesses do have problems. i could’ve saved an hour of my life if i did my due diligence instead of replacing the harness. either failure results in intermittent abs codes

 

I didn't realise they are that cheap, I'll order both & try them on mine. Seems logical to me that it's the wires snapping from all the movement too.

 

It was second hand though, off ebay, but I've tested it and it works.

 

I was going to take mine off & test first, but at that sort of price I'll test new* ones & just fit them to save crawling around on the floor twice.

 

To test them properly you need to have the multi-meter on the ends while wiggling the wire, but I only have two hands and was finding it difficult enough getting the probes on the ends.

 

Have you been able to work out how to disconnect the connector behind the wheel arch?

 

It's been nearly ten years, but I seem to remember you depress the inner male fitting and pull it apart.

 

It's rained too much for me to look, but I see we've been answered on the other thread.