Well, I learned something useful today that may benefit others...my ABS light's been on but the car showed no OBD codes at all!!! However it only occured to me today that it's a Ford era car and thus....aye....it logs Ford codes ...I did not know that!

So, reading it as a Ford brought up 1095 pump motor circuit failure. Weird thing is ...the dash light is intermittent , I'd have expected it to be permanent if the pins /pcb had failed as suggested on an old thread , but maybe not ....could be what we call in Scotland a shoogly pin. So before proceeding, just want to check, the suspect module is the one under the ABS pump? ...I just cut it open and look for dry joints?

...Which brings me to...

...the pump itself....the same old thread says the ABS pump is a Teves MKIV .... GOD HELP US!!!! I've had trouble with these bloody things before..they are a poor design. To spread the news, the problem I believe comes about because the brake fluid is trapped in the pump...no amount of bleeding flushes it out ...the only way to flush it through the pump is to force the pump to operate. Thus, If you have a car with a Teves MKIV... once a month, deliberately stand on the brakes on a gravel surface or similar to force the pump to ..well...pump. Promotes long term health of the unit so I've been told by a bloke who rebuilds them!

 

I have NEVER replaced a pump. I have resoldered DOZENS of ABS module circuit board pins on both the X300 and the X308/X100.

bob

 

I think you may have been lucky... My sisters Ford had one, failed and ended up in tweek long queue with a reconditioner who was just snowed under rebuilding the things!

BUT ..in this instance, the code does suggest an electrical communication error yes? ... and it seems to be a common fault that the module fails at the input pins...am I getting this right? ... And the unit is directly under the pump? ... thanks for the input ...glad to know it's not likely to be a big expensive headache.

 

Search "C1095" and you'll find the how-to with pics and everything.

You may want to better define "intermittent." The ABS light will extinguish with key off and will not return until you exceed the parameters required to drive from my shop, down the drive, and beyond the front of my neighbor's house. Now, I don't know if the trigger is distance, or speed, or exactly what, but whatever, that is enough to do it. Not really sure, but distance-wise, I think it is some 500 steps on the Fitbit. I would call this "regular" rather than intermittent. The system assumes the best of the ABS module until it has finished its BIT (built-in test) and confirmed otherwise.

On the other hand, I've resoldered mine 4 or 5 times - not really a core-competency of mine, this soldering.....seems to pop a C1095 once/year or so, and have recently repaired another one on my hangar-queen project car. Not really sure which one I fit to the daily driver, but all was good, code cleared and gone for good...until it wasn't...ABS popped back up cruising down the highway, well beyond the normal trigger conditions. Light remains on until Key-off. Did not return on next run, or the run after that, or the next, or so-on, until it did. Then was on until key off and back off again. I have not read codes on it, yet, to see what is what....I readily admit it may have nothing to do with C1095....but this experience is one I'd call an "intermittent ABS caution." It has so rarely recurred, I haven't been bothered to hook up and read.

 

By intermittent...I mean occasionally it stays out all day! Then reappears the next day within a few hundred yards....BUT ...since it seems to be a 'popular' fault, and there's no obvious sign that the modules's been apart before I'd say it's probably due dry pin scenario... So, the only thing that baffles me is how to get the module out, with the three nuts removed that retain the pump, it doesn't feel like it wants to move far at all without straining the pipes. How is the module attached to the pump...if it's from underneath as it seems I'm not sure I see how to get to the fastners without undue stress on the brake lines?

EDIT ... just found another thread suggesting that the lines will take a good deal of abuse and it's just case of keeping wiggling to get to the two fastners holding the module on ..I'd not have believed it if I hadn't read it!

 

Gently lift the pump/module assembly upward, forward, and inboard, watching the brake lines to make sure you are not creating a kink. There are two small torx fasteners on the bottom of the module. By now you probably realize you needn't remove the three nuts, only loosen them and you can lift the assembly out.

Proceed carefully when cutting the module open, and realize you have to cut through 2 metal tubes at the mounting holes.

 

Finally got round to doing this job...got the module off. I understand it's the two 'power' pins that are generally suspect...but...what's the best method of removing the lacquer coat before resoldering?

 

Finally got round to doing this job...got the module off. I understand it's the two 'power' pins that are generally suspect...but...what's the best method of removing the lacquer coat before resoldering?

 

I prefer using a 7/8" hole saw without a pilot drill in the side opposite the plug. A drill press is handy here because you don't want the saw to wander or cut too deep. A small knife will scrape the coating off. I use epoxy to replace the plug from the saw.