Simple breather hose fix

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Mar 18, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #1  
I replaced my broken, taped, nasty breather hose with a nice rubber one that fits perfectly, gives an OE look and should give years of worry free maintenance.

I am sure I am not the first to do this but I figured since I was doing it I might as well take some pics for others.

Parts needed:
3/4" heater hose

Tools Needed:
Utility knife or razor
Pliers
Acetone / Brake cleaner (if desired)

Remove the old breather hose by pressing down on the clips and pulling upwards or outwards. Seen here all taped up by the previous owner



After removing the tape I was left with pieces. Slit the pieces that are on the barbed fittings on the ends and use a pliers to assist in removal.


Below is the hose I used


I used a bit of acetone to remove the lettering



Put on end on the hose and seat properly on intake tube, insert the valve cover fitting and mark for exact length. Leave a slight curve to allow for engine movement.


Press hose on remaining end. The barbed fittings and tight hose allow for a perfect seal, no need for clamps.


Stand back and admire your work.


Takes less than 10 mins and for me, I had the hose on hand so it was free too.

Simple breather hose fix-tube1.jpg   Simple breather hose fix-tube2.jpg   Simple breather hose fix-tube3.jpg   Simple breather hose fix-tube4.jpg   Simple breather hose fix-tube5.jpg  

Simple breather hose fix-tube6.jpg   Simple breather hose fix-tube7.jpg  

Reply 9
Mar 18, 2013 | 03:11 PM
  #2  
Just so you know, heater hose isn't oil and fuel vapor resistant, both present in that crankcase vent line. It'll work until the rubber turns to goo from the inside out and collapses.
Reply 1
Mar 18, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #3  
Quote: Just so you know, heater hose isn't oil and fuel vapor resistant, both present in that crankcase vent line. It'll work until the rubber turns to goo from the inside out and collapses.
Well aware and that takes a looonnnnnnnggggg time. I've done it on quite a few times. Fluorosilicone would be the best bet but I don;t have any in 3/4" and fuel line doesn't easily come in 3/4" either.

This will get through many years before it starts to degrade with the small amounts of oil it comes in contact with.
Reply 1
Mar 18, 2013 | 05:54 PM
  #4  
Quote: Just so you know, heater hose isn't oil and fuel vapor resistant, both present in that crankcase vent line. It'll work until the rubber turns to goo from the inside out and collapses.
At least the hose is very easy to access & replace with a new section if this ever did happen in the future...

I did a similar repair method when one of the brittle plastic coolant breather pipes fractured during an O2 sensor replacement operation which required removal of the coolant expansion tank.
Reply 0
Mar 18, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #5  
Nice fix. I had to do a similar one when I broke the bleed line from the radiator.
Ross has a point, but you can change it out easily for next to nothing. Or, go find a hose that fits the environment.
Reply 0
Mar 18, 2013 | 07:56 PM
  #6  
PVC dishwasher drain hose.
Reply 1
Mar 19, 2013 | 11:53 AM
  #7  
Hi Probesport, this is a great repair and one I will certainly do if the breather hose on my XJ8 has to be replaced. Thanks for posting.
Reply 0
Mar 19, 2013 | 01:22 PM
  #8  
Quote: Just so you know, heater hose isn't oil and fuel vapor resistant, both present in that crankcase vent line. It'll work until the rubber turns to goo from the inside out and collapses.
I just dug up some of the info on the new Goodyear hose (which I used) and they are worlds better than the dimestore junk from days past.

"Goodyear heater hoses are designed for vehicles that need custom-routed heater hoses. They meet or exceed SAE J20R3, D1 specifications, so they'll stand up to the heat. Goodyear heater hoses use rugged construction; they're manufactured from Versigard rubber, a compound highly resistant to heat, oil, and weather. Their patented knit reinforcement is made with Tylanar fabric, a material that also meets SAE J20R3, D1 requirements. So, when you want your hoses to outperform the competition, choose these Goodyear heater hoses to get the job done."
Reply 2
Jul 21, 2013 | 12:12 AM
  #9  
Quote: I just dug up some of the info on the new Goodyear hose (which I used) and they are worlds better than the dimestore junk from days past.

"Goodyear heater hoses are designed for vehicles that need custom-routed heater hoses. They meet or exceed SAE J20R3, D1 specifications, so they'll stand up to the heat. Goodyear heater hoses use rugged construction; they're manufactured from Versigard rubber, a compound highly resistant to heat, oil, and weather. Their patented knit reinforcement is made with Tylanar fabric, a material that also meets SAE J20R3, D1 requirements. So, when you want your hoses to outperform the competition, choose these Goodyear heater hoses to get the job done."
Good job mate...sounds like a commercial ;o)=)

Seriously, modern quality hose material will outlast the car.
For a really sexy looking hose, you could take the fittings along to your local hydraulic hose joint and have a hose made up with shiny stainless swaged fittings...that would look really classy ;o)
Reply 0
Jul 21, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #10  
I did the same thing over a year ago. Still didn't fall apart.
Reply 0
Nov 10, 2019 | 02:15 PM
  #11  
Broken right bank connection
Hello, I see you’ve all replaced the hose and whatnot, but I’ve got a different issue now. So the connection to the right bank of the engine, I’m not sure what the term to call it is, is broken. It cracked and the hose won’t stay in the engine anymore. Anyone have a solution to this? I’ve been using a c clamp and am failing to keep it in. I’m desperate enough to try using jb weld on it to keep it in while also using the c clamp. Any suggestions before I head down this route? Thanks in advance!
Reply 0
Aug 11, 2021 | 02:41 PM
  #12  
Quote: Hello, I see you’ve all replaced the hose and whatnot, but I’ve got a different issue now. So the connection to the right bank of the engine, I’m not sure what the term to call it is, is broken. It cracked and the hose won’t stay in the engine anymore. Anyone have a solution to this? I’ve been using a c clamp and am failing to keep it in. I’m desperate enough to try using jb weld on it to keep it in while also using the c clamp. Any suggestions before I head down this route? Thanks in advance!
I have same problem, need connectors to make up new breather.
Reply 0
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