OK I requested info for a starter install On my 99 VDP. I got some good feedback but all different and told it was a HUGE pain but thought while we were at it I would try different set ups prior to turning a bolt.

I plan to mill out a tool to do the whole procedure

I found that 2-3" extentions with a 13mm small socket on the top bolt going to a universal joint at the rear to 2-6" extentions connected to a wrachet was the speed solid way.Better than what was posted.

Great thing is you can feed the socket and two-3" extentions with the swivel from the top bolt side backwards laying on top the starter and connect it to the bolt and the just plug your two 6" extentions with the wrachet from below and just go.

I tried this several times with different tools and set ups even what Jag posted and it worked great and the best.NOW PRIOR to turning that bolt the Two 3" extentions and 13mm socket line up perfect for a top head 3/8th breaker bar in a straight line so no worry of gumming it up.

Then you have enough room to put a hand wratchet spinner right on those two-3" extentions and wratchet it right out without the full wratchet or the two 6" extentions.Now when installing the same top bolt CLEAN IT WELL and add green locktight just a tiny dab.Cleaning aluminum bolts is very important and the same bolt must return to the same hole.This also helps lubricate it so you can hand feed the bolt most the way back in.

Then you connect your two 3" extentions with the 13mm socket on one end and universal on the other end by feeding it backwards though the bolt side of the starter then moving it back forward on top the bolt.

That puts the universal right at the center hole at the other end and you can plug in your two 6" extentions and wratchet and go then finally when you feel pressure remove the 6" extentions and install your 3/8 " tork wrench as you have the room now that the bolt has moved the system forward and tork the bolt to spec.

It took me 20 mins to R+R the starter that is to include use of a commercial floor jack and 2 back up sands and Dialethic greese. I highly recomend the use of the two 3" ententions as you minus I think almost a half inch over the direct 6" standard bar and that gives your 3/8" u joint a clear area of movement back and forth in the center of nothing in the way.

I connected the 300mm unit in snap on and everything was rubbing and would have been a pain if I used it.

I used cheap Craftmans tools as I was going to weld them and stick the tool on the wall for my VDP but it went right in this way. I am sure this sounds to be a headache but it works very easy .The bottom is easy as you know.This system is never in a angled position it is solid straight to the bolt so you have tork in both directions.I would suggest if its a show car to convert to ARP bolts Grade 8 NFT

If you want to try it this way and it is fast and simple once you get the jist of it ,the tools for the top bolt (the hard one) and bottom are


Two 3" craftsman extentions 3/8 drive
Two 6" craftsman extentions 3/8 drive (only for reinstalling the top bolt unless no spinner)
One 3/8" craftsman universal
One 3/8" craftsman wratchet head hand spinner (optional but saves a lot of time)
One 3/8" craftsman wrachet
One 13mm short Craftsman socket
One 3/8" breaker bar top load
One 3/8" Tork wrench

Will post pictures of the starter tool I make on the mill and Lathe.I am going grade 12 with soft reciever (so no scratches) so it will be thinner and faster.Thanks again.

 

Any chance of getting a couple of pictures of this setup in action? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you did. Thx.

 

Hi
Were you able to remove/install the starter without dropping the steering rack?

If you can supply step by step instructions and some photos, it would make a great DIY.

Jim Lombardi

 

+1 on the above comments brightknight.

sounds like a really good job and a definite one foe the FAQ's but we would need pics of the procedure / toold to help visualise for all.

Can you share?

 

Yes I will be putting the car on the lift to confirm the tork settings on the bolt stayed in about a week and we are going to photo step by step instructions on how to do this this way.

It was simple and I already have another guy locally whom came over and I showed him and he swapped him out in 45 mins taking his time but he used a lift. I used a floor jack and rotator stands (large jack stands that you can adjust but just used them as regular jack stands).
I am going to have my brother whom is more PC literate and has better gramer type the instructions per photo and maybe a sticky can be applied as on other sites for another model car me and other pals have instructional stickys for the basic wrench turner.
But the racks fine no reason to move anything other than the 2 air plastic pieces at front of car so you can get your hand in that hole if you want to use the spinner wrench plus it gives you a area to confirm the sockets on solid.

I used that and a inspection mirror with a magnet on the back of it I should have also posted so I could keep regular eye on the bolt area itself. Just get a cheap $7 inspection mirror and take of the handle and glue a refrigerator magnet to the back and that is a great tool to have.

Just stick it up anywhere like you would a magnetic bolt tray etc. Yea I think after the responce I got a instructional Haynes type posting would be good.Thanks to the others for their Idears I just put the all together so actually you guys figured it out I just took parts from each of you and added 40 + years of turning wrenches.

Will post a thread in a week,Ill recheck the tork setting on the bolts then.I don't just crank them in so many of you will prob pass the tork wrench parts but I never yanked a motor I sheered the bolt head off also and would think the type of vehicle would prob mandate a upper level of intelectual mechanical ability from the basic crowd here otherwise so it all should be worth it.

Now understand I am still learning these cars myself and need a lot of help just if I find a trick I will post it.My next subject is what the pos crankcase flow pressure level should be at ? anyone know ? I can not find detailed manuals for these cars but I love them.

 

The factory electronic manual is known as JTIS. Have a look in the FAQ section at the top of this section of the site and you will find links for the download as well as installation instructions.