I had the supercharger rebuilt and now is making a blender noise constantly. Any ideas?

 

I’d return it to the rebuilder.

 

Unfortunately I have no way of doing so.

 

i wonder if they fitted the upgrade solid coupler , its not a bad upgrade but the side affects are as you describe .
it may pay to ask them if this is the cace .

see here

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ads-up-176686/

 

So I rebuilt my charger with the exception of the 2 main center bearings. I still have noise in that charger though. I replaced the spring loaded coupler with a solid type one and I feel that I made a mistake with that but by the time came around, I located and installed a low mileage charger and was done with it. Do you know which coupler yours has? I’d opt to install a factory Eaton spring loaded coupler and see how that goes. Also, if the person who rebuild yours didn’t replace the 2 center main bearings, that would be the next step as well. There’s a lot that goes into those 2 bearings getting replaced properly. I have access to another high mileage charger that I should attempt to replace those 2 center bearings on for S&G just to see how bad it is to replace. But I’m going to be busy for months before I even have time for that.

 

Same here, I had a complete S/C rebuild, new bearings, solid coupler, rotor recoating, etc. Sounds like a blender at idle even though the car idles smooth but pulls without hesitation and going strong for more than 10K miles. Take the belt off and turn it by hand to see if it is smooth but that is just how these things sound.

 

I refurbished my supercharger recently. I re-built the snout and replaced the needle bearings. I opted for the original spring loaded Eaton coupler though, even though it was over $60.

The supercharger is nearly silent now. The whirring of air is about all I can hear. Could the coupler be the difference?

 

That may be the issue. I opted for a solid coupler when I rebuilt mine. Could that make it make it do almost a vibration like sound at high speeds as well?

 

And old topic. But I quess that my fixed coupling is makin the sound on my SC ?
Or are the two main bearings bad?
I've replaced needle and both snout bearings. Sound is definetly coming from cogwheel area.


Is that he blender sound what is clearly heared?

 

From post #5 discussing a sc I rebuilt, I went back in it and changed out the solid coupler and installed a brand new Eaton spring loaded coupler without doing anything else to the charger and it’s very quiet now. I will never use a solid coupler again. Buy a spring loaded coupler first along with the oil and change it out. No regrets.

 

Yep. That's why I posted to this topic.

 

I have my SC out for a nose/snout rebuild, among a lot of other things, on my 18-year-old, 178k+ mile car. I put on a rebuilt SC at 100k miles and everything was good for a long time; however, I didn't note the mileage when I started getting the dreaded rattle. I'm guessing that I got about 70k miles out of that rebuilt SC. To me, that rattle sounds like the whole valve train is about to come apart, so I pulled the cam covers and checked that each valve was operating normally. They were, so I got a stethoscope and figured out it was the SC. When I pulled it and opened it up, it had a solid coupler. The rotors needed replacing, so I did that and put in a new solid coupler, but that didn't fix the rattle.

The parts kit that I ordered comes with the "Upgraded oil-filled solid coupler." This is the green one that many of you have probably seen in your searches, and is advertised as having the direct drive advantage of a solid coupler with some flex like the spring loaded coupler. Has anyone tried one of these? I have a new spring loaded coupler sitting on the shelf, and now I will have the oil filled coupler; decisions, decisions ...

 

Should be an easy decision after reading my post just a few up.

 

You would think so; however, I haven't had any trouble with the solid coupler until it and the snout bearings wore out. I have read in the past that the snout bearings need replacing more often than the rotor bearings, including the needle bearings, and that the rattle occurs due to either/or both the bearings and coupler needing replacement. I haven't been able to find the source recently, but if/when I do, I'll post it. I'm more into getting my current project done than searching the internet, which I've been doing a lot of recently gathering parts.

 

For me too. Only the original Eaton coupler, designed in the way it is for reason, I don't intend to experiment with any aftermarket "redesigns".