Greetings Fellow JAG Enthusiast!

I have been working on Resurrecting my 2001 Carnival Red VDP, IceBurg, for a year and a half through two repair shops new head gaskets, timing chains, expansion coolant tank, new spark plugs/coils and now it's replacement of the drivers side crankcase breather hose.

Firstly, I'm curious about not being able to start the car without the hose on. That is normal right? Also does anyone know if the engine's inability to go higher than 3000 rpm is a sign of engine damage/nikasil failure or is that do to the breather hose not being attached right now. LASTLY, any and ALL TIPS AND ADVICE on the process/procedure of reapplication of the breather hose, thermostat tower, water pump and common failing coolant hoses would be APPRECIATED. Thanks in ADVANCE and CHEERS

 

I have no useful advice on the breather hose question, but these engines have a 3000rpm limiter in park and neutral, so you should be ok there.

 

If the engine ECM is in limp mode for a fault it limits the RPMs from my understanding

On the starting you may have put the cylinders in a bore wash condition with your engine running patterns Vs. on the road as normal patterns

unburnt fuel will wash the cylinder walls of oil film to have compression for a successful start

2 ways to overcome it :

Hold the pedal to the floor and crank as the ECU knows to shut off the fuel , this relubricates the cylinder walls for a start with pedal relaxed

Keep a fully charged battery

Never put the battery in backwards , I just did it myself as a new battery was built backwards from the older one replaced

In tougher examples of bore wash condition you have to remove the plugs and pour a bit of oil and run the pistons through

Some have used gunsmith oil and what your looking for is something that will penetrate the rings and the ability of the rings to slide apart and expand

Let soak overnight

It will smoke , smoke a lot on startup as it burns off the oil , but it is the smoke of victory

 

If it doesn't go beyond 3 rpm that's knock sensor

 

Ok I'm ALL EARS and APPRECIATE the feedback,, anyone else out there feel free to ADD ON. The MORE knowledge the better. Owning this car has been like earning a history, engineering and mechanical Associate Degree in XJ 308 J-A-G. Been trying to soak up as much DIY project info for tasks I can complete and only go BACK to the shop out of necesito ir difficulty of a repair. Hoping can get her ROAD READY for the LONG HAUL. Bday coming up April 4th so would be DOPE to FINALLY have her RIGHT...

IceBurg the Carnival Cardinal

Executive Lounge: trying to get my Office-mobile mobile...

 

Hi Ice,
maybe you find something useful in my X308 DIY guide, it is for the 1998 X308:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-swap-266724/
It includes the water pump, plus at the bottom there are links to my other X308 DIY threads.

 

Side note: which models have the 3000 rpm limiter in neutral? Mine does not (03 xj8).

 

I have read somewhere (cannot remember where) that SC X308 (MB transmission) has a 3000 limiter in P or N to protect the transmission. When in P or N, some automatic transmissions are not totally in a "free gear" but may have some slight holding of one (or more?) of the cutches which may be damaged if the engine is revved high and for a longer period of time.

I do not know if the limit is also required in the case of ZF transmissions, and whether they are sensitive to revving, but, in any case, it is better not to rev the engine to much in P or N, just in case. The old ZF 4HP22 was notorious for its input clutch damage (burn-out) if revved in P or N. I believe there was a BMW bulletin advising not to rev in P or N at more that XXXX rpm and in excess of XX seconds.

 

Might just be the supercharged cars, mine is an XJR. Sorry if thiat was unhelpful, I didn't know the NA cars could rev freely.

 

Hey thanks for the extended help guide and DIY guide. My XJ 308 is of the 4.0 non supercharged naturally aspirated variety. I received my package today of the breather hose and was able to switch it out with minimal setbacks. The clips on the cam cover and T valve under the throttle body clip right in. For the hose part leading to evaporator I sliced the old one and attached the remaining hose from the 3 part breather. Once attached the engine did SEEM like it really wanted to crank, but I didn't want to overdo it before the bore wash.

Newly attached breather hose tucked under cam cover
I see someone say the ECU could limit revving if it senses something is off. Now I plan to give it a NICE bore wash and c of we can get some Good Friction in them valves and pistons to get her back purring.. also may have to try and drain old gas out, add fuel cleaner and or new premium fuel. So will keep y'all updated and thanks for the feedback too.

 

Milky oil
So in addition to the breather hose reapplication I check my oil and looked into the oil cap to find a creamy oily milky residue on the dipstick and inside the engine block. Is this normal from sitting up with no use and how can I resolve THIS ISSUE?

 

Foamed or milky oil is a sign of coolant getting into the oil

Need to change oil before running further , bearings

 

Ok thanks for the FEEDBACK 💯. Let me get my bearings right and oil changed..👍🏾

 

Change the oil yourself and do not drive it to a oil change

Others can comment and please do

I knew someone that was putting oil in the coolant fill cap of a different car

You may have crossed a line somehow

There is a chart showing the coolant line hookups and there is one many get wrong as it doesn't look obvious

 

9 LIVES / 99 problems
So there I was yesterday, a beautiful Carolina day and me with some time to get under the bonnet... My plan was to change the oil and then bore wash for a cold crank this morning. But in typical Jaguar "Murphy's law" TRADITION, some dumbass tightened my oil pan screw to SUPER DUPER tight. Not to mention the nut is stripped so now I will have to buy a new oil pan screw and find a way to get the old super tight stripped one off. That way I can 1 change the oil, then 2 bore wash, 3 drain some old bad fuel out/and or add some fuel cleaner FRESH 93 OCTANE fuel, 4 HOPEFULLY FINALLY GET HER CRANKED 5 and LASTLY replace the old worn brittle taped up leaky tubes and hoses that caused my initial problems... And in the process of this hope nothing else SUDDENLY "needs my attention".... 🙄🤔😅🐯 Jags, gotta love 'em?! Lol

 

You might be able to draw the oil out of the dip stick tube

Measure against the dipstick full mark and go 6 inches beyond that for the suction hose length

The oil will be cold so it won't flow easily so there might be a way to add heat to the oil pan less flames

An oil dipstick heater used in winter driving ?

Take a picture of the oil against a white paper backdrop

 

Remove the oil filter and set it aside and keep , use a new one

 

See page 22

X100 Eng T/G USA AQ (jagrepair.com)

 

OK OK,

SOOO, unforQtunately I wasn't able to get her ROAD READY for my birthday on Tuesday, but today I had some time to put some work in.
So I was able to remove the fuel pump and siphon the old no good fuel out of my tank. Then I put the tank comback together and was about to change the oil with the help of a stripped screw removal tool to help loosen my stripped oil pan screw. Unfortunately STILL wasn't able to get it off, so may need a shop to do that for me. But after that didn't work out I STILL tried to crank it and was unsuccessful. Then a PECUS code came over the information screen. At this point I'm starting to get frustrated and impatient as this car just seems to be doing the MOST...
I will recheck the wires leading to and from the fuel pump to verify nothing was left undone or disconnected. But, after hopefully getting an oil change and doing a bore wash I HOPE IT WILL FINALLY CRANK. Battery could have hindered the cranking today as well, but it's just ANOTHER PROBLEM. Any thoughts and ideas??
​​​

 

To directly power the fuel pump you can jumper socket 3 to 5 of the # 1 fuel pump relay

The # 2 fuel pump is only on supercharged model

In normal operation the relay will click closed for 3 seconds only and that can fool you