Hi guys,

I have a MY2000 3.2L V8 that has been laid up for about 7 years after developing an engine management fault (iirc - left bank lean) It was brought out and started a few years ago but that's it. I want to get it back on the road but it won't start.

It's been stored in a clean dry garage on a C-Tek battery charger the whole time. The battery is strong.

I've checked the injector and fuel pump fuses are ok.

I have added fresh fuel and it turns over very strongly but won't fire. I'm guessing bore wash is the issue. I will shortly go out, squirt a little light oil into the cylinders and crank it with the pedal to the floor. Hopefully that'll fix it.

If not, what to try next?

 

Should have said, it's post Nikasil and the tensioners etc were done by Bob Bate a few years ago. Battery was new before lay up.

 

Do you hear the fuel pump run?
From what I have read over the years, they size up over time.
You can check fuel pressure on the valve in the engine bay, but you should be able to hear the pump run as well.

 

It will be POSTnikasil... Early models had nikasil liners (like mine).

Just hold the key and turn it over. DON'T let off, until it is running at least half way. Play with the throttle too! DON'T just hold it wide open. Keep pressing it from shut to mid open.

Mine does this every so often and it takes about a good 50-60 seconds to start properly.

 

Iron liners started on 21/08/00 so it could be nikasil, but you can still have bore wash even if they aren't nikasil.

When it was started a few years ago it may not have been run long enough to get out of open loop.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I ran the VIN when I bought it so I'm certain it's post- nikasil.

I can't get the plugs undone at the moment, so I've plus-gassed them and left to soak. But I don't want to break them off.... I've cranked repeatedly for 10-15secs several times over without even a cough. Should I crank continuously for a full minute? Does that risk trashing the starter?

I'm not overly familiar with the engine compartment having not even lifted the bonnet in many years. Where's the fuel valve you mention in the engine bay?

As for fuel pump running, when I move the key in the ignition I can hear some energising noises can't say for sure if it's the pump.

Battery back on charge and plus-gas soaking. I'll try again later.

 

If it has been 7 years, I would change the engine oil and filter before trying to start it.

 

Just crank until it runs... Not kidding. Only for 15 seconds or so can make it even worse. It won't kill the starter. The starter can take this for a long time. The battery, if fully charged, can take it too.

The noise you hear when you turn the key at first is the fuel pump priming. That is normal and correct. So you have fuel to the rail. You can press the Schrader valve (right hand engine side, towards the rear of the engine on the intake manifold fuel rail should be a tire valve style valve with a black/blue cap (depending on year etc.). You can press that in carefully and see if anything comes out.

As said though, hold the key in the crank position and wait until the engine is running enough to let go and use the gas pedal. DON'T simply press it to the floor, or that WILL flood it even worse... Act as if you were pumping the pedal, but not FLOOR but like half way... When the engine is running properly (you'll notice that as it will slowly come back to life) simply then let the key go and hold it at a steady ~1500-2000 rpm for a couple of seconds (it will sound bad) and it'll then run smooth again - at least should.

 

Thanks guys, I'll try again tomorrow.

 

Try cranking it with the pedal all the way to the floor (just like you used to do with a flooded engine), this lets oil pump past the rings but cuts off the fuel. After a couple of tries, let up and crank it normally. Often works with bore wash.

Next, starter fluid, but only if you know you have fuel pressure see #3

 

I'll check the fuel pressure in the morning, then try cranking.

If that fails I'll try to get the spark plugs out again to drop a bit of oil in, but they were pretty tight and I didn't want to risk breaking them.

Wish me luck!

 

Fuel pumps HATE to sit unused for a few years!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm betting seized pump. Let the diagnosis begin.

bob

 

Not betting against you Bob, I don't like losing.

 

That doesn't sound good. Where is it located?

 

The pump is located inside the fuel tank, which is located in front of the trunk, between the trunk and the rear seats.

As I mentioned in post #3, you should be able to hear the pump running immediately after you turn the ignition on (have someone listening with the trunk lid open).
Looking if you have pressure at the valve is the 2nd check.

 

Thanks Eric. It's on today's list.

 

Check your earth straps, a friend's XJR wouldn't start the other day, but was cranking and it turns out it was a rusted washer between the earth strap and the body preventing the car from starting would you believe.

 

Thanks, I'll have a look. I've noticed the strap between the bonnet and the body has corroded through.

 

Soooo.....

I tried 60 secs of cranking with the pedal alternating through the mid positions. Nothing, not a cough.

I checked the fuel pressure nipple, just a dribble then nothing. I had a listen in the boot (trunk) when the ignition was switched on and whilst I could hear things energising around the battery and in the rear fuse panel, nothing could be heard forward towards the seats.

I'm guessing seized fuel pump based on Bob's comments.

Now then, how do I change this and is it a diy job using trolley jack (with stands) or is it a garage task?

If it's a garage task, it's in park. If I put it into neutral, can it be rolled and towed without the engine having run?

 

I've just read Gus' instructions and it doesn't sound like fun on the floor. Where can I get the fuel line removal tool from (uk)?