OK, you know its coming! Maybe the tensioners are not so OK, huh? There are flats on the cams located behind the sprockets that should align flat across the top with each other. Bothe side align at the same time. That is where you put the cam alignment tool when you do your alignment.

What makes you think the timing is jumped?
I suppose you COULD make a guess about how the chains had jumped teeth, and try to reset the chain, but I would sure suggest you go through the entire chain timing sequence when you replace the tensioners.

MAYBE you have not crashed the valves into the pistons, YET, but you need to be very careful turning the engine any at this point.

 

I bring it up as it was mentioned by someone earlier, when I first checked it that's how it ran, rough, low idle, sputtering, best guess either a vacuum leak or timing is out?

I spent some time this afternoon taking the cam covers off, being that I don't have a lot of time working 12 hrs a day, so it's going to be something that I do over a couple of days... anwho I took off the cam covers this evening (still in place, just gotta pull them off to do the tensioners, to help cut time down). The right had side looks better than the drivers side tensioner. My plan is to basically use wire ties to hold the chain to the exhaust cam sprocket, unbolt the cam caps a bit, prop the cam out of the saddle, take off the cam caps, have someone lift the exhaust cam up just enough to get the old tensioners out and plop in the new ones.. Hoping all goes well with that... At some point in the near future have the waterpump replaced, I am also going to be doing the thermostat housing, and having the A-drum & PCV on the transmission replaced in the next few weeks. After the mechanical work, I am going to be having all of my body work done, fixing rust on above the bumps, on the right hand side quarter panels, repaint rockers, etc.

So far, the vehicle has only been started to move it from the street into the driveway.


Do you happen to know what the sensors on either bank at the front of the engine are for? They protrude up from the cam covers... Is this for the VVT?

 

If they come up through the cam covers they are the VVT solenoids.

 

Remove the valve cover. Rotate the engine with 1/2" drive ratchet and 24mm socket ccw as seen from inside car, and the two flats on the camshafts just aft of the first bearing should line up perfectly.

If they don't it's possible to remove the exhaust cam and shift it one tooth, but that is not recommended as it's possible to break the cam when removing with load on the bearings.

The better choice is to loosen the nut on the cam at the sprocket and use a lockdown tool to line them up. The procedure is in the DIY sticky.

 

BCrary, there actually was a thread on such case (breaking the camshaft doing the tie-rap method, and he had his cams in sync) before you joined.
Be very careful doing it this way.

E.

 

I should probably have emphasized that when doing the zip tie method it is advised to rotate the engine to a position where the exhaust valves are not depressed.

 

Let's be very clear, here. You need to read every thread on this subject; memorize the process. It is really quite easy to do (and to screw it up, as well).

You check the alignment of the intake and exhaust cams to determine if you are still in time. THEN rotate the engine so the exhaust cams have the least tension on the valve springs. You want nearly zero tension under each cam when you start to unbolt the caps.

When you put it back together and have torqued everything while in the zero tension positions; rotate again to check alignment/timing. Then pull the fuel pump relay; crank it (this pressurizes the tensioner without starting); reset the relay and start it up.

Then do the other side.

 

So breaking it down into the required steps as follows (from what I am understanding:
1. Remove cam cover
2. Use 24mm to turn the cam so there is as little pressure on the exhaust valve springs as possible.
3. Use (2?) wire ties to hold the timing chain to the exhaust cam sprocket
4. Begin to unbolt the cam caps until about 50% then use a block to gently pop the cam out of the saddle.
5. Completely unbolt the exhaust cam, and unbolt the tensioner
6. Have a second set of hands very gently lift the exhaust cam just enough so the tensioner can clear the the chain.
7. Plop in new tensioners
8. Gently replace exhaust cam and bolt down
9. Using locktite rebolt the tensioner
10. Retorque everything
11. Pull the fuel pump relay (location?)
12. Crank the vehicle (6 times?) to build pressure in the tensioner
13. Install new cam cover gaskets, bolt cam cover down.
Wash, rise, and repeat?

Does anyone happen to know what the tensioner should be torqued down to? Cam caps are 11-18 Nm I believe?

Last few steps may be out of order probably.

 

Don't forget to make sure the cam flats line up before #1

 

What would be the best tool to ensure that they're lined up?

 

anything with a straight edge- ruler, etc. It is fairly obvious if they are even 1 tooth off.

 

Okay, so it is as simple as I thought! Haha

 

Not so fast, the new tensioner bolts are different, so you'll need those as well as the tensioners.
To be 100% sure you're in the service position, and referring to your #2 job it isn't the cam you rotate, its the crank, clockwise only, removal of the CPS and adding the dowel tool confirms the correct 45 degrees after TDC, then you should see cam flats aligned, or not...

 

Again I was misleading. I said ccw viewed from cockpit, whereas you refer to cw from front.

 

In a case like this, I cannot understand why someone would not follow the factory procedure and be sure they have it right!

 

Quite, but the OP seems in a rush. I've suggested the factory service setting, then it's only a matter of cam locking tool, and no possible errors - the tool set to carry this job out is what, $200+/-? Or is there a forum tool set for hire? That would be a good thing to have for members to use, you know post count/deposit/etc...

 

We are here to help and have helped a lot of owners in your position.

Slow down and take your time.

If you save an hour or so and screw this up you will have paid thousands for that hour saved.

And don't forget to remove the zip ties and the orange shipping pins on the the new tensioners!

(It is not on your list)
Vector

 

+1 Don't forget to use the NEW BOLTS, they are a different length; remove the zip tie; pull the packing pin; and, just to be safe put a cloth to keep anything from dropping into the engine on the left side (and remember to remove the cloth when all is torqued).

Once again, read every post in both the X308 and XK8 forums on this procedure. And, of course, if you have the time, garage, and tools, do it according to the JTIS manual and do the the primaries too. But, most important is immediately fix the secondaries.

 

Got the new tensioners in yesterday before it started raining! I noticed it was very difficult to get the new ones in without pulling the pin first.... All I have left is to torque everything down, prime the tensioners, and fire it up!