Hi, I just recently had my headgasket and camshaft replaced on both sides. Now my car is making a ticking noise when I accelerate but smooths out on the open highway. The mechanic says it is the VVT solenoid that is causing this. Could this be the issue?

Thanks,

 

Camshaft? Never heard of a camshaft failure without associated valve damage.

VVT issues can be easily diagnosed by adding a can of RESTORE, an oil thickener. If that quiets the ticking then change your oil thickness on the next oil change. Can't hurt, cost less than $10 and solves most VVT problems.

The other noise source is the serpentine belt tensioners. Remove the belt and see if the noise goes away. Only for a few minutes!

 

You are right. I did have to have a valve job done as well. Thanks for the information, it is helpful. I will try it today and let you know. One more question, this morning my check engine light came on and sure it enough the code it is giving is P1384. Does that change anything as far as adding the Restore?

Thanks again,

Sam

 

No to the RESTORE question. Worst case is that during the cam replacement the VVT was not fully in its 'no advance' position when the cam alignment was locked down.

 

Thanks for the information. I did try the restore, although the noise is not as loud and as long as it was previously it is still there for a brief two second only when accelerating. Your worst case scenario, how to I check to see if that is the issue.

Bank A is the passenger side?

Thanks,

 

Today I disconnected both VVT solenoids. There is no ticking noise upon pressing the gas pedal. Upon reconnecting them there is noise. So, I am ordering new VVT Solenoids. I am still getting P1384 code only so does this mean that it is the VVT Solenoid? In the mean time, if I drive the car without the VVT solenoids connected will that cause any damage?

 

With the electrical connection to the solenoids removed the VVT's should remain in their normal, not advanced, position. I would avoid seriously spirited acceleration but other wise that is how the 'R's run all the time.

 

If unplugging them alters the noise, then I would think that they are operating!!!!!!!

I have traded 'known-good-used' VVT actuators with another shop to see if the fault they had was due to a faulty unit. (NO CHANGE!!!!)

From their description I did not think that the replacement units would change anything (that is why I offered to TRADE!!! I still have their old good used VVT actuators)

I would NOT buy 2 expensive components to 'see if that is the problem'. I would 'borrow' or get some 'good-used' units for experimentation.

Why not SWAP the actuators and see if the fault follows the unit (eg P1384 to P1396)

If the fault follows THEN you should replace the damaged one!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If the fault remains, then you have a circuit or mechanical malfunction.

I'm betting on damaged wire/circuit OR incorrect cam alignment.
(could be oil flow prob if the fiber seals are missing or were damaged???)

could be could be could be................
We are not there so internet diagnostics is a gamble.

bob gauff

 

I would strongly suggest that you should listen carefully to Bob and take him up on his offer.

 

I just recently change the CYLINDER HEAD CAMSHAFT INTAKE with VVT actuator for both sides, left and right. It could be the cam alignment. Where can I find information on the proper cam alignment? Damaged wire? Damaged wire to the solenoid? Sorry for all the questions but I just recently paid a lot of money to have these issues addressed and was told it was the VVT solenoids.

 

I suggest you retime the cams to be sure if you have any doubt!
BTW, watching the cam signal relative to the crank with a scope will tell the tale. But, as bob says, we can all wager our guess with your money!

 

Today I changed the VVT Solenoids and had the camshaft re-aligned. I am still getting the same results to a degree. When I connect both solenoids I get the tapping sound when I accelerate. After disconnecting only the right side solenoid the tapping sound goes away. If I re-connect the the right side solenoid and disconnect the left side solenoid the tapping sound returns. When disconnecting them both the sound goes away also. The mechanic suggested I use a thicker oil such as 20w 50. He says that the 50w 30 is very thin and light weight. I am a little reluctant to do so but I am considering using 10w 40.