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Do you leave tender in trunk? I leave an old 1 foot by 1 foot orange microfiber cloth on the unused tender. When I plug it in I leave the orange cloth on top of my steering wheel. Even I can't overlook a large orange cloth on steering wheel! (Yet...)
With the coastal NC temps in the mid 90's FH w/ equal humidity I figure it's time to use it to my advantage. Cleaned all leather & now will lather said goods w/ the ever trusty Gliptone conditioner & let it permeate in the closed sauna like environment for hours.
Bought it some minor upgrades.
Mina intake tube. Will be doing something to keep the IAT's lower. Will be using stock air box with BMC filter.
Bought it HID fogs 35w with 5k temp. LED side markers, turn signals and trunk light bulbs.
Tomorrow, going to see if I can diagnose my rich banks codes.
Decided to refurb the vertical link and put in a new front wheel bearing. I like the underside to look as good as the top :-) Front wheel bearing replace and refurb
Decided to refurb the vertical link and put in a new front wheel bearing. I like the underside to look as good as the top :-) Front wheel bearing replace and refurb
Looks great!
I too like to clean , polish, and paint the hidden parts nobody else will ever see. I just can't bring myself to complete a service and then reassemble greasy , dirty, rusty or otherwise unsightly parts no matter how obscure.
. Of course this compulsion is also the reason my 98 xjr head,valve ,and chain service is taking forever .
As for what did I do to my x308 today?
. I took the 99 xjr out for the obligatory 4th of July celebration cruise. Burned half a tank of premium just hopping as many freeway on ramps as possible to exercise the supercharger. I had to remove the custom floor mat to make sure the accelerator pedal goes ALL the way to firewall.
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Developed a spongy brake pedal Friday, no visible leaks @ proper fluid level etc. Booked a mobile company to come flush it this morning. They did so & it's back perfect, tech said there was air in the rear left. Came to my house & $5 cheaper than Jiffy Lube, I deem this a win lol.
Developed a spongy brake pedal Friday, no visible leaks @ proper fluid level etc. Booked a mobile company to come flush it this morning. They did so & it's back perfect, tech said there was air in the rear left. Came to my house & $5 cheaper than Jiffy Lube, I deem this a win lol.
Charles I sincerely hope pedal stays good for you.
I cannot help but wonder. ..
If system was good and sealed then suddenly took air in somewhere? If air can get in fluid can get out. Wonder if you have a weepy caliper seal or other such issue where not a lot of fluid is lost but the small intake of air makes pedal feel spongy?
Hopefully just one of those oddnomilies that's passed. Good deal on the mobile service!
Charles I sincerely hope pedal stays good for you.
I cannot help but wonder. ..
If system was good and sealed then suddenly took air in somewhere? If air can get in fluid can get out. Wonder if you have a weepy caliper seal or other such issue where not a lot of fluid is lost but the small intake of air makes pedal feel spongy?
Hopefully just one of those oddnomilies that's passed. Good deal on the mobile service!
I think it's a combination of old fluid,never flushed in my 6 year tenure deteriorating & creating air pockets in this heat wave(possibly boiling out). Anyways I'll keep a close eye on it.
Last edited by King Charles; Jul 7, 2020 at 04:14 PM.
I think it's a combination of old fluid,never flushed in my 6 year tenure deteriorating & creating air pockets in this heat wave(possibly boiling out). Anyways I'll keep a close eye on it.
Well You can't go wrong with basic maintenance and fresh fluids. Always a good place to start.
Your a veteran owner ,I'm sure you know you're car better than anyone. .
I'm a long time tech and fine car aficionado but relatively new Jag owner ( 3 so far in a year, lol) so always curious as to maintenance quirks ,common issues, and individual owner experiences .
Well You can't go wrong with basic maintenance and fresh fluids. Always a good place to start.
Your a veteran owner ,I'm sure you know you're car better than anyone. .
I'm a long time tech and fine car aficionado but relatively new Jag owner ( 3 so far in a year, lol) so always curious as to maintenance quirks ,common issues, and individual owner experiences .
Jaguar Forums has been a great resource.
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Yeah my region's been 90-100°+ FH for a week plus, factor in a few long trips w/ heavy stop & go. I'm leaning towards old compromised fluid boiling out. These cars' are awesome once you know the "hot spots" & address them & I've never had an issue that this forum hasn't seen or addressed, it's an invaluable tool for me.
Yeah my region's been 90-100°+ FH for a week plus, factor in a few long trips w/ heavy stop & go. I'm leaning towards old compromised fluid boiling out. These cars' are awesome once you know the "hot spots" & address them & I've never had an issue that this forum hasn't seen or addressed, it's an invaluable tool for me.
I replaced the sway bar links on my 2001 XJ8 VDP today. I really didn't suspect them of being worn out, in fact I had previously examined them and they looked fine..........but I had had previous experience with my wife's Honda CRV producing a knocking/clonking/clunking sound that I couldn't track down and despite the sway bar links looking fine, they were the culprit(s) and replacing them cured the problem. So despite not having any problems with the sway bar links on my Jag I figured that after 19 years it wouldn't hurt to replace them, and Rock Auto has Delphi replacements at just $15 bucks each, $39 for the pair including tax and shipping.
Replacement is extremely easy, simply jack up the car at the front factory jacking point on the side you intend to do first, and support with a jack stand. Remove the front wheel, and the sway bar link is easily visible and accessible.
To relieve any tension on the sway bar, place a floor jack under the lower front suspension arm, then undo the top link nut, (19mm) remove the bottom link nut (16mm, held with a 13mm bolt) and remove the link. Replace with a new link, using a 17mm open end wrench to hold the upper ball joint stem as you tighten the upper link nut. Torque values for the link nuts are 55ft lbs upper and 34ft lbs lower
Release the pressure on the hydraulic support jack and remove.
Replace the wheel.
Remove the jack stand, and let the car down and remove the other hydraulic jack.
The other side is the identical procedure.
Rock Auto has Delphi links for $15 bucks each.
One of the easiest tasks on your XJ8.
Last edited by Carnival Kid; Jul 9, 2020 at 03:14 PM.
I replaced the sway bar links on my 2001 XJ8 VDP today. I really didn't suspect them of being worn out, in fact I had previously examined them and they looked fine..........but I had had previous experience with my wife's Honda CRV producing a knocking/clonking/clunking sound that I couldn't track down and despite the sway bar links looking fine, they were the culprit(s) and replacing them cured the problem. So despite not having any problems with the sway bar links on my Jag I figured that after 19 years it wouldn't hurt to replace them, and Rock Auto has Delphi replacements at just $15 bucks each, $39 for the pair including tax and shipping.
Replacement is extremely easy, simply jack up the car at the front factory jacking point on the side you intend to do first, and support with a jack stand. Remove the front wheel, and the sway bar link is easily visible and accessible.
To relieve any tension on the sway bar, place a floor jack under the lower front suspension arm, then undo the top link nut, (19mm) remove the bottom link nut (16mm, held with a 13mm bolt) and remove the link. Replace with a new link, using a 17mm open end wrench to hold the upper ball joint stem as you tighten the upper link nut. Torque values for the link nuts are 55ft lbs upper and 34ft lbs lower
Release the pressure on the hydraulic support jack and remove.
Replace the wheel.
Remove the jack stand, and let the car down and remove the other hydraulic jack.
Not long after I bought my XJR last year, I took a day off work to detail it thoroughly. When I removed the trunk floor and spare, I discovered surface rust under the battery and fuse box, presumably due to a battery leaking in the past but also probably due to a slight trunk leak. Today, I finished the repair I’d started a few nights ago. My steps included removing everything I could, cleaning the surfaces, removing as much of the rust as possible with a brass wire wheel on my drill and a small brass wire brush, treating the surface with a rust converter, cleaning everything again, priming with Rustoleum rusty metal primer, and painting with Rutoleum white satin paint. The only mishap was that I broke off one of the long battery hold-down bolts so I’ll have to drill it out. Otherwise I’m pleased with the final result.
Thanks; I remembered not long after posting this that I’d forgotten to reconnect the vent hose. That’s an important step with a trunk
-mounted battery!
