Front wheel bearings, rotors and pads.
Spent the last hour pulling apart and cleaning up a frozen caliper..
Gonna have to go back and replace, but there is nowhere to get Jag parts on a Saturday night...

 

What were your symptoms for the bad front wheel bearings?

 

Growling when riding down the road.
Jack the wheel off the ground and shake the tire.
You'll feel play if as bad as this one was..

 

Sometimes when the car has been driven a lot it seems there is a very slight "roar" from the front. It's a very low sound, nobody but me would notice; but I hear it.

The other symptom is that when I come to a stop into a parking place, or stopping after backing out of a parking place, there is a creaking noise. It sounds like suspension to me, but I'm just not sure.

I know this thread is not for in-depth stuff so I apologize; just thinking out loud.

 

Today I quick detailed the Jag, tried to fix the dull trim / seals by using tire cleaner; It didn't work well, and cleaned the windows! Overall, it was more of a detailing day!







- Pilotman

 

Daim,

If you are sure it is not the wire in the hinge area, then it is an internal problem in the limit switch (bad connection of the contacts).

Hard to disassemble the switch itself, a shot of cleaner might solve the problem, although mine started acting up every time again after ~3 months.
I struggled for 1 1/2 year like this, then replaced the switch, problem solved ever since.

E.

 

I've had the entire lock unit out. The switch was checked... It switches on and off (when the striker hits it and co). The hinge wires seem okay, as I can shake and move them as much as I want and nothing happens. The 'trunk open' message though rarely applies... I couldn't find anything in the area to go further on!?

 

Yes, exact same conclusions as mine.
The problem is caused by oxidation on the internal contacts.
They will make contact (you will even get an Ohm reading), but will not transfer loads.
The exact same problem occurs on handle bar switches of Ducati motorbikes, but those can be reached, and cleaned up with some sandpaper.

The Jaguar switch can't be opened up enough, but you can try to spray some contact cleaner through the small rubber orange cap surrounding the pin (if you take the switch out of its plastic holder, you will know what I mean), reaching those contacts.
As mentioned, this did solve my problem several times for some months, but finally I got fed up and replaced the switch.

 

I'll probably just buy a new switch (you mean the one the "lock" strikes and engages in the lock assembly itself, right?)... It is nice to see what is in the trunk/boot when you open it in the dark... Not that some friend punches you in your expensive parts between your legs Have had that done to me before in my old Volvo 960 wagon

 

Yes, the small black 'box' with the wires to it.

 

Received my refurbished rear view interior mirror back today, plan on having it installed & my audio & upgraded this week.

 

Was at junkyard (trying to figure out how to get heated seats) and got a rear seat vent with cigarette ligther. Wiring was already there, so hook-up was easy. Use this outlet to power my wireless FM transmitter- little tidier than using center console lighter. Originally saw these things on the forum & got one on eBay for ~$12. With my Sandisk MP3 player I can now access almost all the CDs I have (only limited by number I've ripped so far). Between this & my Sirius Sportster, I may never listen to broadcast radio again (already disconnected power to antenna so mast doesn't go up every time I turn on the radio). Still haven't gotten the heated seats to work though....

 

Headliner replaced, sunroof re-aligned on track & drain ducts cleaned(to avoid another replacement lol). All interior speakers replaced/upgraded w/ Rockford Fosgate P-165 & Memphis audio ported box w/ two 12" subs & Memphis amp. in the trunk. Still brainstorming as to what head unit I want to go with as I don't want to butcher it up, in case I decide to sale to another purist lol. Sounds really good & clean with the old school factory H.U. though I must say.

 

The factory HU was an Alpine unit. There is nothing to complain about with that unit; Alpine didn't produce garbage. Now, if you want booming bass and drive down the road destroying your ears with the volume, it's probably not the HU for you.

To be honest, with some judicious upgrades (such as the speakers you replaced) and an aux audio input...nothing wrong with that system IMHO.

YMMV, though.

 

Yeah I'm an Alpine zealot as well, they've always been quality & one of the few names that's maintained until the present day. Last X308 I had I left the H.U. stock & basically ran the same set-up I have here w/ no complaints.

Only thing with my current XJ's H.U. is that the little fold down door for the cassette isn't there & it annoys me visually lol. Pedantic ?! I say no, my ex-wife differs lol.


Edit :
I'm going to let this gem stay intact & to solve my issues with the missing cassette door I'm going to use my tape adapter from an old XM sattelite radio kit. I found a cohesive looking Roybens cellphone holder that's efficient either on the dash & windshield(with no sticky adhesive residue or damage when removed) as well as the air vents. I'll just run that to my phone & use some wire ties to stabilize the cord. Seems like a win in the planning stage lol I'll let you know after implementation tonight lol.

 

I replaced the LEDs in the sidemarkers against some normal glass bulbs. Reason: the LEDs are too dull...

 

Double din Kenwood DPX501BT & had zero issues, lighting makes it look scruffy it is in actuality very clean.

 

Got the old clay bar kit out, did the paint work and then gave the old girl a coat of Maguires Tech Wax 2.0

 

Just dropped mine off @ paint to rectify the clear coat damage on my trunk lid.

 

Looks a very neat double-DIN install with the face-plate, surely an upgrade to what you had.
Still decided that I will stick with the OEM, I can't appreciate the different look.