Mechanic is scaring me with quotes requiring removing the engine in order to change the 2 mounts... There must be an better/easier way?

 

Lift the engine slightly or lower the subframe slightly.

I lift the engine but that is my preference. Tilt it over to the side to gain more access and do them one at a time.
Warranty time is 2.3 hours so 2.3 x 1.5 = 3.45. (real world time is warranty time, times time and a half (Warranty X 1.5)).
I would charge 3.5 hours labor.

bob

 

Sorry to 'jump in' on this thread Bob, but I am removing my engine/gearbox complete, as you know that's no mean job. I've got virtually everything off including down-pipes/CATS but how to get at the engine mount nuts is baffling me, I don't seem to have any tools to get in to the tight space? Tried crows foot spanners, all sorts?

 

Remove the fasteners from the bottom (subframe) and leave the mounts on the engine!!!

bob

 

Exactly what I would do. Undo the torx screws underneath and done.

 

You know, this is why I love the Forum! The obvious isn't always ..well..obvious. Sometimes it just takes a simple question to get a simple answer that will save hours of head scratching. Thanks to both Bob and Daim for this.

 

Remove the engine to change the mounts? I bet he change the oil filter through the tail pipe too! Martha fawker people are tools

 

Lolz, so tilting up one side at a time creates sufficient gap to remove mounts?

 

I can't say to the driver's side, since that seems to be more complicated to reach based on my readings, but all I've seen suggest that yes, the passenger side at least, is that easy.

 

I jack up the engine with both mounts unbolts from the frame as high as the engine will go. you do need to unbolt the rack from the frame to remove driver side mount(don't unbolt from the column) and some models the studs are obnoxiously too long so you either unbolt the frame (don't remove the bolts) just lowered from the body. or thread a nut over the studs, cut them down a 1/4" and chamfer and run the nuts back off to clean the threads and viola' they slide right in

 

Thanks - I've already had them changed and mentioned the aforementioned comments to the mechanic - the mechanic ended up removing the rack and pinion to access them from below - no idea of this was the ideal method, but it left me with a misaligned steering wheel (which they said they will try to correct, but requires yet another service appointment...)

 

I've already thanked those advising me to remove the Torx bolts from under the car, and it worked a treat (I was removing the engine anyway for a number of reasons). Once removed, the engine and box flew out, now after some detailing and a different gearbox, it's all ready to drop back in... anything I should know before I fit it back in this weekend?