Who makes these wheels?
Hi princemarko,
I'm not a big fan of those wheels either - they remind me of something you'd put on a Cadillac Escalade to "pimp it out." But I'm more of a purist too, so you'll have to take that into account. My view is only 1 seven-billionth of the world's opinion...

Cheers,
Don
No idea on the brand sorry, but they look like 20's, and that's not the factory ride height either
Personally, I'm not a fan of the chrome, but I do like the style. Nice big face, and bigger than stock in both diameter and width. Stock wheels are far too narrow IMHO
Personally, I'm not a fan of the chrome, but I do like the style. Nice big face, and bigger than stock in both diameter and width. Stock wheels are far too narrow IMHO
I prefer my asteroids but they are corroding and replacements cost a fortune.
So annoyed by the lack of options. Would like lightweight ones though
So annoyed by the lack of options. Would like lightweight ones though
Trending Topics
Asteroids may be my favorite wheels on an X308. Have you considered having yours refinished, or doing it yourself?
I refinished one of the Polaris wheels on our X350 with two coats of Rust-Oleum High Performance Wheel Custom Shop spray paint:
RUST-OLEUM WheelSteel, Metallic, 11 oz - G1661493 at Zoro
Followed by two light coats and one wet coat of clearcoat from Automotive TouchUp:
Spray Paint Clearcoat | Aerosol Touch Up | AutomotiveTouchup
The results were so good that even I would have to look closely to tell which wheel I refinished.
Cheers,
Don
Far from a purist and still don't like them.
The perfect wheel would be 16x8 asteroids. Unfortunately, they are 18x8.
What you might want to do is pickup a second set of asteroids and refurbish
them. Then sell the ones you already have.
The perfect wheel would be 16x8 asteroids. Unfortunately, they are 18x8.
What you might want to do is pickup a second set of asteroids and refurbish
them. Then sell the ones you already have.
Nice wheels, but they're just too big for the car, like 20's?
Make the Jag look cheap.
Make the Jag look cheap.
Asteroids may be my favorite wheels on an X308. Have you considered having yours refinished, or doing it yourself?
I refinished one of the Polaris wheels on our X350 with two coats of Rust-Oleum High Performance Wheel Custom Shop spray paint:
RUST-OLEUM WheelSteel, Metallic, 11 oz - G1661493 at Zoro
Followed by two light coats and one wet coat of clearcoat from Automotive TouchUp:
Spray Paint Clearcoat | Aerosol Touch Up | AutomotiveTouchup
The results were so good that even I would have to look closely to tell which wheel I refinished.
Cheers,
Don
I refinished one of the Polaris wheels on our X350 with two coats of Rust-Oleum High Performance Wheel Custom Shop spray paint:
RUST-OLEUM WheelSteel, Metallic, 11 oz - G1661493 at Zoro
Followed by two light coats and one wet coat of clearcoat from Automotive TouchUp:
Spray Paint Clearcoat | Aerosol Touch Up | AutomotiveTouchup
The results were so good that even I would have to look closely to tell which wheel I refinished.
Cheers,
Don
This looks like excellent info and it is much appreciated, Sir.
Will definitely try this.
Thank you once again.
Cheers,
Hi Forcedair1,
The secret of success is surface preparation. Here are the steps I took:
1. Thoroughly wash and degrease the entire wheel, inside and out, with soapy and water and tar remover. Be especially thorough in the lug nut wells - any dirt left in them can be blown out by the spray paint can, only to land on your fresh paint and ruin the surface.
2. Smooth any curb rash with a file and progressive sanding with 180, 220 and 320 grits. Then lightly sand the entire face surface of the wheel with 320 grit to give the new paint a good key to bond to.
3. Wipe down the wheel with prepping solvent / grease remover.
4. Mask the inside of the wheel to prevent overspray unless you really want to paint it the face color.
5. Check the directions on the spray paint cans and don't paint if the temperature is too low or the humidity is too high.
6. Spray two light coats of the silver paint, three if necessary to fully cover the wheel.
7. If you spray the clearcoat before the silver has cured, some of the metal flakes will be drawn up into the clearcoat, creating a deeper 3-dimensional appearance to the finish which looks nice, but doesn't match the flatter look of the factory wheels. If you're going to paint all four wheels, you can do it this way and clearcoat the wheels within 30 minutes or less of applying the last coat of silver. If you're refinishing only one or two wheels, let the silver dry overnight before applying the clearcoat.
8. Follow the instructions on the can of clearcoat. I applied two light coats about 15 minutes apart (I think - check the instructions), then a topcoat that was wet enough to flow out nice and smooth, but not so wet that it had any drips or runs. This produces a level of gloss similar to the factory wheels. If you apply too much clearcoat, your wheel will be noticeably glossier than the factory wheels.
I hope this info is helpful. Let us know how it goes.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Mar 8, 2015 at 09:07 PM.
Hi Forcedair1,
The secret of success is surface preparation. Here are the steps I took:
1. Thoroughly wash and degrease the entire wheel, inside and out, with soapy and water and tar remover. Be especially thorough in the lug nut wells - any dirt left in them can be blown out by the spray paint can, only to land on your fresh paint and ruin the surface.
2. Smooth any curb rash with a file and progressive sanding with 180, 220 and 320 grits. Then lightly sand the entire face surface of the wheel with 320 grit to give the new paint a good key to bond to.
3. Wipe down the wheel with prepping solvent / grease remover.
4. Mask the inside of the wheel to prevent overspray unless you really want to paint it the face color.
5. Check the directions on the spray paint cans and don't paint if the temperature is too low or the humidity is too high.
6. Spray two light coats of the silver paint, three if necessary to fully cover the wheel.
7. If you spray the clearcoat before the silver has cured, some of the metal flakes will be drawn up into the clearcoat, creating a deeper 3-dimensional appearance to the finish which looks nice, but doesn't match the flatter look of the factory wheels. If you're going to paint all four wheels, you can do it this way and clearcoat the wheels within 30 minutes or less of applying the last coat of silver. If you're refinishing only one or two wheels, let the silver dry overnight before clearcoating it.
8. Follow the instructions on the can of clearcoat. I applied two light coats about 15 minutes apart (I think - check the instructions), then a topcoat that was wet enough to flow out nice and smooth, but not so wet that it had any drips or runs. This produces a level of gloss similar to the factory wheels. If you apply too much clearcoat, your wheel will be noticeably glossier than the factory wheels.
I hope this info is helpful. Let us know how it goes.
Cheers,
Don
The secret of success is surface preparation. Here are the steps I took:
1. Thoroughly wash and degrease the entire wheel, inside and out, with soapy and water and tar remover. Be especially thorough in the lug nut wells - any dirt left in them can be blown out by the spray paint can, only to land on your fresh paint and ruin the surface.
2. Smooth any curb rash with a file and progressive sanding with 180, 220 and 320 grits. Then lightly sand the entire face surface of the wheel with 320 grit to give the new paint a good key to bond to.
3. Wipe down the wheel with prepping solvent / grease remover.
4. Mask the inside of the wheel to prevent overspray unless you really want to paint it the face color.
5. Check the directions on the spray paint cans and don't paint if the temperature is too low or the humidity is too high.
6. Spray two light coats of the silver paint, three if necessary to fully cover the wheel.
7. If you spray the clearcoat before the silver has cured, some of the metal flakes will be drawn up into the clearcoat, creating a deeper 3-dimensional appearance to the finish which looks nice, but doesn't match the flatter look of the factory wheels. If you're going to paint all four wheels, you can do it this way and clearcoat the wheels within 30 minutes or less of applying the last coat of silver. If you're refinishing only one or two wheels, let the silver dry overnight before clearcoating it.
8. Follow the instructions on the can of clearcoat. I applied two light coats about 15 minutes apart (I think - check the instructions), then a topcoat that was wet enough to flow out nice and smooth, but not so wet that it had any drips or runs. This produces a level of gloss similar to the factory wheels. If you apply too much clearcoat, your wheel will be noticeably glossier than the factory wheels.
I hope this info is helpful. Let us know how it goes.
Cheers,
Don
Would you by any chance have a picture of your finished wheel?
Thank you.
Cheers,
I don't have a closeup but it's the front right wheel visible in this photo. Over the winter our left rear wheel was slightly curbed so I need to refinish it. I'll try to post photos of the entire procedure.
Cheers,
Don
Thanks, Don.
Than you, Grandell.
Cheers,
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hunter34
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
19
Sep 14, 2022 11:09 PM
WTB[NorthEast]: X-Type Sport Wheels
Whitnessmouse
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade or Buy Classifieds
0
Sep 4, 2015 11:09 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)










