Anyone know who makes these wheels? Opinion on its looks also?
Hi princemarko,
I'm not a big fan of those wheels either - they remind me of something you'd put on a Cadillac Escalade to "pimp it out." But I'm more of a purist too, so you'll have to take that into account. My view is only 1 seven-billionth of the world's opinion...
No idea on the brand sorry, but they look like 20's, and that's not the factory ride height either
Personally, I'm not a fan of the chrome, but I do like the style. Nice big face, and bigger than stock in both diameter and width. Stock wheels are far too narrow IMHO
I have similar problem with my XJR.
This looks like excellent info and it is much appreciated, Sir.
Will definitely try this.
Thank you once again.
Hi Forcedair1,
The secret of success is surface preparation. Here are the steps I took:
1. Thoroughly wash and degrease the entire wheel, inside and out, with soapy and water and tar remover. Be especially thorough in the lug nut wells - any dirt left in them can be blown out by the spray paint can, only to land on your fresh paint and ruin the surface.
2. Smooth any curb rash with a file and progressive sanding with 180, 220 and 320 grits. Then lightly sand the entire face surface of the wheel with 320 grit to give the new paint a good key to bond to.
3. Wipe down the wheel with prepping solvent / grease remover.
4. Mask the inside of the wheel to prevent overspray unless you really want to paint it the face color.
5. Check the directions on the spray paint cans and don't paint if the temperature is too low or the humidity is too high.
6. Spray two light coats of the silver paint, three if necessary to fully cover the wheel.
7. If you spray the clearcoat before the silver has cured, some of the metal flakes will be drawn up into the clearcoat, creating a deeper 3-dimensional appearance to the finish which looks nice, but doesn't match the flatter look of the factory wheels. If you're going to paint all four wheels, you can do it this way and clearcoat the wheels within 30 minutes or less of applying the last coat of silver. If you're refinishing only one or two wheels, let the silver dry overnight before applying the clearcoat.
8. Follow the instructions on the can of clearcoat. I applied two light coats about 15 minutes apart (I think - check the instructions), then a topcoat that was wet enough to flow out nice and smooth, but not so wet that it had any drips or runs. This produces a level of gloss similar to the factory wheels. If you apply too much clearcoat, your wheel will be noticeably glossier than the factory wheels.
I hope this info is helpful. Let us know how it goes.
The secret of success is surface preparation. Here are the steps I took:
1. Thoroughly wash and degrease the entire wheel, inside and out, with soapy and water and tar remover. Be especially thorough in the lug nut wells - any dirt left in them can be blown out by the spray paint can, only to land on your fresh paint and ruin the surface.
2. Smooth any curb rash with a file and progressive sanding with 180, 220 and 320 grits. Then lightly sand the entire face surface of the wheel with 320 grit to give the new paint a good key to bond to.
3. Wipe down the wheel with prepping solvent / grease remover.
4. Mask the inside of the wheel to prevent overspray unless you really want to paint it the face color.
5. Check the directions on the spray paint cans and don't paint if the temperature is too low or the humidity is too high.
6. Spray two light coats of the silver paint, three if necessary to fully cover the wheel.
7. If you spray the clearcoat before the silver has cured, some of the metal flakes will be drawn up into the clearcoat, creating a deeper 3-dimensional appearance to the finish which looks nice, but doesn't match the flatter look of the factory wheels. If you're going to paint all four wheels, you can do it this way and clearcoat the wheels within 30 minutes or less of applying the last coat of silver. If you're refinishing only one or two wheels, let the silver dry overnight before clearcoating it.
8. Follow the instructions on the can of clearcoat. I applied two light coats about 15 minutes apart (I think - check the instructions), then a topcoat that was wet enough to flow out nice and smooth, but not so wet that it had any drips or runs. This produces a level of gloss similar to the factory wheels. If you apply too much clearcoat, your wheel will be noticeably glossier than the factory wheels.
I hope this info is helpful. Let us know how it goes.
Cheers,
Don
Great info!
Would you by any chance have a picture of your finished wheel?
Would you by any chance have a picture of your finished wheel?
I don't have a closeup but it's the front right wheel visible in this photo. Over the winter our left rear wheel was slightly curbed so I need to refinish it. I'll try to post photos of the entire procedure.
I don't have a closeup but it's the front right wheel visible in this photo. Over the winter our left rear wheel was slightly curbed so I need to refinish it. I'll try to post photos of the entire procedure.