I have got a 2001 jaguar xj8L (127,000 miles) for free basically and it doesn't start. First thing i checked was the battery, it has a new battery previous owner still had the receipt.
Last owner said it sat for a year or so but said the reason he stopped driving it was because it had some problem and wouldnt start (and was shifting rough) then got it towed home and the towing company broke the little push lever to put it in to neutral. Also the shift lever feels real free but doesnt leave out of park. The car cranks strong and doesnt sound like anything is wrong but wont turn over / maybe its not in park? I cant even shift it into neutral to see if that works. Shouldnt it still shift ?
Someone suggested it was the shifter cable? Also suggested shifter solenoid? Or the transmission drum? Or the fuel pump?
Ive tried to listen foe the fuel pump noise but dont really know. Ive got under the car and looked at the end of the transmission cable and cant tell if it was in park or not. 4

I can post a video of the shift knob play and what it sounds like when i crank it over and what the end of the shifter cable looks like. below

 

well i guess i cant upload videos?

 

Since you can crank the engine, the shifter is in either park or neutral (if not, it wouldn't even crank). The first thing I would check, since it was sitting for rather long, is the fuel pump. Pull the pump relay out and, using a short piece of wire with standard spade terminals at each wire end, bridge the relay pin sockets shown in red on the attached drawing. The pump relay is the one marked as "Fuel pump relay 1" (you don't have the "Fuel pump relay 2" as your engine is not supercharged). You don't need to switch the ignition "on" for this test. Note whether there is a spark as you plug the bridging wire in. Then listen for the pump sound at the fuel filler neck (push the flap down with a long screwdriver). If you have spark when plugging in the bridging wire but don't hear any humming/buzzing sound at the filler neck, disconnect the bridging wire immediately as this would mean that the pump is seized and is drawing excessive current which would cause it to heat-up if it is kept under power for too long.

 

Welcome to the jaguar forum youngowner....we would greatly appreciate it if you would introduce yourself and your Jag in the New Members Forum (site requirement) and it only takes a minute depending on how detailed you wish to be?.... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/

If you are using your phone, you can't post videos here that way...so off to the puter.

For the no start, along with what MS has nicely detailed, you can check the crank positioning sensor (CPS). The sensor itself and/or the pinning could be corrupted.

Here's a site you'll want to bookmark... JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource ...its done by a site member who has gathered much information and combined it to one source. Also, you can check TSB's and Quick How To's by prompting either link in my signature.

Please be sure to keep subject matter in one thread for others to reference also. The search at the top right is quite useful and to help dial in your search for your Jag, use X308 at the end of your inquiry, for this is your model and will save you weeding through other models that don't pertain to yours.

We look forward to assisting you with this and remember, a question not asked,....cannot be answered....no matter how simple it may seem.

 

Where can i get the best and cheapest fuel pumps for my model?

 

You can get a chinese pump for about $15, but I would go with a Delphi, available from many sources. You only need one, and don't forget the fuel filter near the left rear wheel.

 

Yes, +1 to RJ's recommendation or go OEM with Denso. With either you stand the best chance of not having to pull the tank twice (a process not highly touted). If your pump is bad, be sure to remove your fuel lines first (there's instructions in the link I gave earlier), you don't want to kink them or your screwed.

 

Hi youngowner,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums. It's great to have you with us.

Just because the battery is new does not mean that it is properly charged. If the voltage while cranking falls much below 11 volts, the Engine Control Module (ECM) will not trigger the ignition to fire. If you have a charger, you might try giving the battery a good overnight recharge.

Another possibility is fuel contaminated by water, either from condensation forming within the tank, or rainwater pooling around the fuel filler neck because the drain tube in the rubber filler neck gaiter or boot is clogged with leaves, seeds, etc. (very common).

If you follow M. Stojanovic's instructions and determine that the fuel pump will run, it would be worth disconnecting the fuel hose from the fuel rail in the engine bay, directing the hose into a suitable catch container, and running the pump to catch some fuel. Allow the fuel to decant for a couple of hours and look for a line where water and gasoline have separated.

Cheers,

Don

 

 

If the microswitch is compromised, ..yes.

 

Hi youngowner,

Have you tried starting with the gearshift lever in Neutral?

Don

 

 

 

 

Your J-gate assembly is way too loose...I seriously suspect some linkage damage.
You may need this pdf.... http://jagrepair.com/images/Training...des/201_SG.pdf ...to try to release your shifter manually, read pages 82 & 83. Again, this is from the link I provided earlier for jagrepair.com

 

Close the door, turn the key to position II (ON) without cranking the engine, and wait for all beeps to quiet down. Now press and release the brake pedal repeatedly. You should hear a faint click in the J-gate as the gearshift interlock solenoid operates. If you don't hear a click, the interlock solenoid is not operating. This could be due to the rough treatment your J-gate received.

The circuit for the interlock is complex, and off the top of my head, involves the Engine Control Module (ECM), Instrument Pack (IP), and Body Processor Module (BPM). But it all starts with the brake switch, so one basic test is to see if your brake lights are operating. If not, your brake switch is the prime suspect.

Cheers,

Don

 

i have unscrewed the threaded bolt and looked down the whole and see a broken cylinder thing and broken off plastic at the bottom so this means my gearshift interlock solenoid is completely broken ( and might be the reason i cant take it out of park )

 

And all my rear brake lights work but when i turn on the rear fog lights sometimes i see a message about the rear lights

 

Thanks for your updates, this helps us...usually the fog light message is a simple burned out bulb because the circuit isn't able to complete its loop.